12V Outlet Install (1 Viewer)

[C6H12O6]

I recently picked up an ARB 50qt. fridge and the stock 12V source in the back wasn't up to the task, so I decided to add some beefier 12V power to the back of the 100. I already had some 8 AWG wire routed back there to a subwoofer amplifier, so it was easy to move some things around to accommodate the fridge.

As you can see, there is quite a bit of room in the DS back panel if you remove the terrible stock subwoofer. I already had a small 8" sub and amp built into my drawer-less cargo box I brought over from my 80 when I sold it, so that was an easy swap.

Just a quick plug for adding an aftermarket subwoofer. See what I did there? Plug? I pulled the stock sub apart and removed the wiring to splice the high-level outputs into my amplifier's wiringharness. I don't really need big sound, but the space behind the cargo panel is precious and the stock sub sucks.

Anyway, back to the 12V install. I ran the 8 AWG wire to the back and mounted a BlueSea fuse block. Sorry for the blurry pic. I used 10 AWG wire to supply the amp and the 12V plug with power. I might have gone bigger if I was going to be running any bigger drain stuff like an inverter back there, but I'm not, and the 8 AWG was already there for the amp. Should be fine.

I didn't want to drill through the panel and make it look hacked up, and re-wiring the stock 12V plug would have been a pain, and it's in a terrible spot for my needs. The BlueSea 12V socket and cover is almost a great fit for the small ash tray, and I don't smoke, so out it came.

 

[C6H12O6]

I have a 3D printer at work, so I got out the caliper to measure the ash tray holder and used TinkerCAD to build a panel for the 12V outlet. Like I said, the supplied BlueSea mount was almost perfect, but there wasn't really anything to screw it into. This was fun, and it was easier than hacking something together in my garage. Also, the circle in the BlueSea cover still allowed the 12V outlet to spin around, which sucks. The back of the outlet is a threaded cylinder, but has two flat spots to stop the spinning, if only there were flat spots on the mount. Now there are. The fit was just about perfect.

You can see in this first pic that I put tabs on the side of the mount in case I needed to screw it into the sides of the ash tray trim piece. The fit was so snug, that I haven't needed to do that yet. I just printed it in cheap PLA filament, so we'll see how it ages in a hot car. Good enough for now. If anybody wants to try printing it on a better printer with better filament, I'd gladly take another one to try it out. I'll post up the .stl file if anybody wants to play with it. Overall, the look from the back gate is good enough to not look hacked together.

 

[C6H12O6]

Well, it looks like 'MUD doesn't like the .stl file. PM me if you want a copy until I can figure out a way to post it another way.

Just to finish this off, here is also a pic of the HAM radio I have mounted in that back panel. The face is mounted up front in the sunglass pocket above the mirror. I think I posted that up somewhere else already. The metal bracket for the mount was purchased at Lowe's for around $2.00. Rock solid and out of the way, and right in front of the mesh grill for the stock sub, so plenty of airflow to keep it cool.

 

[Mike6158]

Nice. Which Ham rig is that?

 

[nnnnnate]

I'd love a copy of the .stl. It looks to me that the print head is too far from the bed if that helps you calibrate it a bit more. You could post the file to thingiverse and link to it, that site needs more cruiser stuff anyway.

 

[C6H12O6]

The HAM is a Yaesu FT-8800. Great radio and well above my capabilities as an operator.

Great idea posting the mount to Thingiverse. I'll work on that today and post up a link. The printer is a MakerBot Replicator Mini+ that auto levels and I had just calibrated it. I could have cleaned the print up a bit, but I just pulled it off the printer and threw it in. I can live with it. The back side looks better. The front face was face-down on the raft the MakerBot software automatically creates. I suppose I could flip it over, but then the tabs on the back would make for a big overhang and lots of supports. Room for improvement, for sure, but this is close enough, I'll probably move on to other projects on my new 40 build.

 

[C6H12O6]

Here is the Thingiverse link:

12V Outlet Mount by mr_lent

Post up if you improve on the design or print with a better set-up.

 

[nnnnnate]

Thanks. I'll print it tonight and post up a pic or two.

 

[nnnnnate]

I got this printed last night and went to plug it in this morning but my drawers are in the way. The file looks great though and it printed really well. Printed in PLA on a Lulzbot Taz 6.

 

[C6H12O6]

Nice! Looks great.

 

[jumptrader]

How many amps did you need the new outlet to deliver? Great creativity with the 3D print!

 

[C6H12O6]

I'm running an ARB 50 qt. fridge, so I think it peaks at something like 2.5 amps. I'd have to look it up, but I'm in a meeting and I'm supposed to be listening to something important that probably should have just been in an email anyway. BlueSea also sells USB plugs in a couple different amp-hour ratings, which would be another good use for this spot.

I ran into the same conflicting space problem with my drawer-less storage platform build. I actually pulled the 12V plug and moved it into my cargo box closer to the fridge and protected from being knocked when the back is all loaded with gear. For people without a cargo system conflict, it's still a pretty solid spot for the 12 V plug. Too bad the OEM 12V plug on the back pillar isn't wired with enough juice to power anything anybody is likely to plug in there.

 

[PabloCruise]

Excellent! Thanks @C6H12O6 - are you printing any of these for folks w/ not printer?

Do you recall how much wire you needed to go from stock battery to this location?

 

[PabloCruise]

I have a 3D printer at work, so I got out the caliper to measure the ash tray holder and used TinkerCAD to build a panel for the 12V outlet. Like I said, the supplied BlueSea mount was almost perfect, but there wasn't really anything to screw it into. This was fun, and it was easier than hacking something together in my garage. Also, the circle in the BlueSea cover still allowed the 12V outlet to spin around, which sucks. The back of the outlet is a threaded cylinder, but has two flat spots to stop the spinning, if only there were flat spots on the mount. Now there are. The fit was just about perfect.


View attachment 1465154

View attachment 1465156

You can see in this first pic that I put tabs on the side of the mount in case I needed to screw it into the sides of the ash tray trim piece. The fit was so snug, that I haven't needed to do that yet. I just printed it in cheap PLA filament, so we'll see how it ages in a hot car. Good enough for now. If anybody wants to try printing it on a better printer with better filament, I'd gladly take another one to try it out. I'll post up the .stl file if anybody wants to play with it. Overall, the look from the back gate is good enough to not look hacked together.

View attachment 1465157

Are you offering prints of these?

 

[C6H12O6]

Sorry. On vacation in Kauai.

No, I’m not selling these printed at this point. My only 3D printers are the ones at work. I needed to learn the design software and figure out the printer so I could teach the kids at school how to do it and thought this part was as good a training tool as any. Not really comfortable cranking pieces out to sell on the district machines.

If you go to the Thingiverse link above, you can buy them printed through their site, but they are too expensive. Better to see if somebody here has a printer and will print one off for you. It’s probably a two-hour print on the highest quality and <$1.00 worth of filament. Good luck!

 

[aaronrules]

I would be very interested if anybody has a 3D printer that would print off a couple of these for me. Going to add USB ports with the same form factor plug.

 

[saucebox]

Those of you with some 3D-printing experience—what filament would you recommend if not PLA?

 

[C6H12O6]

I printed the prototype in PLA. Seems to be fine, but it won’t last. My cheap printers do PLA pretty well, but supposedly have trouble with fancier filament. Would love to hear what people have to say about this.

 

[PabloCruise]

Sorry. On vacation in Kauai.

No, I’m not selling these printed at this point. My only 3D printers are the ones at work. I needed to learn the design software and figure out the printer so I could teach the kids at school how to do it and thought this part was as good a training tool as any. Not really comfortable cranking pieces out to sell on the district machines.

If you go to the Thingiverse link above, you can buy them printed through their site, but they are too expensive. Better to see if somebody here has a printer and will print one off for you. It’s probably a two-hour print on the highest quality and <$1.00 worth of filament. Good luck!

Okay, thanks, I will try to find a print myself. Thank you for the file!

 

[C6H12O6]

Just remembered I don't have mine installed right now. If you want it, PM me your address. Not super hi-res, and probably won't last forever, but it's a good deal for the price of $0.00.

Steve