Rag Joint Steering Slop (1 Viewer)

[YELLA DAWG]

I was under the hood yesterday on the never ending quest to locate and remedy the steering slack. The rag joint is relatively new, however I noticed when turning the wheel from left to right, there is about a 1/4" of slop where the upper shaft coupling rotates in either direction until it hits the posts that go through the rag joint (see attached photo). 1/4" at the rag joint equates to about 2 1/2" on the steering wheel. There is a shoulder on the bolts that only allows the nut to go on so far. They are as tight as they will go and it still does not make a ridged connection.

Is this normal? I could change out the bolts to tighten the coupling assembly, but want to make sure this is not just another odd design feature.

 

[Warloc]

IMO ditch the Rag joint altogether and replace it with a steering joint. You can find them with the correct splines on one end and steering shaft size on the other. Like everything it takes some work and needs to be drilled and pinned but very doable. No slop at joint, bearings instead of rubber a must for big tires.

 

[YELLA DAWG]

I'm running 33x12.5's. They will grab an expansion joint and make you change lanes. I haven't heard of converting to a steering joint. Where would I look for the parts? Is this off of a later model cruiser, or fabricate from scratch?

 

[AlaskanWheeler]

although I don't believe your rag joint is put together correctly, I wouldn't recommend going to a solid shaft. It could possibly tear up the rest of your steering column that is attached to the cab, whereas the rag joint allows flexibility between the cab an chassis.

 

[AlaskanWheeler]

I believe this is what your looking for.

Coupling Assembly Flexi - Toyota (45230-36010) | Toyota Parts

 

[Warloc]

I'm running 33x12.5's. They will grab an expansion joint and make you change lanes. I haven't heard of converting to a steering joint. Where would I look for the parts? Is this off of a later model cruiser, or fabricate from scratch?

I bought mine from Flaming River, it will not tear your rig apart??? I’m running 33’s and can drive down the road at 70 if needed, I don’t but I can. All my steering is stock except for a mini truck power unit instead of manual box. The steering joint is a flexible u joint like the one that drives your wheels. It’s pretty standard stuff on off road rigs.

 

[ginmtb]

I'm running 33x12.5's. They will grab an expansion joint and make you change lanes. I haven't heard of converting to a steering joint. Where would I look for the parts? Is this off of a later model cruiser, or fabricate from scratch?

Are you running any shims to change the castor angle? When I moved up to 33's, I put the shims that the PO had put in there for the 31's that were on my cruiser - just assumed I should do that. It was scary, the expansion joints pulled me all over the place. Removed the shims and all was good again. I have stock steering components, including the OEM rag joint.

 

[bikersmurf]

X2 on shims

I found 33x10.50 to have way better road manners than the 33x12.50 tires they replaced.

Flaming river makes really nice isolator U-Joint that would be perfect for that location. That said I'd fix the problem with the existing rag joint instead.

I've got Flaming River Ujoints and a Slip joint for the planned Scout II steering conversion.

 

[pbgbottle]

On one of my older rigs I just hammered on some tubing over those posts to take up the slack and the joint slop was minimal
Just press a fatter piece of tubing over those posts in the joint
Kind of a back yard hack but I liked the result

 

[YELLA DAWG]

Thanks for the input. I'll disassemble the steering coupler today to diagnose the rag joint slop.
No shims. So far I have replaced the center arm, tie rod ends, damper, drag link and installed a CCOT 4" lift spring kit. Rebuilding the steering box may be beyond my mechanical ability.

 

[YELLA DAWG]

As it turns out, concealed under one of the plates, the rag joint was torn all the way through. Aren't these things supposed to have reinforcing fabric inside??? None here, just rubber!

 

[AlaskanWheeler]

Junk...

Your best bet is OEM

 

[Pierps]

Just to reiterate, your castor angle is probably the reason for the wandering. You likely have two issues... your low castor angle caused by lifting the rig (issue #1) causes your rig to wander and hug ruts in the road, and the steering slop (issue #2) makes it worse since it can feel like you're not able to control the truck or react to the wandering quickly enough.

But this is a case where it doesn't hurt to make one improvement at a time and see how it goes. That rag joint definitely needs replacing, so might as well swap it out and see how you do. I'll bet you still have the wandering issue though.

 

[YELLA DAWG]

I like the one step at a time approach. And when it's fixed, stop fixing it! Out of curiosity, can I buy a set of shims off the shelf to work with my Hell For Stout 4" lift spring kit?

 

[bikersmurf]

I like the one step at a time approach. And when it's fixed, stop fixing it! Out of curiosity, can I buy a set of shims off the shelf to work with my Hell For Stout 4" lift spring kit?

Yes. The question is how much angle.... manual steering you'll want about 3 degrees castor.

Stock the drive flange should be perpendicular to the ground. You'll want to increase the castor angle about two degrees plus whatever it's off.