Deisel Conversion for LC 100 Series

[jhkilmer]

Just hoping to find information about converting my 1999 TLC to deisel. I know there are 100 series in the UK, south africa, australia, etc so it seems possible, but I've had a hard time finding info on it. Maybe I'm not looking in the right places, but I'm hoping some people can help here. Any information, or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. One of my thoughts is running Bio-Deisel since gas prices are getting high. My fathe-in-Law whats to start producing it, so I'm eager to hear of possibilities. Give me good news!! Thanks



1999 Toyota Landcruiser (lightly modified...so far)
2001 Subaru Outback VDC

 

[Mickldo]

Heaps of diesel and turbo-diesels over here in OZ. What exactly do you need to know? Most of the conversion should be the same as an 80 conversion but with a few minor differences ie;wiring.

 

[jhkilmer]

Diesel Conversion

What engine do I look for. In international models I've seen the 1HZ Diesel used, is that what you recommend? Can I use the existing automatic transmission? Where should I look for the engine? Is there any repair manual that would help me with the conversion? I have seen toyota landcruiser diesel repair manuals on the web, but I only see them periodically. I'm not experienced with LC, but have replaced a couple engines with my dad in other vehicles, so I'm not a complete rookie.

 

[jhkilmer]

Turbo

Another question, should I look for factory Turbo charged diesel engines, or naturally aspirating? Are their aftermarket turbos that I could install that are better then factory? Thanks

 

[70sguy]

If you are going to go to the effort I would go for factory Turbo 1HD-T/FT/FTE
In the case of an 100 the only way to go is a half cut IMO. ESPECIALLY since the TD engines in the 100 are Electronic controled.

 

[Tapage]

Here in Panamá all 100 series come with 1HD-T ( yes ) and 1HD-FTE .. both with H442 that I seen .. of course the local dealer offer the H151 with no much luck for now.

Exist also the 105 option but this one are offered by the local dealer only with 1HZ and H150 tranny.

 

[jhkilmer]

Where can I get one?

So where can I get one of these engines? Are there importers, dealers, etc? Can I use the transmission in the truck now, or do I need to replace that too? Thanks

 

[brownbear]

70's guy above who posted you need a half cut is the source! Click on his website in his signature.

He is the man to hook you up. Go with the electronic 1hd-t engine. Might as well be as close to real non USA you can be.

Just remember the cost of doing this conversion is not for fuel savings. It will take you 20 years to pay off the cost. Expect in excess of 10k for all the goodies including engine.

IMOP it is worth it to have a new diesel cruiser. But I am slightly bias.

But you will not see the recover for fuel savings in the short term. Running bio will make the saving come quicker tho.

Take the cost of bio to make your self, average 25-40 cents a liter. Then times that by you annual fuel consumption. Count on 20 mpg US. Or more. But stay on the low side. How many Kms do you drive a year....???

Do the math. The added cost might buy you gas for five to ten years.

I hate gassers.

 

[brownbear]

Also consider what ever engine you buy is same or newer than the truck. Otherwise it maybe hard to register in your state or if you sell in other states.

 

[70sguy]

I wouldn't even know were to start with a 100 series...
I have yet to see one halfcut donor 100 diesel become available.
Maybe try and find a wreck out of AUS to have cut and shipped.

 

[harveya]

Easiest conversion would be a 1HD-T or 1HZ - I would go for the 1HD-T personally. You won't have issues with trying to hook up an ECU that you would with the 1HD-FTE.

Thes sometimes come up on eBAY but generally I have seen them in the UK so shipping would be an issue.

Best option I would see would be to import a half cut 80 from Japan, get the whole front end lip with engine, transmission, transfer case, wiring harness etc.

If you need to do this on your own you need to get a factory manual for the engine to make sure that you get all the wiring correct. The 100 has a lot of electronics around the dash that you don't want to muck up otherwise you will send all the indicator lamps into madness.

 

[jhkilmer]

half cut??

Okay, just for clarification, I'm a newbie, what does "half cut" mean? Also, thanks for the personal observation about fuel savings. I just hope that I can find a good source for production of Bio-diesel. Gas prices are not going down, and will only continue to increase, so I think I can pay off the cost of the engine/bio production in 5-7 years. I have friends and family that want My wife loves the LC so much she wants to keep it forever! Also, how much time do you think it would take to install by a professional? I have some really great mechanics that I have used in the past, and I would probably have one of them do it. I don't trust myself with all of the wiring, etc.

 

[bkfj40]

with the revisions in the importation laws, you might have a hard time if the half-cut doesn't have an epa sticker on it....and a DOT sticker....

bk

 

[rick_d]

sorry for the bad news, but a 1/2 cut hdt-fte would be impossible if the donor is defined as a passenger vehicle. EPA rules have cut offs for engines and horsepower production (see epa site and dig around) but I believe it's 1997 for 150hp +.

That being said, I know of a HDT-FTE for sale in Los Angeles, but you will have to spend the money, time, etc sourcing everything else (no, It's not at SOR).

I will say conservativly you will be into the conversion $12,000 with your own labor.

Your guess and calcs to offset fuel vs time but I'll bet $100 it's more than 7 years.

-rick
w/ hd-t self-converted 70- series in Tucson, az

 

[jhkilmer]

Conversion

Thanks for your thoughts. I'm spending about $2500 a year gas, and with prices increasing I'll be spending more. So over 7 years that's $17500 on gas. Also, I have a source of oil for Bio production, and friends/family that are willing to split the cost of production.

For a large truck/suv like a LC 100, a diesel is perfect! Plus I love the concept of bio.....lower cost, lower emmisions, diesel toughnest, /torque, plus everyone around you will start craving french fries!!

Does anyone have pics of a conversion, or international 100 series with a diesel? I like to just see the setup!!

 

[harveya]

sorry for the bad news, but a 1/2 cut hdt-fte would be impossible if the donor is defined as a passenger vehicle. EPA rules have cut offs for engines and horsepower production (see epa site and dig around) but I believe it's 1997 for 150hp +.

That being said, I know of a HDT-FTE for sale in Los Angeles, but you will have to spend the money, time, etc sourcing everything else (no, It's not at SOR).

I will say conservativly you will be into the conversion $12,000 with your own labor.

Your guess and calcs to offset fuel vs time but I'll bet $100 it's more than 7 years.

-rick
w/ hd-t self-converted 70- series in Tucson, az

Would suggest a Hlaf cut of a 1990 or 1991 vehicle with a 1HD-T rather than going for the 1HD-FTE anyway, more likely to find one at a decent price and also the 1HD-T will be easier to fit than worrying about all the electronics on the 1HD-FTE.

 

[jhkilmer]

Is there a performance difference between the 1HD-T and the 1HD-FTE? Have you ever seen one in a 100 series?

 

[Tapage]

Is there a performance difference between the 1HD-T and the 1HD-FTE? Have you ever seen one in a 100 series?

Yap for sure ..

This is a easy example of a 100 sereis with the most powerfull Toyota Diesel engine ever made ... 1HD-FTE .. turbo Intercooled engine .. based on the 4.2 block .. but with a lot's of electronical parts.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

Maybe check the FAQ in the the technical links (top of page) and see my page for more info on these engines... 1HD-FTE is fully electronic, 1HD-FT is a 24 valve mechanical (hard to find), slightly less power, 1HD-T is 12 valve, mechanical. You want mechanical most likely for ease of conversion. The problem is 24volts to 12V (these diesels are mostly 24 volts, far supeerior in my opnion but makes it a bitch to convert), and your truck is 12V. Unless you do a turbo charged (1HD series), you will have a massive step down from your current V8. Even then, you will not produce the power and quality of drive your V8 has... The big PITA is making everything work, tach, speedo, and other things that will need to be base items in a 100 series Land Cruiser. If it were me, I would just buy another car IMO for the cost of a conversion, and I brew much of my own fuel as well. Also, it is a huge, time consuming thing to be a regular brewer that takes some investment ($2-3G easily when done right) and even then it doesn't always work because you have to share labor, costs etc. I am in my second go-around brewing, the first was good but group dynamics did not work well with about 4-5 guys. This second time with $3G and investments and three guys, and a professional shop and it is working very well. But we have at least 100 hours into building this processor too. Also, by far, the nastiest aspect is collecting/sourcing the grease. And even then, there are quality issues you have to deal with you can only use 20% of it in the winter because of gelling problems. Just my $.02, I have been brewing for over a year now and manage the Utah biodiesel coop... Andre

 

[harveya]

Maybe check the FAQ in the the technical links (top of page) and see my page for more info on these engines... 1HD-FTE is fully electronic, 1HD-FT is a 24 valve mechanical (hard to find), slightly less power, 1HD-T is 12 valve, mechanical. You want mechanical most likely for ease of conversion. The problem is 24volts to 12V (these diesels are mostly 24 volts, far supeerior in my opnion but makes it a bitch to convert), and your truck is 12V. Unless you do a turbo charged (1HD series), you will have a massive step down from your current V8. Even then, you will not produce the power and quality of drive your V8 has... The big PITA is making everything work, tach, speedo, and other things that will need to be base items in a 100 series Land Cruiser. If it were me, I would just buy another car IMO for the cost of a conversion, and I brew much of my own fuel as well. Also, it is a huge, time consuming thing to be a regular brewer that takes some investment ($2-3G easily when done right) and even then it doesn't always work because you have to share labor, costs etc. I am in my second go-around brewing, the first was good but group dynamics did not work well with about 4-5 guys. This second time with $3G and investments and three guys, and a professional shop and it is working very well. But we have at least 100 hours into building this processor too. Also, by far, the nastiest aspect is collecting/sourcing the grease. And even then, there are quality issues you have to deal with you can only use 20% of it in the winter because of gelling problems. Just my $.02, I have been brewing for over a year now and manage the Utah biodiesel coop... Andre

UK 1HD-T is 12V with 24V starting only with the starter voltage converter thingy. JDM ones are often 12v with 12V starting. Australian Market ones I think are all 24V but not sure on that one.

So if you want to do away with the 24V starting on a 1HD-T get a 12V starter, think I read that the 2LTE one is the same and is 12V