Official 1HD-T 1HD-FT 1HD-FTE and 1HZ BEB thread

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Dusten said:
Is it because of the fipg?
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I don’t know why people say ya hard to remove?

I first start by using a razor blade and go around. I push it between in the middle of the Fipg and work m way all around being carfull not to scratch any surface. Then once I’m done going around. I’ll use a metal paint scraper and work my way around until the oil pan comes off. It’s only time consuming and messy because oil drips on you. Took me about an hour to get the oil pan out. There’s lots of room. You cold also unbolt the transmission brackets to give you more room.

I think next time I’ll try and cut the fipg with some fishing line instead of razor blade.
 
I would probably just drive a plastic scraper in there and pop it off. But I am not delicate
 
Dusten said:
I would probably just drive a plastic scraper in there and pop it off. But I am not delicate
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I broke a tool similar to the one linked by cgmud while removing the pan of my 1fzfe on a stand. FIPG less than a year old.

FIPG bonds pretty well, difficult access, and not much space to work a blade between pan and block.

I've removed pans with the engine in the truck on two cruisers with varying degree of difficulty, and varying amounts of damage to the pan. Bent corners a little prying stuff apart.

Like many things on these trucks YMMV
 
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I picked up an 80 with the 1HD-FT last year and although I know the FT is supposed to not have BEB issues I wanted to find out for sure and replace them since it’s at 294k km. I had no idea what size to order so I dropped the pan to find out. In hindsight, I wish I ordered a bunch of bearings in various sizes as they’re cheap enough and it would have been nice to not do this job twice.

I cracked open 1 and 6 to validate that the bearings are the size I expect and to see the wear. My crank journals are all “2’s”. Rods are 1’s and 2’s. So I need a mix of 3’s and 4’s.

The wear seems fine to me for 294k. Probably just engine start wear - before the oil pressure builds up. Crank journals were nice.

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I know most of this is relevant more to turbo motors but with a basic 1hz I'm presuming it can happen too. Is the process for doing BEB's on a normal 1hz the same? I have zero information about whether my 80's 1hz has ever had bottom end work done.
 
Got an oil analysis back from Blackstone with a bit higher than normal lead in it, so I went ahead and did the BEB yesterday. I've never felt older after doing that job without a lift...

160k km on the clock, no history on if the bearings have been done. They look like OEM ones though.

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I have had a "tick" on this truck since the day I got it. I have not had a chance to fire it up yet, as I still need to clean and reseat the oil pan. As you can see the bearings are starting to wear, but not bad at all. The con rod also looks flawless.

I replaced with ACL duraglide STD size from Radd cruisers, and all new bolts.
 
Thank you for all the info and expertise in this threat, my current situation and questions below:

A) I have a 78KM 1992 HDJ81 thats going in for LRA replacement gas tank with new fuel lines to be able to run B100. While I am at it going to do preventative maintenance (timing belt/water pump/tensioner etc) and have decided to get the BEBs done.
  • I think BEBs could be the cause of a tick that started after I incorrectly installed a 3in exhaust (My own fault). Exhaust was resting on front chassis cross-member and caused nasty vibration for a day until corrected.
  • Could nasty vibration have caused premature wear of a BEB?

B) What is the consensus on types of bearings to go with?
  1. OEM ? (link to purchase would be great if anyone has it)
  2. ACL std ?
  3. ACL duraglide (better coating?)

Thank you in advance for all the answers, and happy trucking !
 
GreenMachines said:
Thank you for all the info and expertise in this threat, my current situation and questions below:

A) I have a 78KM 1992 HDJ81 thats going in for LRA replacement gas tank with new fuel lines to be able to run B100. While I am at it going to do preventative maintenance (timing belt/water pump/tensioner etc) and have decided to get the BEBs done.
  • I think BEBs could be the cause of a tick that started after I incorrectly installed a 3in exhaust (My own fault). Exhaust was resting on front chassis cross-member and caused nasty vibration for a day until corrected.
  • Could nasty vibration have caused premature wear of a BEB?

B) What is the consensus on types of bearings to go with?
  1. OEM ? (link to purchase would be great if anyone has it)
  2. ACL std ?
  3. ACL duraglide (better coating?)

Thank you in advance for all the answers, and happy trucking !
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Hey, I personally don't think the exhaust could have been an issue, but I'm also not positive what the "tick" is like. Your vehicle is still pretty low miles, but I agree I would do the preventative maintenance you've outlined just considering age. BEBs are a great peace of mind to do. I can't speak too much on the type to choose, but I personally made the decision to go Taiho. Straight from Partsouq, too, it's hard to beat: CON ROD BEARING R707ASTD | Taiho Parts | PartSouq
 
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cgmud said:
Hey, I personally don't think the exhaust could have been an issue, but I'm also not positive what the "tick" is like. Your vehicle is still pretty low miles, but I agree I would do the preventative maintenance you've outlined just considering age. BEBs are a great piece of mind to do. I can't speak too much on the type to choose, but I personally made the decision to go Taiho. Straight from Partsouq, too, it's hard to beat: CON ROD BEARING R707ASTD | Taiho Parts | PartSouq
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Thank you cgmud. Was there anything in particular that made you go with Taiho ?
 
GreenMachines said:
Thank you for all the info and expertise in this threat, my current situation and questions below:

A) I have a 78KM 1992 HDJ81 thats going in for LRA replacement gas tank with new fuel lines to be able to run B100. While I am at it going to do preventative maintenance (timing belt/water pump/tensioner etc) and have decided to get the BEBs done.
  • I think BEBs could be the cause of a tick that started after I incorrectly installed a 3in exhaust (My own fault). Exhaust was resting on front chassis cross-member and caused nasty vibration for a day until corrected.
  • Could nasty vibration have caused premature wear of a BEB?

B) What is the consensus on types of bearings to go with?
  1. OEM ? (link to purchase would be great if anyone has it)
  2. ACL std ?
  3. ACL duraglide (better coating?)

Thank you in advance for all the answers, and happy trucking !
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No your exhaust wouldn't wear the beb's


If you have a tick post exhaust install i suggest you check for exhaust leaks
 
On my HDJ81 equipped with the 1-HDT, the PO had the BEBs done (approx 60k KMS ago), what is the consensus on changing them? Once and done or once and continue to inspect/replace? Thanks.
 
duece71 said:
On my HDJ81 equipped with the 1-HDT, the PO had the BEBs done (approx 60k KMS ago), what is the consensus on changing them? Once and done or once and continue to inspect/replace? Thanks.
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I think it culminates into whatever helps your peace of mind. There won’t be a consensus. Every 100K if you’re concerned is probably the primary approach of the community.
 
duece71 said:
On my HDJ81 equipped with the 1-HDT, the PO had the BEBs done (approx 60k KMS ago), what is the consensus on changing them? Once and done or once and continue to inspect/replace? Thanks.
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I would start sending the oil to Blackstone every 10,000 km's. If you see increased levels of bearing material in the oil as you approach the 100km mark then there is your answer. There doesn't seem to be a consensus. Some people say one and done, others say every 100,000 kilometers.
 
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