Isuzu 4BD1T swap part II : now w/ A440F auto

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Joined
Dec 31, 2009
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Location
Tucson
Ok, so I did my diesel swap with an Isuzu 4BD1T a year ago this month and have put about 15K miles on it since then and I really love this engine! It is so simple to work on and has plenty of power for an FJ60 and gets great MPGs compared to a 2F.
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I love this engine so much that a couple of months ago I found another NPR with the same engine and bought it for $1100 here in Tucson.
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I pulled the engine and tranny out and all the other pieces that I could use and then sold the carcass for $550 to a dismantler here in town. I want to do a swap in the wife's 80 series, but she wants an automatic. I was looking at this engine and tranny sitting on my run stand and I got to thinking about how I could adapt an A440F using the bell housing off the Isuzu automatic and bolting it to the front of the A440F. I did some measuring and thankfully the Isuzu bell housing is shorter than the Toyota, so that left some room for an adapter plate. I had some 6061 aluminum plate that was 5/8" thick left over from another project and so after some careful measurments of flexplate to torque converter spacing and other overall length measurements, I concluded that it was possible to pull this off. One of the best things about this conversion was that the factory Isuzu torque converter uses a large plate welded onto the back of the converter to adapt it to the Isuzu flexplate.
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This is perfect because it is all ready to turn into an adapter for the toyota torque converter. I carfully took my sawzall and sliced off the front of the Isuzu torque converter just above the base and voila, instant adapter plate!
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GREAT tech.. keep it coming.
 
I next chucked up the plate in a lathe and turned off the little lip you see in the last photo flush with the existing surface of the torque converter clutch face. Amazingly it is exactly the right thickness adapter plate at this point!

I then used the Toyota flexplate as a drill jig to drill the adapter plate for the bolt holes that hold the toyota torque converter onto the new adapter plate. (I should have taken a picture of this, but somehow I forgot to) Once I had the Toyota torque converter bolted up just slightly snug to the new adapter plate, I mounted it to the spare engine I have on the run stand and then used a dial indicator on the input shaft of the Toyota torque converter to make sure I got it dialed in with only a couple of thousanths of runout. Once I had it dialed in, I tightened it down tight on the adapter plate and then lightly tack welded it at the mounting blocks. I then rechecked it with the dial indicator to make sure it didn't move from the tack welding and then went around and ran small beads of weld on each mounting block to make sure it didn't move.
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It would probably be fine with just the bolts, but I feel better knowing that it is welded as well as bolted.

I then went to work on the adapter ring. I made a hub to hold my aluminum plate in the lathe and then turned it round and then turned down a lip that was .100" tall to locate the Isuzu bell housing on center and then I flipped the hub to the other side and turned out the center hole to fit over the Toyota oil pump on center as well.
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The center hole took some time to bore through the thickness of this plate. I think the next one I will do will be on a rotary table on the mill. I think this would be much faster and easier overall. I then had to cut a notch in the bottom corner as you see in this picture, to clear the front of the A440 oil pan where it protrudes out the front.
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At this point I just clamped the plate onto the tranny and used transfer punches to locate my holes for the Toyota side. After I got those drilled and countersunk, I just flipped it over onto the Isuzu bell housing and did the same thing with the transfer punches, making sure to get the correct orientation and the bellhousing upright to align with the toyota tranny sitting level.

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With everything bolted up and the adapter plate's nominal thickness now at .525" after machining the locating lip, and the torque converter plate being .625" thick (5/8") I ended up with about .085" gap between the torque converter and the flexplate. I talked to a couple of auto tranny guys and they told me that was just about the perfect amount for the converter to slide back against the flexplate and to remain engaged in the oilpumps drive lugs on the input shaft.

The only thing left to do was to shorten the rear drive shaft so I could take it for a spin. I really don't like taking in my drive shafts for shortening if I don't have to and being the DIY sort of guy that I am, I just built a simple alignment jig so I could weld my own driveshaft.
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I made it with just some scrap pieces of steel I had laying around and a large bearing with a base and some roller bearings up front to accurately spin the shaft to make sure it was straight. Some of my friends have said I am crazy for welding up my own shaft, but really it isn't that difficult and it's not rocket science. As long as you mark the orientation of everything before you cut and keep all of the joints in phase just exactly as they were, it should all be just as ballanced as it was before providing you do an even weld and not big gobs on one side and less on the other. This is a double cardan shaft out of a 2000 4runner and I measured it for runout before I cut it and it had .015" of runout. I cut it and tacked it and adjusted it down to .006" of runout and then carefully welded it in small increments making sure to go to opposite sides each time so as not to shrink any section too much and then ran a nice smooth bead over it all when I got all done. I then cut the hole in the tranny hump for the shifter and adjusted everything so it shifted correctly.
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And then took it out for a test drive and to my buddies amazement, I had absolutely no driveline vibration what so ever.

I have been driving it for two weeks now and I absolutely love it. This A440F and torque converter was out of a BJ74 with a 13BT. I sent the torque converter off to be rebuilt before I did the conversion because I didn't want to worry about that later on down the road. The shift points are about perfect for the Isuzu and the overdrive is a better ratio than the H55 I replaced. (I know a bunch of you will think I am crazy for swapping to an auto:flipoff2:) I actually prefer the simplicity of a standard transmission over an automatic, but I wanted to prove that this could be done before I tackle it on my wife's 80 series. I also wanted to give you do it yourself guys another transmission option for these Isuzu 4BD1T or 2T diesels. This is not a hard adaptation to do if you have some basic machine skills. I borrowed my buddy's lathe for about 2 hours one afternoon and the rest I did in my garage with my drill press hand tools and taps and dies.

Enjoy!

Don
 
Great approach! Great write up! Thanks for posting.
 
A-WE-SOME :D
 
This would be a cakewalk with the older Mitsu 4D34-1AT's... The engines are fully mechanical, if you used a bell/converter out of a 99-04 with a AW450-43LE on a A440F and the fully mechanical 1AT engine you'd be set... **wheels turning... STOP!!! haha

That's my plan for this spare trans I have here... I just need an engine and an FJ62 or an FJ80:D
 
Thanks for the kind words guys!

So what years did the Fuso come with the full mechanical 4D34-1AT ?

Just want to keep everyones gears turning. The more diesel engine options that we have the better!

Don
 
I haven't finished the first tank of diesel yet since the conversion, so I don't have any mpg numbers yet. I was getting 25 to 26 mpg before with the H55 tranny and I'm sure I lost at least a couple by going to the auto. But it is still going to be way better than the 13mpg that I was getting with the old worn out motor. If I had to guess, I would say it will be around 22 around town, but I will let you know.

I will have some numbers to post in a few days when this tank is finished.

Don
 
I want to say 1991-1998 had the fully mechanical 4D34-1AT

Only problem is I am not sure the engine bellhousing pattern is the same as the later AW450-43LE trucks. There is a guy in FLA on here that has one. Maybe I can get him to take a photo to compare with my spare bellhousing.
 
The 4D engines are all direct injected. IIRC the 4BD1/2 are all indirect injected, correct?
The 4BD1s are direct injected whereas the 4BD2s are indirect that is why most prefer the 4BD1s.
 
o what years did the Fuso come with the full mechanical 4D34-1AT ?

My 1992 4D34-1AT3's injection pump is controlled by an ECU. It will start and run without it, but the drivability would be poor without it. It requires an ECU for any timing advance and additional fuel delivery under boost. I bought the FSM. That's what it says anyway.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperHatch View Post
I want to say 1991-1998 had the fully mechanical 4D34-1AT
Only problem is I am not sure the engine bellhousing pattern is the same as the later AW450-43LE trucks. There is a guy in FLA on here that has one. Maybe I can get him to take a photo to compare with my spare bellhousing.

I'll take some pictures this weekend and post up
 
Holy cow Don! I had no idea that you would finish this so fast.I t absolutly looks fantastic and is so simple it makes me laugh. I look at how much time and energy people put into swaps and the stressors involved and this just blows them out of the water.

Bravo, Bravo. Well done sir.

clint
 
Hey thanks Clint!

The most time consuming part of this was sending off the torque converter for rebuilding. That took 2 weeks, and then building custom brackets in front of my radiator for dual tranny coolers to keep this beast cool during our hellish summers here in Tucson!

Tell your brother-in-law thanks again for the deal on the tranny and thank you for packin' it all up and getting it shipped for a great price! :beer:

How is the bigger turbo working out on the silver surfer? I posted on your thread but you never replied. You must be pretty busy on your days off.

Talk soon,
Don
 

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