FWIW, that plastic bottle cap will float in petrol or diesel fuel, at least it will if it's polypropylene or HDPE. Even more reason to assume that it won't cause any issues.
Welp adjusted the floats to 40mm closed and 50mm open like it says to do factory and its still dumping fuel into the carb in the one venturi closest to to the valve cover. Not sure what the deal is. its wierd its like its all of a sudden started...
Yeah, my company is called Netgate and the affiliated company (also mine) is “Electric Sheep Fencing”, (a Phillip K. Dick / Blade Runner reference.)
One day I ran across this (they used to claim a trademark until I wrote a nice letter to them.)
AKA "riding b!tch".
We had a Norwegian exchange student last school year. The first time he rode in my friend's Chevy 1-ton he hopped in the middle, so I explained the phrase to him.
I'm not sure if it translated well...
The best I can do is $15k... lol.
In large part getting started has taken so long because I splash out for stuff, then have to wait to save for a bit. At this point, I've got body panels and most of what I need to jump into the body work...
I ask because of these wacky hijinks I encountered (20 years ago?!?)
It sounds like yours measured just fine.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/third-member-swap-denied.49036/
I should have included that information. These aren't his words but the supposed concern was deformation of the paint over time which causes the lug nuts to loosen. I really didn't subscribe to the theory at the time, or now for that matter...
I didn't go that deep. You have to pull the rear pinion bearing and I didn't want to go that far. I only pulled the circled parts and replaced everything but the Flange (but I did replace the Deflector)
Yes I did. I wouldn't have thought to even think about that but @Lifelong40Fan suggested I do so. Both diffs looked very good but I could see some slight wear/corrosion/pitting? on a few of the main ring gear teeth in the rear diff. That was...