badlander

I got the ac compressor pulley off. Yay! However I do believe this clutch is ****ed

UPDATE: I got the rotor off. I drilled a new hole and released the tension via the star adjuster. Once I got the rotor off I could see that I had pulled the Shoe Hold Down Spring's pin through the retaining cup. This allowed the spring and...

There IS a round rubber gromet on the outer surface of the rotor mounting flange near where the studs come thru to access the star adjuster. Unfortunately you'll need to rotate the hub until the access hole is at the bottom to be able to get to...

I'm assuming that is the body computer incorporated into it? That looks like one pricey unit........ Any way to mount a protective shield out of aluminium foil or something to preempt water damage.

What year is this from?

I get all my parts from toyotapartsdeal.com. Enter your vin number and search for front drive shaft and drive flange. And, you might want to change the title in your youtube vid from land ROVER to land CRUISER!

Good advice above. Most likely front CV axles and flanges need to be replaced. If it does end up being the front diff, I have a used 4.3 front ring and pinion you can have for free; just pay for shipping.

With the same setup in your video of the driveshaft spinning, look at each cv axle. If either one is spinning, the outer splines on that shaft are stripped (you're lucky, a relatively easy fix). If neither one is spinning you have a blown dront...

I have the same setup and one time the voltage didn't go down after runnimg for a short time as it usually did. I pulled over and stopped the engine and pulled out the diode/fuse and plugged it back in again and then all worked as normal. Maybe...

Just in the throes of my 2 year old non-OEM alternator failing again, so I'm taking on rebuilding the original Denso. This post is to help any others troubleshooting or rebuilding. There's a lot of stuff on the web out there, and several...

Well, DIY got me this far: It’s wrinkled, but within 1/16” of where the metal should be. I figure I’ll either take it to a body shop later, maybe attempt some filler/glaze/smooth, or just live with it. It’s entirely cosmetic, tailgate works...

No, the rear should NOT be 2" higher than the front. The consensus here is 3/4" difference in front/rear hight is optimal for the best ride and handling.

If it were me, I'd just replace it with a used one, get it painted prior to installing, and be done with it. But that's just me, I never liked, or was any good at, body work. I can see myself dragging a project like that out for months and then...

As soon as he finds his hammer.........

This probably wont solve your problem but it may provide some insight. May be more than just a switch issue.... https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/reverse-indicator-issue.944324/

The lock on type are too big to fit into that gap. You have to use a standard size on your grease gun, and they are still a tight fit and have to be aligned precisely in order to stay attached to the grease zerk.

I think the only rubber hose comming upwards in that area would be the front diff breather; nothing to do with the AC.

Could it be the computer opening the throttle plate wide open to correct for some mixture abnormality? I believe that would produce the sound you are hearing.

In case you aren't aware, It is always best to replace the diff oil seals and hub drive flanges when installing new cv axles.

Here's a screenshot:

I’m a fan of the OE rims. The 16” ones on the early 100s in particular are functional and so cheap they’re practically disposable, but they don’t need to look that way. I scored some on FBM for next to nothing, but they were covered in...

I was far from home and alone, so figured discretion was the better part of valor!

You gave me the idea to look at the hood. Beats crawling under the truck for sure. Fixed it in my clean clothes!