Irish Reiver

8.1 inches. FZJ80 (1993-1997) - https://www.tlc4x4.com/vehicles/fzj80/

You need to put more effort into researching this issue. There are countless threads on this subject. How long have you had the truck and what maintenance has been done? Suggest you start by looking for vacuum leaks.

Driving the heck out of it now that it’s running like it should. Next I need to drain and fill the PS, Brake, Diffs, Transfer case, transmission, and coolant. Then do the front crank seal and oil pump seal.

There is no time or temperature where the fan doesn't spin. There is always some fluid between the clutch halves.

It was a good reference for parts or other items as well.

The value in Wits End was that they sold you all the parts needed in a kit. Nothing more frustrating than buying a thermostat from your local dealer only to find that it doesn't include the gasket.

I see. I never had a problem with them, they are actually very fairly priced too (for example the belt combo kit). Thanks for the thread though I didn't see it.

No it’s not…you’ll need the lower apron to have a correct fit.

The light you saw was not oil 'pressure' but the low oil warning light. Fill crankcase with oil and try to continue to find leak. IF the oil is literally from front to back of engine then logic dictates the source is somewhere near the front...

The answer is no. The apron badges, floor mats, and console badge were added at the port…the only pseudo registration of the console badge numbers is a thread started on IH8MUD by @elmariachi, rest his soul. Toyota did sell replacement center...

So I thought I was done, but it had a slow start/long crank situation. I read a bunch on here and google searching my symptoms. Had a strong gas smell from the exhaust after the long crank startup. I guess one of the inexpensive Amazon injectors...

Measuring voltage between the cable terminal and post is incorrect because this will result in showing you full battery voltage. Instead, an ammeter needs to be inserted to measure current flowing. You must be careful that nothing is turned on...

Fixed the horn, toot toot, and finally put on the 285/75/17s and fifteen 52s! Also put up the carport shade as it’s getting hot out already.

I posted some pics of my ‘92 fresh out of the paint shop a couple of weeks ago. Since then I reinstalled the rack, jack, lights, and ladder. About all that’s left since paint is re-spooling and reinstalling the Warn EVO winch. I’m switching from...

Got the engine in and working on some gauges now. Need to figure out where to plumb the coolant temp and boost gauge into. I have my AFR going in the dump pipe bung already attached from the HD kit.

I cleaned and reconnected wires per the EWD and all is well! It appears that the red wire would be backup lights for one of the empty trailer harnesses. Thanks again for the help and, as usual, I should have consulted my EWD before posting. Cheers

The white/black stripe is ground and it should be on the rear crossmember (BG), not the spare tire support. The EWD has all the info you need.

Found an image that might help

I'm not sure where that hose goes but it isn't there. You are missing a hard line that bolts on the front of the head. A hose then connects the hard line to point near the thermostat and the other end has a hose that connects to the throttle body.

Bumper cover mock up and painted! Gunna let it dry and tack it on and that pretty much it for the rear bumper, minus shackle points. The local steel yard doesn’t carry them so i gotta source them or fab them. I’m happy with the progress and...

Even at 45 ft/lbs the hub should still rotate. I've put way more than that on it for a few rotations to get things seated correctly when reinstalling the hub. Did you put the races/bearings in the right way or are they in backwards? / \ or \ /...

Evening all, I just picked up a Toyota radiator for my '96 80-Series for $341. Central Florida Toyota have an April promotion of 25% discount on all parts. Strange thing is that the discount only shows up when you go to check out.

IMO the rig is overpriced but I do not know the CA market. I frequently see 80 available in WA, at various levels of build, for a reasonable price. Ones like what you have described and/or implied usually go for the high teens and they are rust...

Aisin is the OE. I'd pay another $50 knowing you're getting quality. Back when I purchased in march: Aisin rear left door lock actuator DLT-088 $52.51 Aisin rear right door lock actuator DLT-089 $53.16

first off 45 pounds is way too tight for the first nut 25-30 pounds, and then the locknut should be tightened to 45 pounds. If you replaced the races, I would make sure they’re all seated properly