Land Tank castor plates (1 Viewer)

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Jan 24, 2011
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Mobile, AL
currently have metal techs castor correction plates and am looking to possibly switch the the landtank ones. Mainly because of the tie rod interface with the control arms and the coil springs hitting the bump stop. On the wits end website it mentios on the discriptsion that those are better with the land tank plates. Do you have any pictures to show the difference?

Also, which plates would I use. 4 inch or 2.5? I have 850J’s, arb bumper with a winch, and a DC shaft already.
 
I need the distance from the center of the front hub to the underside of the fender/flare to calculate the ride height of the truck. Fron that we can determine which plate is appropriate.

With my 4" plates the gap between the tie rod and arm is about 1/2" and between the front lip of the bumpstop to spring is around 3/8". No issues with contact in either spot.
 
Following also, I have your 4" plates Rick, and have not installed yet. I'm running similar set to the OP, but switched my J springs awhile back to Dobinsons 3" flexi w/10 MM spacers all around. my measurements are 23 3/4" passenger and 24" drivers. also have a DC shaft installed. sorry to hijack,
 
Following also, I have your 4" plates Rick, and have not installed yet. I'm running similar set to the OP, but switched my J springs awhile back to Dobinsons 3" flexi w/10 MM spacers all around. my measurements are 23 3/4" passenger and 24" drivers. also have a DC shaft installed. sorry to hijack,
 
Rick: my understanding is that I can have too much cater but not too little. I have heavies which is 2 inch lift but I’m thinking about 4 inch plates just in case I want to go to 3 inch lift. Anything thoughts or reason I shouldn’t do that?
 
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This is with grinding some already. Would it be better?
 
It started at 24 inch’s. Settled over the last few years. Too bad I got rid my original drive shaft. I guess people should be selling them who have gone bigger.
 
Rick: my understanding is that I can have too much cater but not too little. I have heavies which is 2 inch lift but I’m thinking about 4 inch plates just in case I want to go to 3 inch lift. Anything thoughts or reason I shouldn’t do that?

At 3" you would still want the 2.5" plates. I personally build to a 4" lift. So i start with a spring that gets me there unloaded and then as i build i swap out the springs for my final set.

I started wth 850js and now have 4" Dobinson flexi springs.

When you intend to build a truck over a period of time its important to have a clear view of where you want to end up.
 
At 3" you would still want the 2.5" plates. I personally build to a 4" lift. So i start with a spring that gets me there unloaded and then as i build i swap out the springs for my final set.

I started wth 850js and now have 4" Dobinson flexi springs.

When you intend to build a truck over a period of time its important to have a clear view of where you want to end up.

I understand what you are saying but I like to find out if there is any harm in using 4 inch plate on a 2 inch lift 80.
 
Badically you subtract 20.5 from the measurement you took. At 24" you are at 3.5" of lift in ride height. This means that the 4" plates are needed as well as a DC shaft to combat vibrations.
Hey Richard,
I installed OME heavies. My measurement is 22" - 22.25". Castor angle with OME bushings is exactly '0'. Can I assume that your 2.5" plates are the answer. Are you taking orders for the next set?
Many thanks, Ted
 
Hey Richard,
I installed OME heavies. My measurement is 22" - 22.25". Castor angle with OME bushings is exactly '0'. Can I assume that your 2.5" plates are the answer. Are you taking orders for the next set?
Many thanks, Ted

I have +1 caster with 850 heavies and 23” with 10 mil trim packer, ome yellow bush.
Curious about this question as well! Thx.
 
I’m running 4” caster correction with about a 2” lift no issues with stock drive shaft with corrected drive shaft phase angle for conventional drive shaft design not Toyota’s new physics theories that have never been used again...
 
I’ll look for your gear when I see the first crack in the yellow poly. Only a year old now. A little light at speed, 65+, but not scary at all, as in no white knuckle on ice!
Just changed out the power steering ATF with oem quart, and there was a nice tightening of tracking and feel.
Thanks man.:beer:
 

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