Four More Inches (Leg Room that is)
- Thread starter WildYoats
- Start date
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Cool but what about the poor guy behind you... Nice job.
yellowchaosfj80 said:
You care about the guy behind you?
Landtank does a nice variation of this available in the vendor section that is also very functional and has come highly recommended by several forum members.
WildYoats said:Some quick and easy seat brackets for us over 6'05"
Good job! This is exactly what I was thinking about for my 100...although I just need an inch or so to make it perfect. I like your mod as it looks like it moves the seat rearward instead of angling the front of the seat upward to increase the seat to pedal distance.
What about moving the back seats back too, of course raisning the seats over the hump would be an issue.
I've considered taking the second row out all together and using the jump seats in the back. However, my daughter is 2.5 and I always have to hand her stuff while I'm driving.
I've considered taking the second row out all together and using the jump seats in the back. However, my daughter is 2.5 and I always have to hand her stuff while I'm driving.
Something that you all should think about before doing this mod, particularly in regards to that back bracket condition: For every pound of vertical force applied to the rear seat bolt, it puts about 5 pounds of force on the bolt that holds it to the floor board. In the world of bolted connections it is referred to as "prying action". Now in normal everyday use, it doesn't matter, but in a severe head-on collision like scottm had, your momentum could very well snap that bolt and send you through the steering wheel. This condition is buy no means the same as the factory condition in regards to the load transfer. Just something to think about.
Rookie2
Rookie2
Something that you all should think about before doing this mod, particularly in regards to that back bracket condition: For every pound of vertical force applied to the rear seat bolt, it puts about 5 pounds of force on the bolt that holds it to the floor board. In the world of bolted connections it is referred to as "prying action". Now in normal everyday use, it doesn't matter, but in a severe head-on collision like scottm had, your momentum could very well snap that bolt and send you through the steering wheel. This condition is buy no means the same as the factory condition in regards to the load transfer. Just something to think about.
Rookie2
perhaps a stronger bolt would prevent this?
alia176
SILVER Star
Please update after a head on collision....LOL!
You could actually make this stronger than stock by drilling the rear hole through the floor and using a larger than stock grade 8 bolt with a large washer on the other side.
This is a much easier solution than LT's because you don't have to modify the seat itself - I'm not saying it is better, just easier to install.
- Thread starter
- #12
Trent, is is 1.5" x 1.5"
Something that you all should think about before doing this mod, particularly in regards to that back bracket condition: For every pound of vertical force applied to the rear seat bolt, it puts about 5 pounds of force on the bolt that holds it to the floor board. In the world of bolted connections it is referred to as "prying action". Now in normal everyday use, it doesn't matter, but in a severe head-on collision like scottm had, your momentum could very well snap that bolt and send you through the steering wheel. This condition is buy no means the same as the factory condition in regards to the load transfer. Just something to think about.
Rookie2
Sheesh, thanks kill joy.
(only joking man, I appreciate your input). I tend to wear my seatbelt regularly and try not to exceed speed limit capabilties with my 80 series. That's what the M5 is for. 
Nice job!
I thought about that and ended up going with LT's brackets.
Please update after a few months use.
Polak
Thank you. It's been a year and a half since this thread was posted. Still strong and Moab tested numerous times.
I wear my helmet everywhere.
Good idea.
That's the biggest part of the problem. That bolt would work fine if you weren't buckled in.
FWIW, I really like the different things you've come up with on your rig, and you've got the best looking 80 out there IMO. Keep up the good work.
Rookie2
I first thought about doing my seat this way but decided against it. I just don't know enough about the applied forces to be sure it would still save my life or someone else's if they were driving.
A couple of other points on this,
Because the front foot has been lifted to be on top of the floor, it will produce a permanent reclined position as the seat back can only go so far forward. I had to do this as well but limited it as much as possible.
The other thing is that at 4" some of the shorter members of the family might not be able to drive the truck any more. I've gotten this question a lot and what I have people do is to more the seat all the way forward and then back it up the amount the seat is moved to test fit for the shorter people before modifying the chair.
And doesn't the seat belt clip into the chair on the inside. I know it's on the floor and pillar on the outside.
A couple of other points on this,
Because the front foot has been lifted to be on top of the floor, it will produce a permanent reclined position as the seat back can only go so far forward. I had to do this as well but limited it as much as possible.
The other thing is that at 4" some of the shorter members of the family might not be able to drive the truck any more. I've gotten this question a lot and what I have people do is to more the seat all the way forward and then back it up the amount the seat is moved to test fit for the shorter people before modifying the chair.
And doesn't the seat belt clip into the chair on the inside. I know it's on the floor and pillar on the outside.
The seatlbelt latch is bolted into the seat, which is why the strength of the seat mount to the floor is essential - the seatbelt alone only holds you into the seat. If the seat itself breaks free you are launching forward on a floor mounted tether.
Exactly. The solution you proposed is simple and gets back to an essentially stock load path.
I just got done watching a video the other day of 6 antenna erectors falling over a 1000 feet to their death, because they modified a hoisting connection, fundamentally very similar to this connection.
Reviving a pretty old thread here, but this post gave me inspiration for my seat brackets. Same basic idea as @WildYoats but hopefully a bit stronger. The rear plate that the seat actually bolts to goes to the metal floor through the carpeting in order to take some load off the factory bolt location. Still transfers non-ideal loads to the stock bolts in the event of a front end collision, but at 6'4", mostly leg, and ridden with knee problems, this thing was borderline undriveable for more than an hour at a time in the stock location. It'll get painted and maybe have the corners smoothed out after I get back from King of the Hammers
Also, for those wondering, it only sits high enough to clear the motor assembly when moving back and forth. Easily accounted for with the adjuster in the seat. This makes the whole seat sit a bit higher, but I figured why not use that 3 story atrium of a roof. The seat also moves far enough forward that my 5'4" wife can still comfortably drive it
this reminds me... I want to move my gas peddle about 1-2inches to the left or cut the floor hump and make an indent
