100 Series General Tech and Classifieds (7 Viewers)

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What is the difference between the 60000 and the 60001? I think both are designated sport. You're correct, but of the two styles of front sport shocks, the 60001 is listed as a "firmer shock."

My torsion bars are turned all the way up, then about half a turn back. You think I'll want to adjust them back a bit more with the 866 springs on? Are you running factory or OME torsion bars? Either way, you're supposed to run a minimum amount of front droop. I don't know if it's the same with factory bars, but I think it's like 2.75 inches with OMEs. The more turned up they are, the more harsh your front ride will be and the more likely you'll be to reach full extension of your shocks. The PO running fully-cranked OMEs is what ruined both my front shocks and upper ball joints (and maybe even my lower ball joints). I dunno if the factory bars are strong enough to overcome the rebound of the OME shocks, but I can tell you the OME bars are.....You shouldn't have to turn up your front bars nearly as much to level out a truck with 866s
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I don't know how to make things yellow so I'll just reply the low-tech way. :D

I'm running factory torsion bars. It sounds like with the 866 springs, I'll be able to back those off some and level things out/improve the ride/not kill my truck so quickly. And not add OME torsion bars?

I default to firm.

TJK
 
I don't know how to make things yellow so I'll just reply the low-tech way. :D

I'm running factory torsion bars. It sounds like with the 866 springs, I'll be able to back those off some and level things out/improve the ride/not kill my truck so quickly. And not add OME torsion bars?
I default to firm.
TJK

I can't keep up with you and Grog...is this the same 100, or a fairly newly aquired one?
 
That sir, is a great question and I have a great answer.

The same one! For three-plus years now. :D

And then I started tinkering....

TJK
 
Well - the OME have to be better than OEM with 140,000 miles on them. (And I get a little discount from ARB.)
 
I would put the springs in the rear and ease off the front TBs until it has a tiny rake.

Diff drop.....meh. I guess. It's cheap but my last one did fine without.

Todd does not need it.

His CVs did not leak after he cranked the front. That's rare. Most don't react well to the angle change.
 
I am stoked I got the new rear springs in today and hope to knock that out tomorrow after work.

Then sat replace the lower ball joints with the new 555 joints that I got from Amazon.com. It looks to be a bit tedious but sure beats buys a lower control arm.
 
Hello guys. I am coming over from Bayou State for some advice. I am wanting to add a lift kit and looking for pro and cons of the TJM, OME, Iron Man and slee heavies . Most of what I read is that iron man shocks are better than OME so I am leaning than way. Any one running fox 2.0?

Front bumper with m1200
Sliders on order
285/75/16 for now maybe 295/75 or 255/85 later
Drawers and bior HC in near future

I have been driving 3/4 ton truck for the past 8 years so I guessing a heavy rear setup would ride like non loaded truck until I add the rear bumper and drawers.

Looking forward to SCC
 
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I was just amazed when I changed out the OME shocks on my 62 what a better ride I got. I didn't like how firm the 4 runner was but when fully loaded it rode great.

Save as the 100. I slee springs ride better and I want to replace the shocks with the fox that everyone says rides softer like OE.

I know some swear by OME. It is good but I think just over rebound on the springs.
 
I was just amazed when I changed out the OME shocks on my 62 what a better ride I got. I didn't like how firm the 4 runner was but when fully loaded it rode great.

Save as the 100. I slee springs ride better and I want to replace the shocks with the fox that everyone says rides softer like OE.

I know some swear by OME. It is good but I think just over rebound on the springs.
JBo, I tend to agree with both you and Nolen. I've used OME in the past, primarily because it was the least expensive way to reach my goal, and their systems have always "worked." Are there better components available out there? Almost everyone says yes (Fox, Radflo, Iron Man, etc.) Only problem is some of those names, like RadFlo, Fox and King will cost you as much for shocks as a complete OME or Iron Man suspension!

I'm gonna try some of those brands at some point, but they sure can get awfully spendy!
 
I called around for prices. Iron Man constant load with foam shocks $750 and TJM $795. Neither kit has a cv drop. Or OME, slee heavy springs and cv drop for $1125.

No one in our club has a lifted 100 so I don't know which one is best.
 
I called around for prices. Iron Man constant load with foam shocks $750 and TJM $795. Neither kit has a cv drop. Or OME, slee heavy springs and cv drop for $1125.

No one in our club has a lifted 100 so I don't know which one is best.

I think you have your answer.

Iron Man + Slee Drop kit
 
My 2 inch iron man lift and slee diff drop road great.
no bumpers
Eli at IM is awesome with customer service
 
I called around for prices. Iron Man constant load with foam shocks $750 and TJM $795. Neither kit has a cv drop. Or OME, slee heavy springs and cv drop for $1125.

No one in our club has a lifted 100 so I don't know which one is best.

Send a PM to Tabraha here on Mud. He has Shush's old truck, with the IronMan foam cell shock suspension package and Slee diff drop kit. Also has added front and rear bumpers. He'll be able to give you good feedback on that combination.
 

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