Stereo FAQ (2 Viewers)

[NexusD]

Hey guys I need some help with this radio upgrade install. I’m good with electronics but this has me totally confused.

So this is a 2000 LC non-nav. Installing a Chinese knock off doable din.

I bought the Metra 70-8113 Amplifier Integration Harness but I don’t get where the RCA cables go? In addition, the Metra harness fits the stock LC harness but the wire colors don’t seem to match up?

Am I missing something? Do I need the Metra 70-8112 harness? But that too has RCA cables. Do I need to buy the Amp bypass adaptor?

My next move is to cut the factory harness and just solder the wires from factor to the new Chinese knock off radio harness.

Thank you

 

[TXSunDevil]

It depends on what you want to do. My JVC Double Din has RCA outputs on the rear.

This allows you to use them with your factory setup. A Metra amp bypass is available that allows you to use the speaker outputs and use your new head unit to run the speakers. As far as matching colors go don't be too concerned about the colors. Check the functions on both the Metra harness and the head unit instructions and pair them.

 

[ogsuv]

fellow 2000 LC owner here and former car stereo installer

At first glance, I wasn't sure if this would work, but it should I think. The RCA's on the metra harness plug into the new radio's RCA outputs.
White/gray is front, green/purple is rear. this would provide audio signal into the factory amplifier. you would then not need to use any of the speaker wires coming out of the new radio.

in txsundevil's post above it is #3 and #4 in the diagram.

The point of this would be to retain the factory amplifier under the passenger seat and also retain power to the factory subwoofer.

I chose to bypass the amp completely and use my new head unit's power to run the speakers. I think this would sound better, but without the sub running, that is probably debatable.

I have an aftermarket amp and sub, so hard for me to say for sure.

I ordered a new head unit recently and crutchfield sent me a metra 70-8116 to bypass the amp, but I had already cut the wires from my first install.

hope this helps.

 

[Dozer18]

don't forget to cap/tape/otherwise secure the ends of the unused wires from the stereo harness. I made this rookie mistake on a recent install in my '04 LC, and I had to eventually pull it back out and tape/cap everything off. My new Pioneer unit kept going into a self-protect mode to prevent shorting out.

 

[MrPaulSims]

I may have totally overlooked this. But has anybody retained their stock sub setup with an aftermarket radio? I know it's supposed to be junk, but it's there and free.. so I'd like to hook it up if possible. 1998 100 Series.

 

[TNLCMama]

I'm in the midst of replacing everything (ok, I'll admit, i personally am not doing the work- I hired it out) and honestly thought I could keep the stock sub...

It's going- not work keeping.

So, I'll have two to sell, one from a 2000 (we pulled after it was totalled, thinking I had upgraded it only to find I hadn't) and one from a 2002.

I may have totally overlooked this. But has anybody retained their stock sub setup with an aftermarket radio? I know it's supposed to be junk, but it's there and free.. so I'd like to hook it up if possible. 1998 100 Series.

 

[cILx]

I'm doing a nav delete on 2005 LC100.
A surprise for me was that the OEM amplifier is controlled by AVC-LAN so I can't use it with my new Pioneer headunit.
Until I decide which aftermarket amplifier I will use I was thinking of running the factory speakers from the HU.

Is there a harness that plugs into the speaker wiring that I can route to the HU? Or is cut and splice the only option?

 

[bucfl]

You can use a metra harness but I had bad luck with it. Static and buzzing and no fade control. It is pretty cheap so worth a shot. I finally went and bought after market amp. In build if you need model.

 

[jLB]

I'm doing a nav delete on 2005 LC100.
A surprise for me was that the OEM amplifier is controlled by AVC-LAN so I can't use it with my new Pioneer headunit.
Until I decide which aftermarket amplifier I will use I was thinking of running the factory speakers from the HU.

Is there a harness that plugs into the speaker wiring that I can route to the HU? Or is cut and splice the only option?

I'm getting ready to do an amplifier bypass on my son's 2000 TLC

According to the 2000 TLC EWD, the "S6 connector" (PN 90980-10848) to the amplifier has the speaker wires. I've got a Metra 70-8116, that is supposed to be the companion connector to "S6".


Just for comparison

According to the 2006 LX470 EWD, the "S18 connector" (also PN 90980-10848) to the amplifier has the speaker wires. I assume that I could use the same Metra 70-8116 in my vehicle to bypass the amplifier (If I wanted to deal with the non-nav conversion)

I suspect it would be the same on a 2005 TLC.

If you're using the OEM connections for B+, ACC, and GND, after your non-nav conversion, you may run into the issue that these signals pass through the amplifier to get to the head unit (if it's the same as the 2000 model)

 

[cILx]

Plug seems to be the same. I don't have a ewd for my 2005 LC. In my stupidness I assumed that the ewd for 2004 and 2005 would be identical.
At least regarding the navigation system there are differences.
I have my suspicions that each speaker has their own set of wiring. (One pair of wiring for front left tweeter, one for front right. Same for front left and right woofer.)
I will try to see what Mr T has been up to.

 

[jerryb]

there's only pairs for each door off the amp. front drivers passes though nav for voice commands. You have to pick that pair up after the nav ecu. I found it easier to just pick all 8 wires under the seat and do what you want with them. extend to the deck, or hook up to a new amp. I find the metra harnesses cheap and don't like them.
The red/yellow/black/blue one is cheap and easy, but I'd not run a ground through it.

I do not recall any differences in the nav wiring, mdf, illumination, or stereo R plugs for 2004-2007. not in an LC at least.
if you check the post 2003 nav delete thread you can find ewd for what you need, if you need.

 

[cILx]

there's only pairs for each door off the amp. front drivers passes though nav for voice commands. You have to pick that pair up after the nav ecu. I found it easier to just pick all 8 wires under the seat and do what you want with them. extend to the deck, or hook up to a new amp. I find the metra harnesses cheap and don't like them.
The red/yellow/black/blue one is cheap and easy, but I'd not run a ground through it.

I do not recall any differences in the nav wiring, mdf, illumination, or stereo R plugs for 2004-2007. not in an LC at least.
if you check the post 2003 nav delete thread you can find ewd for what you need, if you need.

I hope you are correct. (Which you probably are)

Just wanted to post some findings I did.

One project involving adding an aux in on a factory Toyota HU.
TOYOTA Corolla MP3 Project

And this that claims that they can turn on the factory amplifier with their adapter:
Product

It should be possible to build an adapter that controls the amp.

 

[brownfox]

I haven’t read every post in this, but I did see this brought up earlier. Taking the stock single din out on a 2005 w/nav.

I’ve got my older pioneer fit into there as a test and it fits. It sticks out a hair, but I think I could fab a surround for it with some ABS plastic sheets I have.

With the stock single din u plugged, I cannot access the nav screen and my vehicle information screen has reset from the mileage. I also get a message telling me that the car can tell the stereo is disconnected. Perhaps this is not the way to go, just the price of the nav delete is too high.

Has anyone actually gone through with replacing the single din?

 

[jerryb]

You need the resistor on the tx lines for the old deck.

 

[brownfox]

Thanks, should have been able to find your other thread on my own, sorry.

This is really the only thing thats ever made me say eff Toyota. This integration is BS.

 

[jerryb]

you can delete everything on the avc lan except the screen once you put a resistor in the R stereo plug. At least you can get back the space under the passenger seat. minus the television ecu if you want your back up cam to work on the stock screen.

 

[brownfox]

All I want to do is have an aftermarket head unit, single din is fine. I don't need the built in amp to work or anything, and I will toss the 6 disc changer. I like the info screen and don't mind the rest of the NAV display, but probably will extend it and hide it in the future. I have done a wire tuck on a previous vehicle so I'm confident I can extend everything without an issue. I don't need the antenna, I never listen to the radio so it can stay tucked for all I care.

I have some more research to do, basically looking over your threads jerryb to see how to make sure the speakers connect. If necessary I will just wire straight to the factory speakers and by-pass everything.

 

[T3QCruiser]

Ok, so count me in as another 1998 Land Cruiser (USDM) owner with a slight hiss/white noise after installing an aftermarket HU with the metra style amp integration harness (def a cheaper HU but has Android Auto which is what was important to me). A secondary issue is that the variable volume control on my HU is not very variable because at volume level "1" it's already louder than I would usually listen and just gets louder from there. In my experience, this is often a result of cheaper audio gear, especially when using digital amps. I mean despite the hiss, it sounds at least as good or better than the factory head unit...

But, what makes me scratch my head a little is the thought that maybe if I used a potentiometer to turn down the signal on the RCAs it should give me a little more volume adjustment headroom instead of going from nothing to 50% volume at level "1" on the HU. For now I've gotten by by just lowering the EQ into the negative for all 3 bands which lowers the sound a little.

To me, the hiss sounds like the amp gain is just too high. It doesn't really seem like a bad ground because it's not really picking up any engine noise with RPM in my scenario.

What's very interesting is that @suprarx7nut mentions the amp generating its own "floating ground" and the aftermarket HU using its case as a ground. Oddly enough, when I was testing out the system before getting it all buttoned up, I was holding the HU in my hand and powering on the car and would get a horrendous growl as the amp turned on that was going to be unlivable. I presume this is from the fact that as @suprarx7nut mentioned in another thread, the aftermarket HU grounds through it's own case and at that point it wasn't grounded at all in my hand. I could also hear a lot of popping/cracking as I wiggled it into place with the power on (and now of course it was making ground on the case).

So, all that yapping and I'm wondering if anyone has tried adding two potentiometers on the RCAs to turn down the signal from the aftermarket HU. My theory is that the factory amp is simply set too sensitive (gain too high) so it's picking up noise from the HU. I'm considering adding two of these in the name of science...

http://a.co/d/3zDnBsm

Oh, and just an afterthought, anyone know what the brown "amp mute" wire in the amp integration harness does for the factory amp?

 

[suprarx7nut]

Ok, so count me in as another 1998 Land Cruiser (USDM) owner with a slight hiss/white noise after installing an aftermarket HU with the metra style amp integration harness (def a cheaper HU but has Android Auto which is what was important to me). A secondary issue is that the variable volume control on my HU is not very variable because at volume level "1" it's already louder than I would usually listen and just gets louder from there. In my experience, this is often a result of cheaper audio gear, especially when using digital amps. I mean despite the hiss, it sounds at least as good or better than the factory head unit...

But, what makes me scratch my head a little is the thought that maybe if I used a potentiometer to turn down the signal on the RCAs it should give me a little more volume adjustment headroom instead of going from nothing to 50% volume at level "1" on the HU. For now I've gotten by by just lowering the EQ into the negative for all 3 bands which lowers the sound a little.

To me, the hiss sounds like the amp gain is just too high. It doesn't really seem like a bad ground because it's not really picking up any engine noise with RPM in my scenario.

What's very interesting is that @suprarx7nut mentions the amp generating its own "floating ground" and the aftermarket HU using its case as a ground. Oddly enough, when I was testing out the system before getting it all buttoned up, I was holding the HU in my hand and powering on the car and would get a horrendous growl as the amp turned on that was going to be unlivable. I presume this is from the fact that as @suprarx7nut mentioned in another thread, the aftermarket HU grounds through it's own case and at that point it wasn't grounded at all in my hand. I could also hear a lot of popping/cracking as I wiggled it into place with the power on (and now of course it was making ground on the case).

So, all that yapping and I'm wondering if anyone has tried adding two potentiometers on the RCAs to turn down the signal from the aftermarket HU. My theory is that the factory amp is simply set too sensitive (gain too high) so it's picking up noise from the HU. I'm considering adding two of these in the name of science...

http://a.co/d/3zDnBsm

Oh, and just an afterthought, anyone know what the brown "amp mute" wire in the amp integration harness does for the factory amp?

I'm thinking the potentiometer would be too late in the circuit to help. At that point the signal is what it is. Lowering the volume of the hiss will lower the volume of the music, requiring amplification further downstream.

Of course, experimentation always trumps theory, so I vote you try it out!

The volume being too loud sounds like an odd setting/configuration within the head unit. My 98 acted perfectly normal from a volume standpoint with the aftermarket HU (Pioneer) and factory amp. It sounds like your head unit is just configured to have a really high volume output. Do you know what the voltage is on the RCA outs of the head unit? That's normally an advertised spec. Maybe the android manufacturer wanted to maximize that spec and made it unusually high. Typically it's 2-4v. If it's 8v or something I could see that causing issues with the factory amp which was probably never designed to handle a wide range of incoming voltages.

 

[T3QCruiser]

@suprarx7nut, I agree for the potential of the potentiometer to be too late in terms of the hiss but I am feeling determined to try it, at least to give me a bit more volume adjustability at the HU before being too loud.

To clear up a few things, my HU isn't an "android HU" it's got Android Auto and Carplay (features provided by Google and Apple). I chose NOT to use an Android based HU because I questioned the quality of their amplification and general circuitry as well as reliability and system lag. That said, I'd be embarrassed to say the major brand of the HU I got...it's basically the cheapest HU you can get with Android Auto capabilities and the next deck up is double the cost so it represents a fantastic value for what it is. Definitely not without its faults. For example, why ON EARTH do you include an antenna turn on lead but turn on the antenna ANY time the HU is powered on for any reason at all, including to display the backup camera even when the deck was otherwise off! Yes, it will fire up the antenna when I put it in reverse with the HU off...

The preamps are rated at 2V on my HU. I actually reached out to a local car stereo expert to get some clarification on the hiss I'm experiencing and he's shared some interesting things. I mentioned using some of the potentiometers he makes and sells and he all but ignored that part (which leads me to trust his advice somewhat since he wasn't trying to make an easy sale). He says the hiss is the noise floor of the HU and if it had a hotter signal from the RCAs, the amp wouldn't have to listen to the noise (and amplify it). I think he's crudely explaining signal to noise ratio but he didn't use the term. He claims the factory radio can send voltages to the factory amp up to 16volts by amplifying the 12v system...Not sure I buy this. To me, it seems more likely that the factory radio is sending out a low signal which is why the gain seems to be so high on the factory amp. He's claiming I should try passing the high level speaker leads to the factory amp and this will get rid of the hiss but I'm not sure I'm buying that.

As for the volume too high, I do think it's mostly because this is a cheaper HU so it's volume control is a bit basic and doesn't have much resolution for variability. I do think the potentiometers WILL help in that regard. If it reduced the hiss, that would be icing on the cake. I think the potentiometers will fit behind the AC controls in that dead space, I don't plan on installing them for constant tinkering, hoping to set and forget if I can.

I'm not sure my hiss is even the same that others have experienced. I really can't even hear mine if the cabin fan is turned on and blowing or the vehicle is on the freeway. It has to be at a dead stop and quiet to notice the hiss.