1HDT fuel filter change interval

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Enigma

Enigma

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I was just reading a thread here where a bloke has been changing his fuel filter (on a 3B i think) every 5k...

I now know the recommended 5k oil/10k oil filter change, but I have yet to see anything for when the fuel filter on the 1HDT is to be changed?
I sure hope it is not 5k intervals, aftermarket or not, they are still spendy.
For what it's worth, I've had my 81 just over a year now, and put about 18,000 kilometers on it so far, with the same fuel filter. The oil/filter has been changed 3 times since then.
When I had my BEB done, I asked to have the fuel filter done, but it was stated it looked fine so was not replaced.
I do have a new Toyota fuel filter, but really the truck runs perfect, no stumbles, hesitation etc. I do run up to B50 bio-diesel somewhat often as well. I've been keeping track of my fuel mileage, and it has remained consistent.
 
It looked ok?? wow some one has stolen supermans x-ray vision. Thats riduclous, the only thing you might "see" is the condition of the fuel if you drain the water seperator section. Even if that was clear that dose not mean your filter is fine. The only way to "see" if its ok is to install a vaccum gauge post filter, get a base line vaccum number in inches on a new filter and use that to tell when its starting to clog. I normaly replace mine when i hit 7-8 inches of vaccum, baseline for me with a 2 micron filter (Racor system) is 4-5 inches clean. I believe numbers on a factory setup may be an inch or so lower concidering factory filtration is arround 30+ microns :eek: which is un acceptable to me.
 
Jeff, I believe it is every 30,000 kms or less (meaning you've got it clogged for some reason). When I first did a fuel system purge and then went to biodiesel, I went through 3 filters in less than 6 months. The first two were clogged with gunk and the second one was when I got caught with B40 in the tank and -12C (it waxed up the filter). Bad fuel is always a possibility, so carry a spare with you.
 
I would be interested to see how you plumbed the vacuum gauge into your filter
 
As i said, i installed a racor unit. The factory filter housing developed a small leak sucking in air, so i decided to upgrade. A similar setup to what i have done could be easily be adapted to the factory system with a barbed "T" fitting, a gauge and bracket. I strongly suggest to any one that finds themselves in the same position i was with a leaky factory housing to do something similar, as there are far superior filtration systems out there (not only racor) that allow you to filter and separate water at a much greater rate. The factory unit i believe filters down to 30-40 microns which to some is acceptable, and in many regions is fine as fuel quality varies from place to place. To me as i am in the heavy equipment industry this is not sufficient, i run 2 micron in the summer and 10 in the winter ( due to thickened properties in cold weather) and keep well with in the 10 in/vu region. The racor system i installed cost 200 bux with the first filter, a little spendy? yes but a replacement factory filter head was gonna run me 175 anyway. This at least gives me a larger filter with micron options.
Just my .02
fuel filter.webp
 
i have got a cav filter adaptor which screws onto the filter pirmer and then you just replace your cav filter with every oil change. cav filter under $5 cant beat that i say
 
Wow, sounds like a good deal if you have a good housing to go from. My racor's cost ; $19 for the 2 micron and $15 for the 10's. Do you have a link for this "cav" filter for everyones common knowledge? BTW what are its filtering flow rates @ particle size restriction specifications? Interested, as i may have went the over kill route.
 
I didn't realize that the factory filter was such a large particle size
 
Some Racor filters can accomodate the water sensor. Did you adapt this? there is a plastic hex nut with a slot in the bottom for a drain in the 45S What about 81 with the fuel heater?. You can buy marine filters for the stock housing with varying micron ratings and retain the stock housing. It is a Yanmar part that can be crossed over. Even Yanmar is cheaper than Toyota. I dont like the clear plastic bowl. It isnt allowed in marine applications due to fire/heat/vibe risk. Heavy equipment may be different, don't know about that- just marine.
 
These setups are common place in the heavy equip industry, and now that you mention it while i was sourcing it i noticed there was a "marine" part number and thought it was strange. This now makes sense i guess. I have setup the fuel heater with the factory intended wiring and relay (it wasent there on my truck but i put the relay and wiring into the blanks that were intended for this) but i have not hooked up the water senson yet ( altho this is more pertinant.... go figure:meh:) with the gauge its allowed me to monitor filter condition and play with micron ratings without half hazardly guessing and starving the IP. As many of us know clean and especially H2O free fuel is one of the key factors in a long pump life in these rotary style pumps as the fuel is also the lubricant for all its internals.
 
 
Jeff,

Getting back to your original question (though there has been some great info here for upgrading), I change my filter yearly. I do it in the spring after I'm done with using winter fuel.

I don't know what the manual might say, but I'm going to be doing it for the third year soon, and its been doing fine at that.

-J
 
I've been doing what Cruisin' has done...changing my filter (12H-T) once a year. I have a nice Racor filter, new, sitting in my crawl space...can't get motivated to crawl into my engine bay to install it...lol.
 
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