WS ATF Flush Procedure (1 Viewer)

[UGN]

Performed a partial replacement of the fluid yesterday from the ATF pan (I did a full replacement last year). I noticed the transmission had a slipping sensation while upshifting on an even road (There was a delay and the AT would upshift with higher RPMs like if I had an extra load). It's possible because of the Lubegard ATF Protectant I added during the full replacement.

I did not want to replace all fluid again as it was new since the last year. As the drain plug is located at the end of the pan and it's higher than the front I parked on ramps while the rear tires were on the ground. I was able to drain 4 liters exactly as if I would removed the pan when people reported more fluid was inside of it.

Hopefully this will eliminate the slipping sensation. The old "new" fluid was dark red compared to the new one.

 

[Verybadwizard]

In the picture i circled in gold where i plan to detach cooler line. I wanted to double check that im thinking about this correctly. Is this in fact the return line? I will be following a similar procedure as seen in this video. Transmission Fluid Replacement. I believe this will be the most effective at flushing the whole system. Any advice or caution is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

PS I will be dropping pan and cleaning before flushing.

 

[Verybadwizard]

I couldn't find a definitive torque sequence from Toyota for the pan bolts on A750F transmission. I found the below diagram for a 4 runner with a A340F trans. Would this be okay to follow? is it a totally different sequence? Here is the website i found it on.

 

[menancyandsam]

Do you think it would be easier access to drain the ATF from the lower left (blue) hose, the one coming out of the Trans. cooler.

 

[Verybadwizard]

Do you think it would be easier access to drain the ATF from the lower left (blue) hose, the one coming out of the Trans. cooler.

Yeah, it probably would have been easier. I wanted to send new fluid through as much of the system as possible. There's quite a bit of space once you get the skid plate off. So that's nice.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

I couldn't find a definitive torque sequence from Toyota for the pan bolts on A750F transmission. I found the below diagram for a 4 runner with a A340F trans. Would this be okay to follow? is it a totally different sequence? Here is the website i found it on.
View attachment 2322441

I wasn’t aware of this document when I did mine but I just felt I had to criss-cross from one side to the other. I also don’t have a 3/8” torque wrench so I just hand-tighten these bolts, didn’t went baboon crazy tightening them. 6,000 miles now with the new OEM gasket and it is dry as the desert.

 

[Verybadwizard]

I finished the pan drop and flush on my 2004 lx470. It went well and i learned a few things. I may have misinterpreted the schematic for the direction the transmission fluid flows or its wrong in the diagram. Either way, It worked opposite the way i thought. I learned that the hot transmission fluid comes from the transmission into the bottom of the radiator on the drivers side. It then exists the radiator on the passengers side and enters the transmission cooler from the top and then exits the transmission cooler from the bottom. I intercepted the flow of the transmission fluid after it had exited the transmission cooler and was headed back to transmission right at the blue arrow in the picture below.

Blue arrow is going back to trans. Red arrow heading to bottom of radiator on driver side.

I disconnected the return line and collected old fluid from there. I had a whole plan to pressurize a line and pump into the return line but ended up running a line into fill port on transmission. Next time ill try pumping with my pressurized bucket directly into return line.

Here are some pictures of the state of my transmission pan magnets, and strainer. I don't believe the transmission pan has ever been dropped and cleaned. According to Lexus service records and dirtiness of components. Truck has 178,000 miles.

 

[Verybadwizard]

After i sprayed off strainer this is what was in bucket. I used 3 and a half cans of brake clean to get it all cleaned out.

 

[Verybadwizard]

I got everything cleaned up and put back together. I pre-marked my torque pattern to avoid a mistake.

Remember. When checking the fluid level get your vehicle up to temp and open check valve while engine is running. I opened check valve with engine off and i lost a little over a quart. I went from perfect amount of fluid to one quart low. I have driven about 100 miles now and everything is looking great.

One thing i have not been able to find is the Fill Gasket part #: 90080-30075 . The part the Toyota parts department gave me was not correct. It was a gasket but it was really small. I just ended up reusing the old one and ill continue my search for the right part. The Toyota parts dept. near me couldn't even find the part from the transmission diagram. It was a diagram of the A750F but nowhere could we locate the fill plug or gasket.

Here is my collection of info for doing the job i found on this thread and others.

39 in-lbf (INCH), pan bolts.
7 ft-lbf or 84 Inch-pounds, strainer bolts
15 ft-lbf drain plug, crush washer
15 ft-lbf overflow plug, crush washer
29 ft-lbf refill plug, o-ring

1/4id 3/8 od clear pvc
3/8id 1/2od clear pvc

TEMP for checking fluid level - 97F(36C) to 115F(46C)

Tools needed:
- 14mm socket for drain plug
- Torx 30 for overflow plug
- 24mm socket for fill plug
- 10mm socket + extension for pan and strainer bolts
- 12mm socket for engine under cover

 

[Brentok]

Knocked this out today. Following are a few notes on the process-- although I think it's all covered in these threads Thanks to all..

I did the exchange at the top of the cooler. I connected 3/8 ID 1/2 OD vinyl to the cooler (fit perfect) and that went to the pressurized fill bottle. I used a brass 3/8 to 1/2 hose barb putting the 3/8 end in the rubber hose disconnected from the cooler, and then connected the 1/2 end of the barb to some 1/2 ID 5/8 OD vinyl tubing. that end went to a measured bucket. I used some 3/16 ID 5/16 OD vinyl tubing and cobbled up a connection to my air supply. Drilled a couple holes in the cap of the pressurized fill bottle for the fluid and air tube. I cranked the air down about as far as the regulator would go-- barely off of the 0 on the gauge. At that pressure it took about 2 minutes to pump 3 quarts back into the cooler. Process worked really well, pumping 3 quarts in and out at a time. I just pumped slightly more in than I got out and ended up draining about 1/2 quart out the overflow when got up to about 110 deg via techstream. I ended up using 15 quarts, but the last 3 probably weren't 100% necessary. Very straightforward and clean compared to most tranny fluid changes. Pic of the setup below.

 

[Bryemc]

I’m new to this site. Thanks for all the great info. I just acquired a 07 gx470 with 137k miles. The original owner over heated and burned the engine up. We replaced it with a 08 engine and it’s running good. Since original engine over heated is it safe to assume the tranny was over heated? I’m planning to do a fluid exchange soon. A new filter/strainer isnt that much. Should I go ahead and change it? Anything else I should consider if tranny was over heated?

 

[wadsworth]

Finally completed this service yesterday and found it relatively painless, thanks to the great contributions in this thread. Adding a few more tidbits here which may be useful...

* Penzoil Multi-Use Hand Pump - worked way better than expected. This new-style pump is very effective, easy to handle and transferred the fluid quickly. Guessing it was around 6-8 pumps to empty a quart-sized container.

* Magnet placement - Found a suggestion in this video regarding magnet placement. The idea being to raise the magnets up so there's more surface area available for attracting metal shavings.

 

[04UZJ100]

Where did you get that transmission fluid with the Aisin logo on it? Is it WS?

 

[wadsworth]

Yep, it's AISIN ATF0WS from RockAuto.

 

[zhloea]

Thanks for this fantastic post! I plan to do a flush next week, I am still a little dread do this with pull off the return line, and I probably do this by just "drain - filling - running - drain" many times to achieve the "fully flush". Have a couple of questions below:
1. my gig is a 04 LC100 using WS ATF, which has a little hesitant shifting when uphill, so will the Valvlione Max life ATF (said compatible with WS) be better than OEM Toyota WS?
2. Should I add on a little Lucas trans slipping fix during the last refill?
3. Do we recommend using the Trans pan gasket 3516860010 or toyota FIPG? or some kind of combination?

Thanks!

 

[abuck99]

Leave the pan on or proceed with caution. There very little benefit to pulling it- filters are normal clean and little to no debris in magnets. Sometimes the bolts that hold the pan can break, or strip so be careful.


I think people here have posted they’ve had good luck with max life atf but most here including myself would suggest Toyota WS or AISIN WS (lower cost same stuff)

I wouldn’t use any additives, cleaners, only fresh trans fluid.

Be sure you don’t run the trans dry with flush and drain from return hose method- otherwise it introduces air bubbles and more work.

Get the fluid level check right by the book (FSM) and you’ll be good to go. Edit: check temp has been amended from FSM print date- new check range is 97-115F

 

[zhloea]

Leave the pan on or proceed with caution. There very little benefit to pulling it- filters are normal clean and little to no debris in magnets. Sometimes the bolts that hold the pan can break, or strip so be careful.


I think people here have posted they’ve had good luck with max life atf but most here including myself would suggest Toyota WS or AISIN WS (lower cost same stuff)

I wouldn’t use any additives, cleaners, only fresh trans fluid.

Be sure you don’t run the trans dry with flush and drain from return hose method- otherwise it introduces air bubbles and more work.

Get the fluid level check right by the book (FSM) and you’ll be good to go. Edit: check temp has been amended from FSM print date- new check range is 97-115F

Thanks man, since you mentioned the risk of drop pan, I will do just refill the trans, let's see if it will be improved.

 

[7210usmc]

An easier option is just drain the pan a few times over a week. I took an orange home depot bucket and filled it with one quart of water, marked it on the bucket. Then added another quart of water, market it on the bucket, repeat until I had 10 quarts market on the bucket. They probably sell buckets with these markings on them. Every oil change I drain the pan and add between 3.5 quarts cold and 3.9 quarts warm. Whatever it shows on the bucket I replace. Simple and easy, I believe this is better for the transmission over the long run since it's always getting fresh stuff. There is however no real evidence to back this up. I will say the ATF looks great every time I dump it.

This seems like a great solution for a novice like me. Any expert opinion on why this is option may not be so ideal?

 

[zhloea]

This seems like a great solution for a novice like me. Any expert opinion on why this is option may not be so ideal?

Yeah, I will go with this with my shaking wet hands...

 

[abuck99]

This seems like a great solution for a novice like me. Any expert opinion on why this is option may not be so ideal?

Ive done this on mine for a couple years. The drawback, can’t see any other than the hassle of multiple level check procedures, and increased chance of stripping drain plug.