I wish I could help more, but the Code 32 is related to a short in the cruise control switch circuit. This means that the switch could be faulty, but also there could be issues with the wiring. If the wiring test okay, it is possible someone could take the switch apart and fix it.
The EGT sensor, as with most automotive temperature sensors, is not a thermocouple generating voltage. Instead, it is a thermistor which varies its resistance according to temperature. While not likely to be polarity sensitive, there is a chance.
Try watching the timing while connecting and disconnecting the jumper wire at the DLC. If it does not move, then you likely need to adjust or replace the Throttle Position Sensor. Alternatively, you can watch the timing while barely cracking the throttle. It should jump up several degrees from...
The only thing that turns inside the transmission with the engine rotating is the front pump. The torque converter could have been only partially engaged and jammed the pump rotor when the bellhousing bolts were torqued. You'll be able to separate the engine and trans with the torque converter...
Confirming by measuring throttle angle on the scan tool does not verify that the IDL circuit is working correctly. The IDL circuit is needed for the ECM to advance the timing. It must be a closed switched (continuity to ground) with the throttle closed and an open switch (infinite resistance)...
The IDL circuit tells the ECU that the throttle is fully closed (at idle) by connecting it to ground at E2. If there is no continuity, indicating an open circuit, the ECU would think the throttle is open all the time. Since this does really not match your symptoms, it is more likely that the...
I'm pretty sure the OP was thinking he needed to jump directly across the solenoid, from the battery terminal to the motor terminal. There are technically 3 connections at the solenoid, including the M terminal.
These symptoms point to a bad connection somewhere. Just because you have good continuity with an ohmmeter or continuity checker does not mean the circuit can handle the high current of the starter.
To determine if the problem is on the ground side or the power side, I would suggest using half...
To test the check valve, you carefully remove it and blow through it both ways. It should not allow air to flow when blowing from the hose/engine side. I recently had to replace my booster after it started acting up, and my guess is you are going to have to replace the booster for this...
It is not actually called a Neutral Safety Switch in Toyota terms, but a Park/Neutral Position Switch. It is made up of two sets of contacts inside the A/T Indicator Switch, and is most definitely affected by the shift bushings and linkage adjustment. There is also an adjustment for that A/T...
It sounds like your belts could be too tight. Yes, there is such a problem and it will shorten the life of your new alternator bearings.
If this started after doing some of the work, you'll also want to check everything you already touched, as evidenced by the distributor being mistimed. A...
The circled hoses connect to opposite ends of a metal tube which is installed inside the upper intake manifold. There is no connection to intake manifold vacuum at this point, but one problem which can occur is that the metal tube gets blocked. A cheap vacuum pump w/gauge is an indispensable...