WTF?? Smoke from under the hood, cut off in traffic

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Joined
Oct 17, 2006
Threads
22
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76
Location
Detroit
Didn't make it to work this morning.

I had just left the gas station and noticed a funny burning smell. couldn't figure it out so i kept going. less than 200 feet later, engine cuts off. Lot of smoke from under the hood. It was not steam, it was a bit darker and the smell was more like plastic...

quick inspection of the oil cap and a sniff test don't indicate a mechanical issue (burnt piston rings, for instance). Can't see anything to pinpoint the source of the smoke.

Engine turns over during cranking, but no start.

This is a 96 LC, 198K miles.

Any ideas/suggestions? check engine lamp :flipoff2: has been on for 2+ years, I have ignored it all this while.
 
Sounds like wiring. Can the fuseable links up by the battery create that much smoke or smell when they go? Can they burn something next to them when they give out?
 
Just went outside in the cold and looked around. There is a short circuit on the ground battery terminal cable. there is a small pod marked "AM1 main" connected to the -ve terminal, has 2 wires coming out. One of those 2 wires (looks like size 14 AWG) was fused to the negative.

I wonder what connects to that...
 
pics

from the cell phone camera
P12-16-11_10-45.webp
P12-16-11_10-44.webp
 
That would be the main fuse I believe, and it connects to + side though.
 
That would be the main fuse I believe, and it connects to + side though.

x2... and that is a where the fusible links are going to the Positive side of battery..
 
Sorry, I meant +ve side of battery. One of the symptoms when this happened is that the power to the shift lock ECU was gone with the wire shorted. I had put the car in P. Had to get creative when the tow truck arrived. Luckily I had a screw driver and Toyota has a manual override mechanism near the shifter.
 
Has anyone ever had to replace the wires from the fusible link to the battery terminal? I would think the link can be opened to be able to disconnect the wire from either end...
 
Cheap fix. I carry a spare, and prior to that just jumpered it to get me home.
 
Just replace the fussible link (the whole thing)... I jsut repalced mine and I think it was around 20 bucks... Many here suggest carrying a spare nd that is good advice...
 
I finally received the 2 parts I ordered. Went ahead and installed one of them, and it promptly started smoking again within a few seconds after I had hooked up everything again.

This can only mean one thing: the short to ground which caused the over-current condition is still somewhere downstream. But where?

If anyone has a wiring diagram of the 2-wire fusible link, AM1 and Main, it will help make a cold day a bit more bearable and limit my exposure to the elements.
 
I finally received the 2 parts I ordered. Went ahead and installed one of them, and it promptly started smoking again within a few seconds after I had hooked up everything again.

This can only mean one thing: the short to ground which caused the over-current condition is still somewhere downstream. But where?

If anyone has a wiring diagram of the 2-wire fusible link, AM1 and Main, it will help make a cold day a bit more bearable and limit my exposure to the elements.


https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...a-land-cruiser-electrical-wiring-diagram.html


Searchable PDF, very helpful. For your 96.

Good luck man, I hate wiring issues...
 
When your fusible links burn, there is usually a reason. Find the cause first before you add the new fusible link or you will be replacing them... again.
 
How hard would it be to replace the fusible links with a circuit breaker?
 
I finally received the 2 parts I ordered. Went ahead and installed one of them, and it promptly started smoking again within a few seconds after I had hooked up everything again.

This can only mean one thing: the short to ground which caused the over-current condition is still somewhere downstream. But where?

If anyone has a wiring diagram of the 2-wire fusible link, AM1 and Main, it will help make a cold day a bit more bearable and limit my exposure to the elements.

Since a minor fuse isn't blowing first (unless it was bypassed sometime in the past), I would guess the problem is going to lie in the engine compartment near the battery. Visually check all wires going to the battery, starter and main fuse panel.
 
root cause identified

further investigation with a multimeter as follows:

1) check continuity from battery + terminal to alternator B+ stud. should be continuous. checked out OK
2) check continuity between alternator B+ stud and alternator case (GND). should not be continuous. failed.
3) removed all the alternator belt, belt tensioner and pivot bolts, flipped the alternator around and saw the back of the rear casing bashed inwards into the voltage regulator circuitry. Didn't think that was possible unless the alternator was in a rear-end accident on I-94.


Pictures later once I get the 3-wire plug off. Looks like it has melted and fused itself tight. :censor:
 

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