Pighead's latest activity

@Cloud40 - FWIW: The OEM Part Numbers Nut: 90402-13041 Olive: 96395-71400

I got a quality valve job last year, with some porting and polishing and Chevy valves. Cost about 1,400 US dollars...

I would recommend having your machinist order the rebuild kit.

Second rust repair finished.

You might need a different bearing puller. You need to get that bearing off after you take the shift housing and flange off. After you take the shift fork off, you should be able to move the whole assembly far enough out of the case to get a...

He got better...

Once I took the 10 layers of paint off of the levers I saw the word "Lock" stenciled into the edge of the lever. At that point all I had to do is make sure both levers were in either the Lock of blank position. I still have to see if the...

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Look like a re-badged Duelmatic...

Started on my front axle rebuild. I was a little weary of this job, but tear down went very smoothly and quicker than I expected. I knew the knuckles were loose and leaky, but when I got into it I found some PO had not used the lock washers on...

Got the hard top back on. Had a hitch receiver cut into the factory rear bumper with some inner channel extra plating, along with a 7pin trailer harness and Anderson connector. The big plus for the hard top was getting shoulder belts installed...

First update…some wiring had some scuffed wires which got sliced open so this is the temporary fix until the oem factory colored wires arrive Gotta love cleaning other people’s work! Hhahahah

my new favorite pic

I got a few sets,$30+ shipping

I also made an air inlet tube for between the air filter and MAF meter. Pretty happy with that as well. Oh and I need to post the pic of the junction block on the frame rail to "complete" the brake line post above... also shown is the junction...

Is that an OEM camgear? If that's the only obvious factory mark I'd have to assume that's the one to align with the crankgear. I forget if, when you have the two marks aligned, you're at TDC #1 or not. If so, can you somehow guesstimate where the...

Oh, and more maintenance, but left to someone way more capable.

The correct way to center the wheel is to adjust the drag link or relay rod. If the wheel hasn't been removed b4. It insures the steering box is centered. The shortcut is to remove the wheel.

Return spring missing Accel cable too tight Idle speed screw turned in too far Fast idle/choke screw misadjusted

Just like my Dad did, and his Dad too...

I agree with Charlie, same circuit. On my 79, there's a wire bundle that enters the rear cab through a hole near right ambulance door. It supplies power to the rear side marker and license plate lights. You might look to see if any of your...

Early 2F blocks don't have the holes for mounting a power steering pump. engine number can tell the approximate date of the engine manufacture. There's also a cast number on the block that can tell the date.

The head and manifold are at the machine shop getting the broken studs removed and the head checked and cleaned. Fingers crossed it checks ok!

M12 on the 2F, don't know the thread

I prefer studs to bolts for the manifolds, and I only use Toyota studs...