3fe oil pan removal issues (1 Viewer)

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Let me start off by saying what ever this pan was attached with I need to find since I am fairly sure I could seal anything permanently with it. Here is the break down 1990 FJ62 with a 3fe. Has a few oil leaks that were starting to get a little bad. I tracked down a leak on the front crank, side engine gasket and rear of the oil pan (at least that was where I hoped it was and not rear main).

Currently, the truck is on jack stands with the front tires off to give me enough space to pull the pan. I have spent 4 hours on it between Friday and today. I unbolted every bolt. I have heated the gasket, chiseled it away and wedged a screw driver into the driver side and managed to free it. It is still VERY well bonded on the passenger side and there is little to no access on that side to the gasket due to the hardlines. There is a 3" or so free spot behind the starter where I should be able to hit a gasket with the chisel/screwdriver combo, but every time I try I get a metal on metal sound. The PO did not like to clean off oil so I am battling a decent coating everywhere (which has been fun with the torch).

Does anyone have any good tips on getting the pan off? I'm all ears at this point.
 
you should not be using heat!

try using a bottle jack against the frame rail with a 2x4 on the oil pan side to distribute the load. just put some preasure on it and leave it, put alittle more preasure on it leave it. Be patient.
 
Bottle jack trick as described above made it easy for me. Didn't even try to pry it off. Just hooked up the bottle jack, cranked a little, and it popped right off.

Another tip that was shared with me. Your cork gasket is going to be STUCK to the pan. Get a wire brush drill bit and get it off of there. Makes it eay. Or, you could spend a few hours scraping it off!
 
Thanks for the replies. I read about the bottle jack once in my search but it wasn't very clear. Sorry if this seems obvious, but do you use the bottle jack to put pressure on the side of the pan? I'm just having some trouble picturing it.

*Edit*

"Get your OEM bottle jack and 2ft piece of scrap 2x4. Place the 2x4 along the oil pan to spread the load. find a spot against the frame for the jack and extend the jack into the 2x4 try and get this as close to the bottom of the pan as possible. Apply force to the pan slowly and whack the 2x4 with a hammer and the pan will come off just take your time. having another set of hands to help you get started with the jack and 2x4 is a great help but not required."
 
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Wedge jack between frame and oil pan. Jack will be sideways.
2x4 against oil pan to protect it from denting under pressure.
 
Wedge jack between frame and oil pan. Jack will be sideways.
2x4 against oil pan to protect it from denting under pressure.

This is the way to go...worked for me as well. Easy peezy.
 
Concur. Lots of old posts on the same subject. Wait until you try and put the new gasket on! This will seem easy in comparison. As I recall, this is my second go round and I can't get away with doing it right with gasket #1. I know right now I just ordered #2. Need an extra set of hands and more patience.

I have heard mention of alignment studs or longer bolts to just get it in position before trying to get in the shorter bolts. I like the idea of the studs. That's what I will attempt this weekend when I can get back on task. Any other tricks for an "easy" install ?
 
I have heard mention of alignment studs or longer bolts to just get it in position before trying to get in the shorter bolts. I like the idea of the studs. That's what I will attempt this weekend when I can get back on task. Any other tricks for an "easy" install ?

Felpro makes plastic studs that hold the gasket in place. Search and you'll find them.
 
Found them...."Fel-Pro SnapUps™"....comes in three sizes, 5/16", 6mm, 8mm.


Advance Auto (and others) have them, $6.29. Believe ours will be the 6mm size but will confirm before acquiring (Part No. ES 72864). Thanks for the info.
Fel-Pro Snap-Ups.JPG
 
Success! 2 hours later the pan is off. I did manage to launch the jack and the 2x3 three times. I know it should not need to be mentioned but stay away from under it and jack it up from as far off to the side as you can.

Now I just need to scrape it down and hunt down a set of those fel-pro studs. I assume the 6mm is what I am after, but I'll take one in to check.
 
Felpro makes plastic studs that hold the gasket in place. Search and you'll find them.

They worked great, didn't they? I still have them if you ever need to use them.

I understand "some" oil pan gasket kits from Fel-pro come with these but since I'd recommend only using a one piece Toyota oil pan gasket, we're stuck with buying them.
 
Any tricks to getting the front and rear "hoop" of the gasket off? They are still on the engine and I can't find a good angle to get a chisel or scraper in there. I'm headed to NAPA after work tomorrow for some other parts and thought maybe they might have something to spray on there to loosen them up a bit. Sorry for all the noob-ish questions. I have not encountered a gasket as much fun as this before and I've had a few older Toyotas (81 pickup and 88 4runner)
 
I have always used a flat head screw driver with the help of brake parts cleaner to free it up.
 
rather than start a new thread im bumping this one..

i just got my 62 on the road and found a leak at my skidplate on the oe oil pan, i had just reinstalled it with a new gasket and toyota goo....

well i cant get that sucker off.. currently trying the jack method, any other ideas?

D2303394-21B9-46A7-A229-2E3F2C3D6B74.JPG
 
You won’t need any other ideas. What you are doing will work.
 
rather than start a new thread im bumping this one..

i just got my 62 on the road and found a leak at my skidplate on the oe oil pan, i had just reinstalled it with a new gasket and toyota goo....

well i cant get that sucker off.. currently trying the jack method, any other ideas?

Thats the way to do it. you can apply some heat around the gasket and wedge a paint scraper in there to break it free.
 
Place the jack so it presses (on the wood) as low down on the pan as you can get it.
The pan isn’t going to push off sideways when it breaks free it’s seal, the bottom will rock away. You want to pivot the bottom, not push the entire pan sideways.
 

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