Size matters? (1 Viewer)

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Newbie apologies, thanks for your patience! I have just acquired 97 LX450 with original wheels and I’m looking to lift and go up to 35s. My friend was asking about going to wheels larger than 16, and whether or not performance (on road) would be better with less rubber flex, etc.

Is there a significant improvement going larger than the original 16s??

I am interested in touring all of the national parks and off road use, but highway in between. No daily commute just full time camping and hiking.

I welcome all suggestions on tires, wheels, suspension. Gratitude!!!!
 
Last thing I want on my cruiser is less flex on my tires. I will always air down on off road use and less flex is not what I'm looking for.
 
I guess buying new wheels will open the door to many more choices in tires. I did see the Falken in 34 post. At the tire shops, they aren’t having much for me unless I go to 17 or up
 
I’m looking for best all around functionality.
Then a mild lift and 35s on stock rims will give you a good stance, good on road manners, and good flexibility on the rocks.

TooPrettyToWheel.jpg
 
Last thing I want on my cruiser is less flex on my tires. I will always air down on off road use and less flex is not what I'm looking for.
Thanks for responding, After studying the forum I now see why. Thank everyone for contributing.
 
If you aren't airing down to single digits that 1/2" of height based on wheel diameter is a non-issue.
Go to 17s there are tons of cheap takeoffs all over CL or at les schuab.
 
If you aren't airing down to single digits that 1/2" of height based on wheel diameter is a non-issue.
Go to 17s there are tons of cheap takeoffs all over CL or at les schuab.

Question was if there was an advantage to having less sidewall flex, not can i run a bigger wheel. I agree there is not a lot of difference in "1/2" inch in height, either good or bad. I would have no problem running 17's, but on the other hand i would not spend the money to go to a new 17inch wheel if I already owned a good 16 inch wheel or would i trade out good 16 inch tires just to move up to 17's
 
I can read. Thanks for the input.

Question was if there was an advantage to having less sidewall flex, not can i run a bigger wheel. I agree there is not a lot of difference in "1/2" inch in height, either good or bad. I would have no problem running 17's, but on the other hand i would not spend the money to go to a new 17inch wheel if I already owned a good 16 inch wheel or would i trade out good 16 inch tires just to move up to 17's
 
I'm currently thinking of keeping the stock wheels and mounting 35's then maybe further down the road I would look at 17's. It's more of a mystery to me to choosing the best suspension/lift... I guess it comes down to personal preference (I like brunettes) but I want to avoid any pitfalls, like not lifting enough the first time, or generally, for me following the tried and true path is what works best all around. I appreciate ALL feedback, thanks!
 
Thanks! Can you tell me about the lift kit here?
It is an old IronMan 4" springs and shocks. Nothin' fancy and a little old school. Good road manners and does very well in the rocks.

small.jpg
 
It is an old IronMan 4" springs and shocks. Nothin' fancy and a little old school. Good road manners and does very well in the rocks.

View attachment 1882410
Hands down my favorite riding lift. I had it on my last 80 with the foam cell shocks and just loved the ride quality. I haven't been in another 80 yet that I thought rode better (including those with slinky's, Dobinsons, Radflo's, Icons, Fox, OME, etc). The ride quality on and offroad is just great.
 
It is an old IronMan 4" springs and shocks. Nothin' fancy and a little old school. Good road manners and does very well in the rocks.

View attachment 1882410

Has IronMan changed in quality, as in old school performance vs. made in China or something similar? Am I just getting the impression that this setup is not around these days? Thanks!
 
IronMan is still around. They're now partnered with Metaltech as the US distributor.
Iron Man Suspension first impression
That's from 2010 when I installed springs and shocks on my White 91. I took that setup off the White 91 and put it on the Black LX450. I bought new IronMan shocks sometime in early 2017 to replace the beat up ones. Same springs though.
 
Has IronMan changed in quality, as in old school performance vs. made in China or something similar? Am I just getting the impression that this setup is not around these days? Thanks!
I ran their 4" suspension just a few years ago (four?). Metaltech (Off Road Parts & Accessories | Metal Tech 4x4) is the US distributor and they're typically quick to respond to any questions you may have. I would suggest upgrading to the Ironman Pro foam cell shocks as not only do they provide the ride quality of their regular foam cell shock, but they have a larger fluid capacity (to prevent fading) and are rebuildable.
There are a lot of opinions on shocks for the 80 series, and I won't discredit any vendor out there, but I think the Ironman Pro shocks are one of the few products out there where you actually get your money's worth in regards to longevity and quality.
 
I ran their 4" suspension just a few years ago (four?). Metaltech (Off Road Parts & Accessories | Metal Tech 4x4) is the US distributor and they're typically quick to respond to any questions you may have. I would suggest upgrading to the Ironman Pro foam cell shocks as not only do they provide the ride quality of their regular foam cell shock, but they have a larger fluid capacity (to prevent fading) and are rebuildable.
There are a lot of opinions on shocks for the 80 series, and I won't discredit any vendor out there, but I think the Ironman Pro shocks are one of the few products out there where you actually get your money's worth in regards to longevity and quality.
Thank you!
 
I run a 2.5" OME lift with 35's if you think 4" is too much. The higher you lift it, the more you'll need to adjust the camber. Edit: (Castor not Camber - Thank you, Jon!) My front tires barely touch front mud flaps when you turn the wheels IF you keep 'em on. You'll find that if you keep your rig light and stay away from the heavier armored bumpers & such, stock gearing should be fine. 35's are right on the edge of needing some gearing assistance if you add any weight. It's a personal choice, though. You can change either diffs or transfer case if you decide you need more power. 4.88's are the popular diff ratio choice for 35's, I went with 5.29's myself.
Pic of mine:
IMG_1404.JPG


As you can tell, mine sets lower than @jonheld 's, but for my use - it works fine. And my rears will just barely rub inner wheel well at full stuff, but it's rare for that to happen with my use.
 
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I run a 2.5" OME lift with 35's if you think 4" is too much. The higher you lift it, the more you'll need to adjust the camber. My front tires barely touch front mud flaps when you turn the wheels IF you keep 'em on. You'll find that if you keep your rig light and stay away from the heavier armored bumpers & such, stock gearing should be fine. 35's are right on the edge of needing some gearing assistance if you add any weight. It's a personal choice, though. You can change either diffs or transfer case if you decide you need more power. 4.88's are the popular diff ratio choice for 35's, I went with 5.29's myself.
Pic of mine:View attachment 1885571

As you can tell, mine sets lower than @jonheld 's, but for my use - it works fine. And my rears will just barely rub inner wheel well at full stuff, but it's rare for that to happen with my use.
Thank you! I was thinking of going with 4" 35's and honestly wondering about how to choose gear ratio... I would like to stay as light as possible. However it's easier said than done, as I found out on the Appalachian Trail... not currently towing, but in the future may want to have a teardrop style camper or the airstream nest. I have a 30Ft. 1971 airstream but have no plans of moving it. Thanks for the info!!
 

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