RTH: Safe to drive without powersteering?

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Wiscolandcruiser

Wiscolandcruiser

10 Year
Joined
Jul 28, 2012
Threads
38
Messages
538
Location
Janesvegas
Before everyone grills me i searched through 8 pages and came back with nothing pertaining to my question. My power steering pump went out due to poor maintinence by the PO, and neglect on my behalf, i have to go to Chicago tomorrow and want to know if i will hurt anything. I obviously know its bad to run the pump dry but i was going to get a rebuilt one on monday, my main concern is will i kill my steering gearbox?

Sent from a shack in wisco
 
How far is chicago from you?

I blew a power steering return line on an offroad trip once, and drove back. That was with big tires, and I was pulling my military trailer. The steering pump only made noise (whining) when it was pumping the fluid out. After it was dry, it was silent the whole trip home (~100mi).

Replaced the line, filled it with fluid and it was good to go. I ended up re-doing my entire steering system a few months later and rebuilt the pump at that time. It looked fine inside, and the bearing was still in good shape.


Based on my experience, I'd say it's ok, BUT...... it sure does suck without power steering!
 
For sure man i have 33" toyo mt's and am feeling the pain no powersteering plus full time 4x4 sucks! And i live in southern wi. I have to go to south elgin which is closer than chicago looking at an 1:30 drive.

Sent from a shack in wisco
 
The 95 I just picked up tonight has a bad PS pump...or a leak somewhere, I get to tear into tomorrow but I drove it about 15 miles with no PS and no problem. The only thing that can happen I think is that you will build some big forearms and a death grip turning the wheel.
 
Thats what i though...... I would just hate to fxxxup my steering gearbox or something that depends on the power steering to work properly

Sent from my busted to s*** EVO4G
 
What are the chances of that happening? That sounds like a bad thing to happen while im on i90 doin about 65

Sent from my busted to s*** EVO4G
 
how about a rental car for that one-day trip ? :idea:

likely under $100 and peace of mind
 
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The pump new is about $250, rebuild kit $75 ish. Gear box new is about $1200 not sure about the rebuild kit, but you need to be very skilled to rebuild it

Might be a short term fix to find one off of a wreck and swap it in

I would be nervous about the damage to the gear box and making things worse, but thats me
 
Thanks for all the good advice guys looks like im stayin in janesville this weekend.....

Sent from my busted to s*** EVO4G
 
So i checked it out this morning and there was powersteering fluid all over my axle, swaybars, essentialy the whole front end was mucked in lucas ps fluid:/ I at first thought i blew the o ring that goes to the motor, but now it seems like it may be one of the 2 lines, or maybe rear seal? I just assumed that if it was the front o ring to the motor all that fluid would be in the crankcase, and not on the floor and the front end.

Sent from my busted to s*** EVO4G
 
In my experience, a huge leak is most often a return line. It is low pressure, 3/8", but needs to be oil hose, commonly available at parts stores as P/S return or auto trans hose. Water or fuel hose will not last very long. In rust bucket areas, the "paper clip" cooler can fail, not something that we see.

Find the leak and fix it. Hose access isn't the best, I remove the battery and box, makes it somewhat better. If it is a return hose, they are likely all hard, takes ~3' of 3/8" and ~1' of 5/8" hose to replace all of it.
 
while your in there, might6 as well replace the high pressure line. I think its $50 at NAPA. Helps to remove the skid plate as well to get at it from the bottom.
 
Is the high pressure hose what the fsm referrers to as the "pressure feed tube"

Sent from my busted to s*** EVO4G
 
Tools R Us said:
In my experience, a huge leak is most often a return line. It is low pressure, 3/8", but needs to be oil hose, commonly available at parts stores as P/S return or auto trans hose. Water or fuel hose will not last very long. In rust bucket areas, the "paper clip" cooler can fail, not something that we see.

Find the leak and fix it. Hose access isn't the best, I remove the battery and box, makes it somewhat better. If it is a return hose, they are likely all hard, takes ~3' of 3/8" and ~1' of 5/8" hose to replace all of it.
Click to expand...
Can I use oem clamps? Also will that replace the chunk of hose that goes from steer gear to cooler inlet, and from the cooler outlet to the resevoir correct? I was gonna get the previa hose but that bitch is 30 bucks! You used unmolded tranny line then, I don't have to mold it do i?

Sent from my busted to s*** EVO4G
 
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So I finally got around to replacing all the low pressure lines and the high pressure hose, along with new clamps in my ps system. Upon inspection of the pump I noticed the rear seal was toast. Fast forward 3 days I got a newish ps pump in damn good shape from josh at ajik, I got it all buttoned up and have been having a hell of a time trying to bleed the pump and get rid of the foam and bubbles. I have read all the one million threads on doing so, but have had no luck. All my lines are new including the high pressure line, and the oring that mates to the block. I added fluid to the resevoir until it came out of the high pressure port to prime the pump, then torqued the banjo bolt with the new style aluminum gasket. I have tried to add fluid while it off, while its running, and I have the same results it pukes foam at me out of the resevoir. I am turning the wheels from lock to lock and nothing seems to change what am I doing wrong?

Sent from my busted to s*** EVO4G
 
Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated were goin on a long trip this weekend so we need her!

Sent from my busted to s*** EVO4G
 
Gentle is key, if you try to force the air out, it will result in it becoming entrapped in the oil (foamed). If this happens, the best plan is time, let it set for a few hours/overnight and try again. Revving the motor, holding the steering against the stops, etc, will only make it worse.

How I do it, fill it and turn the steering several times lock to lock with the motor off, (easier with the wheels off of the ground) checking/maintaining fluid level. When the level stabilizes, start the motor, at idle, don't rev it, gently turn the steering lock it lock, check level, repeat.

The truth is: It likely doesn't "need" to be bled. Easy, short term, driving with it groaning is going to damage it, in a couple of drive cycles it should bleed out.
 
Tools R Us said:
The truth is: It likely doesn't "need" to be bled. Easy, short term, driving with it groaning is going to damage it, in a couple of drive cycles it should bleed out.
Click to expand...

I think you meant to say

"Easy, short term, driving with it groaning is NOT going to damage it..."
 
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