Trailer hitch quieter/ anti-rattle .... need help from you fabricators! (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Aug 4, 2004
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Location
Spokane WA, USA
On just about every receiver I ever owned there was an extra layer of steel welded to the rear opening for reinforcement, which allows use of a u-bolt style quieter. The 200 factory receiver is WAY different. It has a flush face in back, and an actual skid plate/ slider underneath, plus what I think is a rectangular hole for a jack. On top the reinforcing plate slopes back to join the rear cross member. There is no direct way to attach any kind of aftermarket “slop remover” to this... it is a pretty darn cool design however. But a frustrating one!

My receiver has oversized pin holes plus all kinds of clearance between the square hole and the ball mount. Plus the left pin hole seems extra worn....

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Ignore the blue plastic, I broke the retainer removing the stupid plastic shield. This is what I would like to use:

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But there is nothing for the u-bolt to grab on to. Bottom of receiver, showing the jack hole (?):

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I need to be able to anchor the ball mount DOWN when not towing using the weight distributing hitch (when I am using it as a dead weight hitch, or with no trailer at all). Normally when towing with my Anderson Hitch all the load is directed straight up and there is zero movement. When not towing, there is an inch of motion at the ball, which I want gone.

The best thing I could think of is to fabricate a really heavy duty S-hook from, say, 1/2 x 1 inch bar stock, one end would insert into the jack opening, the other end would lie under the u-bolt. But not actually touching the ball mount.

Any comments about this approach?

Any better suggestions? I can’t use the type of quieter that goes inside the mount since it is not hollow.

I did read that welding a bead around the opening while the ball mount was inserted would shrink the metal tight. That would be OK, but I do not want to have to remove the entire rear bumper to weld the receiver...

Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

John Davies
Spokane WA
 
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Can you post a pic? I can’t envision where the plate goes, and without any kind of lip on the opening, what it grabs onto. Stock pic.....

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Thanks.

John Davies
Spokane WA
 
Instead of welding the receiver, you can instead opt to put a bead on the shank/stinger. Perhaps even a larger bead, then metal file her down to a nice snug fit. That's prob what I would do as it avoids the extra tightener gadget. And the shank/stinger is easy enough to bring to just about any welding shop.
 
Probably no need to fabricate. Etrailer has lots of options. Here is one page among many on their site that also has links to many pages of others, like pin tighteners.

Hitch Tightener | etrailer.com
 
^Wow, all these varieties of tighteners! Never knew.

I'd offer to put a bead down for you on that stinger if you were local. It's super easy. Any shop, exhaust shop, fab shop, could do it in under 10 minutes for like $20. Probably even a beer.
 
Stinger indeed. My wdh visibly causes folks to stay further back!

So all these things, like the amazon link, are to keep it from rattling? Is that about it? Maybe i need one despite minimal rattle.
 
The hitch on these rigs is an irritant. There are few hitch locks that fit and they are a pain to get on or off. I thought I had found one with a nice pin and lock that was 90 degrees to the pin but it doesn’t fit between the pin and frame. The lock that I use is on the “end” of the lock so I have to try to turn the key while holding the lock from turning and pushing the pin in so the key isn’t binding. Because I cut my cover down to minimize the visual it is even more crammed in there. And, of course, I have four different trailers with different inserts so I am keeping the lock from seizing up anyway.

But no rattle on my three inserts.
 
I had my airbags installed today by a local race shop (Hazzard Fab Worx - a great bunch of guys) and they made this up for me for $50. It plugs into the rectangular cavity under the OEM receiver and supplies two beefy hooks for the U-bolt style tightener to attach to. I have not towed anything with it yet, but it appears to be beyond rock solid.... no dinky spot welds from these guys. LOL.

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Thanks for the comments, I am now good to go, without rattles.

John Davies
Spokane WA
 
Install a anti rattle bolt.
Remove the receiver, drill a hole in the towbar hitch tube and tap it (install a thread)
Reinstall your receiver back in and tighten the bolt enough to stop it rattling.
 
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FWIW I have this hitch shank (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EOV4NS/) and this master lock barbell-style locking hitch pin with a secondary sleeve (https://www.amazon.com/MASTER-LOCK-1481DAT-1480DAT-2847DAT/dp/B00IQ2XKJW/) and mine has virtually no play. It's amazingly quiet, unlike my Thule bike rack which has to be screwed into place.

If you only have a little movement, wrap the end of the receiver hitch that you insert with a couple wraps of electrical tape. I did that on my old hitch with my Acura and it eliminated the slight movement and kept it very quiet as well (and cost about $0.03).
 
Here you go. I find a washer that fits tight on top and beside the hitch post then duct tape them in place. Been doing this for years and it works.

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I wanted to thank John E Davies. I contacted his fabricator and they welded up one for me. I used it this weekend for a rattle free tow experience! Thanks for posting up....
 
I used this one from amazon .. seems to be working fine so far.
It arrived black and not as pictured.

It's a wedge, so tapped it in with a hammer.

Amazon product ASIN B00LV18KWM
 
Can someone share the contact for the shop? And also what are they calling this so I can know what to ask for.
 

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