Builds Build #2 - 45 Extended Cab, 80 Frame, iForce 5.7 3UR (2 Viewers)

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Got the exhaust pretty much done today. Very tedious work... Had to lower the cab into the body, take springs out, and install driveshafts multiple times to check clearances. All is well though, no binding anywhere, even at full bump.

I started out by cutting the factory exhaust off the flanges so I could reuse them -

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The hardest part was the beginning because I wanted to reuse the factory catalytic converters and o2 sensors, but it was extremely tight -

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Progress -

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At this point, I knew the muffler could only go one place, so I temporarily secured it and made the front legs merge in front of it -

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Routing complete -

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The back is extremely tight at well. I believe the factory exhaust on an 80 goes over the rear crossmembers. I didn't have room under the bed, so I had to wrap up and over the rear axle.

This is at full stuff, sitting on the bumps -

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Almost done... Need to install o2 bungs, finish welding all seams, put in 3 hangars. Another huge project about complete though.
 
I figure a few people will ask what the side cutout is for... I want the exhaust to be very quiet, but I thought it would be cool to have it loud if I wanted.

I purchased a boost-actuated exhaust cutout (I took the diaphragm off to make it fully manual cable operated)-

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I made a cutout pipe with some extra pieces -

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Now I can have redneck mode with the pull of a dash knob -

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I figure this is an appropriate knob... Self explanatory -

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Is the cut out going to tie back into the tail pipe behind the muffler? Very nice work
 
Great Build! Your bedsides and tailgate turned out awesome.

I like that you took off the actuator and use the pull cable with the perfect symbol.
Does you know what the cable / symbol is called? Gives me ideas for my build.
 
Is the cut out going to tie back into the tail pipe behind the muffler? Very nice work
That's a great idea, and honestly I hadn't thought of that. They typically just dump out at the valve. It depends on how it sounds, I suppose. If it's too harsh and sounds like an exhaust leak, I'll tie it back in.
 
I took the front springs out and the the frame lower all they way to check clearance. The part circled in red is the oil filter/oil cooler/pressure relief valve. It did make contact with the front diff at full bump, so I knew I had to relocate it.

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I thought about going with an aftermarket oil filter relocation kit, but I couldn't find one with a pressure relief valve build in, and I liked the idea of the OEM oil cooler, so I just decided to move this one.

Here is the engine with the piece removed... plenty of clearance everywhere now

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Making a template to transfer to 3/8 plate

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Using center punches to mark the bolt holes

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Test fitting

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Welded on -10 AN bungs

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And the same, except for aluminum

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All set to make some hoses with AN fittings now.
hey @UZJ40 , was going back through your build regarding your oil filter housing relocation. how did this end up? its a bit different to what I have going on with my 1uz, but I want to go a similar route as you did. how did you seal the plate to the block, o ring? Also, did you use flex pressure line or hard ally lines?
 
Great Build! Your bedsides and tailgate turned out awesome.

I like that you took off the actuator and use the pull cable with the perfect symbol.
Does you know what the cable / symbol is called? Gives me ideas for my build.

Thanks! As noted above, it is a factory chock knob.

hey @UZJ40 , was going back through your build regarding your oil filter housing relocation. how did this end up? its a bit different to what I have going on with my 1uz, but I want to go a similar route as you did. how did you seal the plate to the block, o ring? Also, did you use flex pressure line or hard ally lines?

I bought new OEM O-rings to mount the plate to the block, and the other side has the -AN fittings. I used high pressure hydraulic hose, which is way overkill, but I used it because I could make the lines myself.
 
Busy couple weeks... Road trip to Kentucky and back, then King of the Hammers for a week. Hopefully back for a while though.

I've been on the prowl for some factory bed side hooks. I strolled through my favorite junkyard and found an old Toyota bed that was being used as a wheel storage bin.

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After moving about 50 wheels, I had access to all 6 hooks -

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Getting them home and cleaned up -

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Two welded on tail gate. Two more will go on each side of the bed -

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Busy couple weeks... Road trip to Kentucky and back, then King of the Hammers for a week. Hopefully back for a while though.

I've been on the prowl for some factory bed side hooks. I strolled through my favorite junkyard and found an old Toyota bed that was being used as a wheel storage bin.

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After moving about 50 wheels, I had access to all 6 hooks -

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Getting them home and cleaned up -

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Two welded on tail gate. Two more will go on each side of the bed -

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Hate to side track the thread, but KOH pics etc should be in order?! :D
 
Quick update... haven't done too much in the past month, that's picture-worthy anyway. I did get the floor, rear bench, and transmission tunnel complete though, which feels really nice.

Cardboard templates -

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Transmission tunnel... Might be the longest FJ40 tunnel ever! Again, it has to be long because the centered rear output of the Tundra transfer case sits much higher than a Land Cruiser passenger side front and rear drop. I basically cut the OEM tunnel in half and lengthened it about 18".

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I finished up the bed/tailgate rail end caps as well -

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I picked up a lathe in Souther CA last weekend. It was quite the day. We had to take my skid steer down to load it up. Ended up being a lot of work but I'm excited to use it. I've never had one before and am looking forward to learning. It's a 1964 Logan, US made. Spent about 10 hours cleaning it up and she runs like butter now.

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Shop is getting full!!

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Looking awesome man! Know what you mean on the tunnel, mine is 48" long to accommodate the 4runner tcase. How are your drive angles looking?
 
Looking awesome man! Know what you mean on the tunnel, mine is 48" long to accommodate the 4runner tcase. How are your drive angles looking?
Driveline angles are no issue here... 112" wheelbase. Rear driveshaft is 38" long.

Thank you!
 
Much like Mr @Tank5 , I bought 2 Toyota Motors tool boxes a couple years ago. I've been trying to figure out something to do with them. I thought it would be cool to have one mounted in the bed with a small padlock on it.

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Measuring and drilling -

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Made a small template so I could tack the elevator bolts in place -

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Threaded hand knobs installed... No tools required to install/remove -

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Installed. With the padlock on, you'll need a key to open/remove it -

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I picked up a lathe in Souther CA last weekend. It was quite the day. We had to take my skid steer down to load it up. Ended up being a lot of work but I'm excited to use it. I've never had one before and am looking forward to learning. It's a 1964 Logan, US made. Spent about 10 hours cleaning it up and she runs like butter now.

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Shop is getting full!!

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Tell bossman it's time for a bonus to build a dedicated buggy storage building so you have room to work!

*ask bossman kindly for bonus :)
 
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Much like Mr @Tank5 , I bought 2 Toyota Motors tool boxes a couple years ago. I've been trying to figure out something to do with them. I thought it would be cool to have one mounted in the bed with a small padlock on it.

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Measuring and drilling -

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Made a small template so I could tack the elevator bolts in place -

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Threaded hand knobs installed... No tools required to install/remove -

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Installed. With the padlock on, you'll need a key to open/remove it -

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I like it!

I considered using two of those boxes as well to build the locking console but figured it would be too much of the same.
 
The bed is now mounted. I used the same type of bushings on the frame.

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On the bottom of the bed, I put a 6x6 3/8" plate on each corner to mount the tabs -

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I also finished the bed skins where they tie into the back bed frame -

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