hoser
SILVER Star
@jcrandall I believe the PN to be 89782-33020. Double check it!
Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter chukiechz
- Start date
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Thanks!
has anyone paid to have this done recently? I just got quoted $1018 from Camelback Toyota here in Phoenix. Ouch!
The part they said I need is 89073-60011, which is $679.
The part they said I need is 89073-60011, which is $679.
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Is that for the gold plated butt plug? seems pretty damn expensive.
Depend on the year and feature, you need one of the following parts which is a lot less expensive.
45280-60460
45280-60510
45280-60610
Did you ever install this keyless system? I have to admit I always needed a key (I'm resistant to change) but after using a push button start on my wife's RX350 I could do without the key now.
I have a spare 45280-60510 to sell. Vendor mistakenly sent it to me (I have '00 manual tilt, this one is for 98-02 Power tilt). It had been collecting dust for nearly a year by the time I caught the mistake.
Willing to cut someone a deal if you're interested.
Willing to cut someone a deal if you're interested.
shoot me a message. depending on timing, i might be interested.
sent, check in your inbox
update: after double-checking my car, Murph at Camelback Toyota here in Phoenix gave me a new quote: $450. Murph saves the day again!!!
Well my 01 ignition broke Friday @ just under 200k mi. Got the tow home from AAA and thanks to all on this thread ordered the part from the dealer and got it replaced Saturday. Had a hard time removing the broken piece because of the spring loaded piece on the bottom right side of the housing. Eventually found out if you push it all the way into the right there is a slot at the 12 o-clock position that you can use a long scribe or thin screwdriver to hold that piece in place allowing you to easily remove the broken piece. I also drilled and tapped both broken pieces using a #6 screw that I cut, I suppose to use in case of an emergency for myself or anyone if this happens away from home.
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SgtMoonracer
SILVER Star
I've read through this thread about three times... I've got an '05 LX470.
I backed into the garage this morning, turned the key back to "accessory", and something shat the bed. The key will not turn to "off" to allow me to remove it from the ignition; it will turn to "start", and the dash lights up as if it's starting, but it will not start. The key just returns to and remains in the "accessory" position. I assumed that the rod had broken.
I finished breaking the key shaft loose from the shell so I could remove the bezel over the key, and disassembled everything as indicated in the earlier posts. I managed to remove the lock cylinder barrel rod. It isn't broken.
I've reassembled everything but still no luck. I tried to start it with pliers, turning the brass-colored tab that normally inserts into the switch mechanism. I had the fob in close proximity and the lighted bezel in place; it still wont start, although the dash lights up as if it is going to just like if I try it with the key. It seems like the brass tab will not rotate far enough toward 9 o'clock to allow the ignition to shut off, just like with the key. I've tried another key. It does the same thing. I still can't get the key out of the cylinder without removing the cylinder from the shaft.
I do have back and forth play in the key cylinder, but I'm not certain that's not supposed to be like that.
Any suggestions?
I backed into the garage this morning, turned the key back to "accessory", and something shat the bed. The key will not turn to "off" to allow me to remove it from the ignition; it will turn to "start", and the dash lights up as if it's starting, but it will not start. The key just returns to and remains in the "accessory" position. I assumed that the rod had broken.
I finished breaking the key shaft loose from the shell so I could remove the bezel over the key, and disassembled everything as indicated in the earlier posts. I managed to remove the lock cylinder barrel rod. It isn't broken.
I've reassembled everything but still no luck. I tried to start it with pliers, turning the brass-colored tab that normally inserts into the switch mechanism. I had the fob in close proximity and the lighted bezel in place; it still wont start, although the dash lights up as if it is going to just like if I try it with the key. It seems like the brass tab will not rotate far enough toward 9 o'clock to allow the ignition to shut off, just like with the key. I've tried another key. It does the same thing. I still can't get the key out of the cylinder without removing the cylinder from the shaft.
I do have back and forth play in the key cylinder, but I'm not certain that's not supposed to be like that.
Any suggestions?
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If I were in your situation, I’d call a locksmith. If you can’t remove the key or turn it all the way to start, then it’s going to require a specialist.
Mine snapped last night in Home Depot parking lot. No warnings and no force that would have caused a snap other than time.
Called local Toyota dealership and closest Lexus dealership for the rod and got the same price of $275. Had it towed to a nearby shop and will post updates.
If there is an affordable/reliable way to switch over to a push button start I am all ears!
Called local Toyota dealership and closest Lexus dealership for the rod and got the same price of $275. Had it towed to a nearby shop and will post updates.
If there is an affordable/reliable way to switch over to a push button start I am all ears!
Newest member of the club
2000 lc with 250K no warnings the lock was not engaged when it broke and unless it snapped as I turned it off there was no resistance when I tried to turn it clicked from lock to free spinning.
No local places had the parts so I ordered from toyotapartsdeal.com hope they are good to go. 175+shipping.
2000 lc with 250K no warnings the lock was not engaged when it broke and unless it snapped as I turned it off there was no resistance when I tried to turn it clicked from lock to free spinning.
No local places had the parts so I ordered from toyotapartsdeal.com hope they are good to go. 175+shipping.
98 lx470, 140k. No warning, resistance, or issues. 150 for part from a fellow mudder and a week without my rig including shipping times.
Happened to me a few weeks ago. No warning or previous issues. Westside Lexus in Houston charged me $530.72 for the repair on my 2006 LX470 with 125,000 miles.
ok to get the broken off tip out
It was in the off position when it broke acc off if that matters.
When you push in the steering wheel lock bar on the right does the broken piece slide straight out or do you need long needle nose pliers to twist it to get it out.
I used a pick like in the video I pushed the wheel lock in till the wheel did unlock I had the pick behind the broken off tip it wiggles but I cant get it to come out.
I have a decent gap in the white plastic part I would guess .063-.09 is that enough or do I need to losen them more ?
It was in the off position when it broke acc off if that matters.
When you push in the steering wheel lock bar on the right does the broken piece slide straight out or do you need long needle nose pliers to twist it to get it out.
I used a pick like in the video I pushed the wheel lock in till the wheel did unlock I had the pick behind the broken off tip it wiggles but I cant get it to come out.
I have a decent gap in the white plastic part I would guess .063-.09 is that enough or do I need to losen them more ?
any tips on how to get the broken end out ? I have read the thread. from looking at the replacement part with the good shaft. It seems I need to turn my broken end 90Deg counter clockwise. I can turn it clockwise a few clicks and back but it will not budge back the other way.
Is it time to give up and pull the assembly ?
Is it time to give up and pull the assembly ?
Well that solved that problem.
If you have any mechanical ability and spend more than 15 minutes on fishing out the old part STOP
If you followed the Video posted in this thread spend 5 minutes more and remove the 4 nuts that hold the steering column up. I actualy loosened all 4 then left one with 3-4 threads still in the nut took off the other 3 moved the seat forward a bit so the wheel can rest on it. Removed the last nut. Pushed down on the column Drilled the heads of the security bolts with a 1/8" bit then a 1/2" bit I did some on each one till I was down to the bracket on both then back to each one till the steel 180deg bracket popped off. I did not even have to remove the air duct
At that point unplug the remaining plugs I think it was 4 and yank the full unit out. Put in on the bench swap out the parts to the new unit. Slap it back in plug in connectors and your off and running.
With it being turkey day and I was lazy I have to wait till Friday to go grab some metric allen head bolts to replace the security bolts they are pointless it will take longer to find an allen wrench and un screw them than it did to drill them out. I did booger up the 180deg bracket some with the bit but for me I don't have a problem with that its totally hidden anyways.
and just for fun you do not need it bolted to the column to start the car. I have not tried to drive it yet.
If you have any mechanical ability and spend more than 15 minutes on fishing out the old part STOP
If you followed the Video posted in this thread spend 5 minutes more and remove the 4 nuts that hold the steering column up. I actualy loosened all 4 then left one with 3-4 threads still in the nut took off the other 3 moved the seat forward a bit so the wheel can rest on it. Removed the last nut. Pushed down on the column Drilled the heads of the security bolts with a 1/8" bit then a 1/2" bit I did some on each one till I was down to the bracket on both then back to each one till the steel 180deg bracket popped off. I did not even have to remove the air duct
At that point unplug the remaining plugs I think it was 4 and yank the full unit out. Put in on the bench swap out the parts to the new unit. Slap it back in plug in connectors and your off and running.
With it being turkey day and I was lazy I have to wait till Friday to go grab some metric allen head bolts to replace the security bolts they are pointless it will take longer to find an allen wrench and un screw them than it did to drill them out. I did booger up the 180deg bracket some with the bit but for me I don't have a problem with that its totally hidden anyways.
and just for fun you do not need it bolted to the column to start the car. I have not tried to drive it yet.
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