Simply speaker speaker repair (2 Viewers)

[bdruff]

I called them first but they are closed for Thanksgiving.

I used them to repair my sub and it is still perfect after a few years. I decided to do the front door speakers now.

Passenger side looked as expected. Foam destroyed.

The drivers side was a different story. The foam was destroyed but the cone was also detached from the speaker cage. The speaker wires are still intact and the cone itself seems ok.

It all looks fine and I’m wondering if I can use the same glue that came in the speaker repair kit to glue the cone back to the basket, and whether that will even work. We’ll find out... it’s setting up now.

I also thought about running down to the junk yard and picking up a speaker and using the repair foam on that one. My repair may work fine, or I might destroy the new foam piece I just bought. I have to decide pretty quick. The junk yard closes in a few hours. Decisions, decisions...

I don’t know what the junk yard would charge me plus its not close. Looking for opinions...

Any thoughts on whether the same glue that is used to glue the foam will work for glueing the cone back to the cage?

Thanks

 

[trdcorolla]

If your 100 is a LC, aren't the speakers already 4 Ohm? If so, it might be better just to replace the front pair with low power aftermarket speakers. They are probably 30-60 dollars.

 

[bdruff]

It's a lx470 with the Mark levinson...ohms are different

 

[bamabrock]

What size foam surround replacement for Mark Levinson Front Door Speaker?

 

[bdruff]

I went to their sits and ordered for my front door speakers. I think they are about 6"

 

[bdruff]

That's what I got , but it's to replace the out foam. The adhesive that holds the cone to the cage had also given out. I used the same glue and reglued it

 

[trdcorolla]

Does the speaker move? If it moves you might be okay gluing it. If not, the voice coil may be disconnected, if you push it while music is playing and it works while you hold it down, not sure if gluing it will work. You probably have nothing to lose trying.

 

[bdruff]

It’s all put together and setting up. The speakers move the same as each other. I’m hoping everything is ok. We’ll see in about an hour.

 

[Empty room]

View attachment 1833507 It’s all put together and setting up. The speakers move the same as each other. I’m hoping everything is ok. We’ll see in about an hour.

Let us know how it turned out... I replace my ML foam as well but it was the subwoofer and it turned out great!

 

[bdruff]

They sound great. Huge improvement. I'm picky when it comes to audio. I don't really like the ML system. The fact that it's all tied to the truck system controls makes it even worse but at least it sounds as good as possible. Very easy to do if you are patient and careful.

 

[MuseChaser]

... I'm picky when it comes to audio. I don't really like the ML system. ...

Just out of honest curiosity, what about the sound of the ML system do you dislike? As a lifelong audio nut/speaker design hobbyist and part time semi-professional (whoopeee/who cares) recording engineer, the ML system, at least to my ears, images better and has the most natural-sounding presentation I've ever heard in a vehicle when listening to acoustic music. It's not the loudest, nor is it going to fluff your girlfriend's hair with gut-bubbling bass slam, nor annoy passing motorists with electronica-sourced thump, but none of that has anything to do with sounding good. I understand disliking the integration with the climate control system, and that it doesn't appeal to those who like to tinker with and "upgrade" their audio systems since it's so proprietary, but there's really not much to upgrade in terms of sound quality. What don't you like about the sound?

 

[bdruff]

When I was younger, I built my ideal car audio system and nothing has sounded great since. I don't need it super loud but I like a very "clean" sound. Crisp. Maybe one 10" sub would be enough bass and a little cleaner mid range. I love a clear, crisp tweeter too. The ML system sounds like a lot of speakers making a surround sound experience but it's not crisp and clear. In my opinion.

 

[MuseChaser]

When I was younger, I built my ideal car audio system and nothing has sounded great since. I don't need it super loud but I like a very "clean" sound. Crisp. Maybe one 10" sub would be enough bass and a little cleaner mid range. I love a clear, crisp tweeter too. The ML system sounds like a lot of speakers making a surround sound experience but it's not crisp and clear. In my opinion.

Thanks for the response. There's a reason there are so many different-sounding speakers, microphones, amps, preamps, etc., out there in audio-land; everyone hears things differently and has their own taste. My "natural and inviting" sound might be "dull and boring" sound to you, and your "crisp and clear" sound might be "shrill and brittle" to me... and we'd both be right! Cheers..

 

[bdruff]

Buttoned up. I have to say that it does sound really good. I took some time to get the sound adjustments just right. I still think it needs some more bass and better frequency response in the mid range, but I'm more than happy.

 

[MuseChaser]

Buttoned up. I have to say that it does sound really good. I took some time to get the sound adjustments just right. I still think it needs some more bass and better frequency response in the mid range, but I'm more than happy.
View attachment 1834572

Here's one more thing you can try. One of the first mistakes that beginning "sound guys" (sound reinforcement folks behind the mixing boards at concerts) make is to always boost whatever they think is missing, rather than cutting a specific frequency that is messing up the spectral balance. The more you boost a specific frequency or band, the more likely you are to run out of headroom on your preamp stage and introduce distortion. You electronics will be happier if you boost less, then just turn up the volume at your amp stage (your volume knob; the eq you're doing is at the preamp stage) to get the same overall level you have now. You'll have the same frequency response curve you like, but with less distortion and straining of your preamp stage.
In your graphic above, you have the bass band boosted four bars, the mids boosted two, and the treble boosted all five bars. That would make my ears bleed, but that's besides the point.. . Instead of doing that, look at the relative differences between the three bands; the mids are two bars below the bass, and the treble is one bar above the bass. Soooo... put the bass back on the middle bar (flat), CUT the mids to two bars below flat, and boost the treble to one bar above flat. Same response curve, less strain. Turn up the volume if you wish. Most likely, you'll hear cleaner, better defined sound, but with the same tonal characteristics. Worth a shot, anyway. Let me know what you hear.. I'm curious.

 

[bdruff]

Great advice!