You tighten until the two inner seats are tight on the ball then back off. The spring takes up the slack you leave when you back it off. Backing off the screw leaves a smidge of room for grease.
As the seats wear you start adding pennies behind...
Seated like above. Hand tightening by grasping the chisel/screwdriver blade and turning until tight, then backed off.
Driving to get lunch the steering seems normal.
Spec for adjusting the drag link end is to tighten until seated then back off 1/2 turn. Sounds simple, but there is a spring involved.
How tight is seated? Hand tight?
I can use an adjustable wrench on the chisel that I am using as a screw...
Technically, your pitman arm could still be off. Think of the center arm as an L. The leg of the arm that moves the relay rod should be parallel to the frame, with the tires pointed straight ahead, before the pitman arm is attached.
And if the...
I got the new drag link end installed.
Spec is to tighten the rear screw until seated and then back-off 1/2 turn. I'm trying to sort out what 'seated' means since there is a spring involved. Do I simply hand tighten (minimal spring compression)...
Drag Link Refresh
Took today off of work and decided to tackle a small project to rebuild the drag link end where the pitman arm attaches. I had considered the famous "2 penny" mod, but bought a rebuild kit a while back.
Disassembly:
The screw...
While I gather parts for the rear disc brake conversion, I have started to think about the spare tire carrier.
When I got the new wheels and tires the backspacing of the new wheels prevented mounting the spare, even with a 1/4" spacer like I am...
The day you've been waiting for! I'm considering raising the minimum order after Labor Day, so this is a little bonus for all my MUD customers ( and friends)😊
As always, telephone only.😊
I may post a few specials as well.😉
I have been back to daily driving the 40 on the commute to the office. Part because I like it, and part to continue with my hunch on the clutch.
The slipping was only happening in the afternoons when it was hot and after being on the 55mph...
Had a little fun this morning. I decided a few weeks ago to start pulling out the MISCELLANEOUS boxes tucked into every corner of the shop. About once a year for the 27 years I had a front counter in the shop I would predictably get annoyed...
And of course I noticed a new oil drip on the driveway. :bang: Seems to be coming from the side cover area, but I'd need to clean the engine block to get a better idea where the source is to be sure.
My guess is I overtightened some of the...
The fork seems to my eye to be pivoting cleanly. In the video the initial bit of the video the small motions are from me pushing against the pedal play.
(And yes I know I need to better secure the speedo cable, have a replacement on the shelf...
Minor project this morning. Finally replaced the long bit of hose I had as the breather from the valve cover to the air cleaner with two 2F breather tubes. I couldn't get a good hose clamp over the air cleaner side, so reused what I had before...
I posed the question of whether anyone had seen a repository of information on OE hardware manufacturers and approximate manufacturing timelines. Not much response. But while the majority of folks are content to reassemble their projects with...
We have a frankenstein FJ40.
1973 FJ40, with 1978 2f engine, 4spd tranny and tcase. It has different year doors on it, a hard top with ambulance doors, different year steering wheel, the list goes on and on.
I have been kicking around the...
I'll give that a look next weekend.
15mm to 20mm was for any resistance beyond the pedal return spring force. Felt like that is when the pedal push rod was engaging the master cylinder piston. Looking at the pedal pushrod I can adjust it maybe...
Mike, you need to have someone push down on the pedal while you carefully watch the clutch fork. The fork should pivot cleanly, like a tie rod end. Unfortunately it is not uncommon for the rivets that hold the spring steel pivot clip to the pivot...
I do have the return spring. Replaced it and the bracket for it about a year ago along with the push rod. It's definitely seated all the way into the slave cylinder.
Had a hunch on the clutch slipping and decided to check it out.
My clutch pedal has always been lower (closer to the sloped part of the floor) than the brake. I hadn't thought much of it. So I decide to go check the pedal height, play, and...
I still have some Aisin clutch kits for the older systems Mike. But know that the throwout bearing hubs are obsolete, and they are a high wear item.
I have put some of them aside to see how they take to welding up the divots, but haven’t gotten...
Acquired this 1968 FJ40 about 7 years ago and like many with Cruiser-fever had big plans: Promptly started pulling things apart and purchased lots of parts and read, read read. Bought an Orion that Mark of Mark's Off Road assembled and mated to...
Next up to address is the clutch.
It's slipping under moderate or heavy acceleration. The clutch disc is at least 20 years old. Currently I have the three-finger 3speed clutch with the 3-speed flywheel in front of my H42 4-speed. (Coincidentally...
Make it stop (better)
First up on the project list was brakes. As @65swb45 told me many years ago the correct order for fixing thing is: stop, steer, go.
Braking issues became worse this spring. Despite adjusting the brakes and replacing...
Five years later...
Over the winter I was back to wondering if I should get rid of my 40. I hadn't been driving it. My wife refuses to ride in it. (She has no issues with me driving it, she just wants front air bags and anti-lock breaks.) And...