Perhaps your 4Lo actuator has failed. I would look under the truck at the transfer case for an actuator housing?
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Transfer Case Tuneup and Fix (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter TeCKis300
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bloc
SILVER Star
US 200s don’t have 4x4/4x2 like the tundra/sequoia, they are full-time AWD. Unless these instructions also apply to the diff lock actuator I think they should be revisited.
Ahhh...yes, I forgot. Landcruisers are full time AWD.
Hack question. I'm unable to find this raw motor. Messaged 6 12v motor sellers on eBay with the number and none had it. I am going to attempt to disassemble and repair (nothing to lose).
I would rather have 4x4 Hi than nothing. I know the lower actuator (4lo) motor works. So I'm contemplating scavenging that motor, soldering it up to the upper actuator head, and at least have 4Hi...
Talk me off the ledge!
I would rather have 4x4 Hi than nothing. I know the lower actuator (4lo) motor works. So I'm contemplating scavenging that motor, soldering it up to the upper actuator head, and at least have 4Hi...
Talk me off the ledge!
So right now you’re stuck in 4lo . . .?
I can't believe this worked....2008 Sequoia Limited - 143k miles
Caveat being that 4Hi now works but 4Lo beeps and flashes at me..I think it's the gear timing. I'll tackle that later.
Here's what I did-
Attempted 4Lo in Neutral, got an audible beep and visual error. I think know why.
I hope the repair holds but I know I will be militant about exercising the 4WD from now on. I hope this helps someone else in this position.
It's hard to fathom that a $12 high torque DC motor could cause such expensive repairs!
Caveat being that 4Hi now works but 4Lo beeps and flashes at me..I think it's the gear timing. I'll tackle that later.
Here's what I did-
- Remove the rock guards from the actuator housing. 12 mm I think.
- Remove 3 connections and one vent hose. Tuck it up around the brake lines out of the way.
- With stubby Philips head screwdriver, remove the TOP actuator head. I think it was 5 screws.
- Gentle rotate the head and lift off. Note I would try and get a finger in the gap and hold the gear and spring tension cam (not sure what to call that thing).
- Remove the head and investigate for failure points. Mine had corrosion on the motor retaining bracket and was the likely point of failure. Contacts were still spot welded and gears / grease looked good.
- Using a multi-meter, I tested the small switch. Good continuity.
- Using a 12v Jump box, attempted to cycle the motor with some jumpers. Dead motor. Nothing happened.
- Searched high and low online for the motor (RS-455PB-3050) but could not find it.
- Searched for a local pick-a-part salvage yard. Could not find a suitable Tundra / Sequoia. Plus, even if I could, perhaps they would not sell me just the actuator, instead making me buy the whole transfer case? Regardless, things looked grim....
- With nothing to lose, I decided to try surgery on the motor. MARK THE HOUSING AND END PLATE WITH A SHARPIE!! Orienting will be much easier upon assembly. Ask me how I know this is very important...
- Peeled the motor straight up after removing the screws. This severed the contact welds cleanly without bending anything.
- Using a very small flat head screwdriver and a very small channel lock pliers, I peeled the tabs back that hold the metal end plate. DO NOT cut of the small plastic tips sticking through the end plate. I did, that was not necessary and a pain to get back in place.
- Using two small flat screwdrivers, I carefully leveraged the gear off the shaft. It's a friction fit only.
- Gently tapping the gear side shaft on the workbench, the end plate eventually came out of the housing.
- Here is where the failure was made obvious. The Pick Up (part where the brushes make contact) had one section completely brown with surface corrosion / patina. I guess this where some water intrusion sat long enough to cause it. I also speculate that because I did not cycle the 4x4 for a couple of years, this static position of the motor was allowed to corrode....this is a WAG.
- Using a fresh pink eraser and a can of contact cleaner, I carefully removed the Pick Up corrosion and clean the entire rotor until it's shiny.
- I also took some 400 grit sand paper and went over the rotor metal, carefully. Forgot to mention, I inspected the winding wires connection points for failure, too.
- Time for Reassembly....
- NOTE, very important, be sure that the RED (+) plastic mark near the outside contact is at the 3 O Clock position to the motor housing. I failed to mark the body and end plate orientation and had to break the epoxy and re-assembly it...so don't do that.
- Using a pair of bent-nose needle nose pliers, I opened the brushes up and placed the rear shaft back into the rear plate bearing.
- Holding both the Rotor and the End Plate together, carefully feed the assembly back into the housing. The magnets will grab the assembly quickly and pull it into position, so move fast.
- Check the end plate and body orientation.
- Using a socket on the gear shaft side to hold the body up, I used a smaller socket to gently and evenly press the end plate into position. Working incrementally, I check the free rotation of the shaft regularly. If it was binding, I'd tap the gear shaft on the table slightly, freeing it up, and resume assembly.
- As you would guess, end plate bearing alignment is the critical part of the assembly.
- Once the end plate appears seated in the body properly, and you've rotated the shaft by hand easily, carefully bend the small body tabs back down. I also had to put beads of epoxy on the through-holds of the end plate, to make up for me cutting them off, thereby separating the end plate and the plastic brush / contact assembly. Again, NO NEED to separate them.
- Using the jump box, I confirmed the motor worked in both polarities.
- Install the motor and screw everything down.
- Note I put the motor contacts INSIDE the housing body pickups, using their natural spring tension to press on the motor contacts. I then put a bead of solder on both.
- GEARING - I scoured YouTube and found some Arab videos of a similar Toyota actuator. The attached screenshot is what I used as my alignment guide for the TOP HEAD. The bottom head (HiLo), is misaligned very slightly but I know what I did wrong. Luckily, it's easy to get to so I'll fix it shortly.
- Reassembly on the top head is a pain. I kept my finger holding the gear in place as I turned it upside down and put it in position.
- Once close to the installed actuator body, I had to gently rotate back a forth a few degrees for the gear shaft to seat. Once it seats, the assembly settles into position easily.
- Reinstall 5 screws.
- Attach 3 electrical connections
- Turn truck on, check for 4x4 flashing error. There was none.
- Attach vent tube, secure with a zip tie.
- Install rock guards.
Attempted 4Lo in Neutral, got an audible beep and visual error. I think know why.
I hope the repair holds but I know I will be militant about exercising the 4WD from now on. I hope this helps someone else in this position.
It's hard to fathom that a $12 high torque DC motor could cause such expensive repairs!
I hope this holds for you. If it doesn't work out, you can buy a new dual-motor assembly for about $900. Partsouq says the part # for the 2012-2016 is
36410-60113. They show it as about $600 but I assume that's used. They have part #s for other model years as well.
www.toyotapartsdeal.com
36410-60113. They show it as about $600 but I assume that's used. They have part #s for other model years as well.
36410-60113 Genuine Toyota ACTUATOR Assembly, Trans
ToyotaPartsDeal.com offers the great deal for genuine Toyota parts 36410-60113 (3641060113) ACTUATOR Assembly, Trans for $1128.80. All parts are backed by the Toyota's warranty.
www.toyotapartsdeal.com
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Thinking about rehabbing both of mine - can you describe a little how you ensured you kept the gearing/teeth correct?
Anyone know a source for the yellow grease? Maybe there is enough floating around and it's not necessary, but I will be taking mine apart soon and I'd like to know what that grease is if I need it.
See the screenshot for the upper (4wd) actuator gear alignment. That's what I used and it worked. Be sure you hold it in place given the assembly is upside down upon assembly.
For the lower assembly, I wrongly left the micro switch alignment in the gap vs. aligning to be be engaged (closed?) right on the edge of the cam. When I attempt to engage 4LO, I get the Christmas lights and it fails....I've been lazy to get under there and fix it. I'm confident that's the issue.
I had enough sidelined grease that I just repurposed what was there. If you find a source, please post it here!
Just adding this for future reference. Toyota sells this grease in small qualities as part number 08887-02007. More than enough for the actuator, but you can also use it on other electrical motor components like mirrors/wiper motors etc.
Update: It's Molykote YM-102
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Fantastic! Thank you.Just adding this for future reference. Toyota sells this grease in small qualities as part number 08887-02007. More than enough for the actuator, but you can also use it on other electrical motor components like mirrors/wiper motors etc.Trying to figure out the exact Molykote number in the event it's no longer available from Mr T.
Update: It's Molykote YM-102
Also:
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Now if we can just find OEM the motor alone!
Excellent write up. I'm getting ready to tackle this soon. Besides the contacts in the microswitch and flushing out the motor with CRC, can you point me to where else you addressed oxidation/corrosion? Is it on the surface under the gear where it looks like the grease is missing?
I'm afraid I have to dig in there myself. I really like this stuff for contacts. Amazon product ASIN B0164Q13OA
This is what I bought for the contacts. I also bought the aerosol version to spray out the brushes.
- Thread starter
- #37
Yup. The tarnished half moon tracks on the wiper switches showed corrosion and pitting
I pulled both actuators apart. I sprayed out the inside of the diff lock motor first and then ran it with my voltage supplier. I didn't realize how slow it was until I did the same for the lo/hi motor. The lo/hi motor was screaming fast. I assume theyre both supposed to be the same speed at the same supplied voltage/amps? I may pull the actuator back out to see if I can clean the brushes better to get more speed. I tested them at 12v and 1.0 amp. Any idea what amperage these motors normally pull?
The inside of the contact switch was badly oxidized. In fact the entire surface was black. Definitely recommend pulling the switch apart to clean it. My hi/lo switch continuity was intermittent when tested on the bench. It was fine after cleaning.
The half moon contact surface that appeared oxidized cleaned right off with a q-tip. I think it was mainly burnt grease.
edit: just tested both actuators and they work fantastic! Thank you to the pioneers who figured this out!
The inside of the contact switch was badly oxidized. In fact the entire surface was black. Definitely recommend pulling the switch apart to clean it. My hi/lo switch continuity was intermittent when tested on the bench. It was fine after cleaning.
The half moon contact surface that appeared oxidized cleaned right off with a q-tip. I think it was mainly burnt grease.
edit: just tested both actuators and they work fantastic! Thank you to the pioneers who figured this out!
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- Thread starter
- #39
^Great to hear! I likewise was shocked at the degree of improved motor performance once I cleaned them with CRC cleaner. No idea what amps they pull, which may also be governed by electronics upstream An Italian tune-up won't hurt a thing if providing a larger supply.
This problem seems to be systemic, across all of Toyota's range of 4x4s. It's amazing how much better things perform after this fix.
Working on this reminds me of my days playing with RC cars and motors. Fun stuff.
This problem seems to be systemic, across all of Toyota's range of 4x4s. It's amazing how much better things perform after this fix.
Working on this reminds me of my days playing with RC cars and motors. Fun stuff.
I have to say the biggest culprit appeared to be inside the micro switch. If you're pulling the actuator, definitely follow TeCkis300's lead and disassemble the micro switch. It's very oxidized inside there.
I built RC cars as a kid too. Lol.
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