Is there a way to splice the line other than trying to take off rusted bolts on the line?
drivers rear AHC line leak splice into fix rusted line? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ferraribuyer
- Start date
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Depends where you are splicing. If it is somewhere between the brackets, you can cut the lines with a hacksaw. Next bend them out a little and use a tube cutter to create a nice flush cut.
If you have a very small pipe cutter or a ratcheting one, you may be able to bend the tubes just enough to get the pipe cutter to spin around.
Are you splicing with a short splice (coupler) or a piece of hose? If you are trying to use a coupler, you may not have enough tubing left after you clean up both sides with a pipe cutter.
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- Thread starter
- #3
Yeah it’s above the frame rail I just replaced all the accumulators and valves then tested and the rusty line burst because of the new pressure from new parts. Can I cut the rubber part of the line and split into that you think?
If your lines are perforated from rust, I think you would be chasing the problem once you start splicing it (unlike if it got damaged at one spot).
The lines should be able to hold ~2500 psi. So any rubber lines would need to be crimped on like any hydraulic system. Did you measure the OD of the steel lines? They would need to match common hydraulic fittings or brake lines. Otherwise splicing will be difficult.
Also be very careful with contamination introduced by cutting through the lines (or rust). There is no filtering in the system.
- Thread starter
- #5
Yeah it’s completely flushed already I just know how hard it is to get these rusty lines off. It’s so hard and I know the top of the rear shock will be messed up also. These really run 2500psi? Wow
The rear hydraulic systems normal operating pressure range is lower ~750-1000psi but 2500psi would be an appropriate test pressure after allowing for fluid transients in a fully laden vehicle.
