Today I changed the oil in my 96 for the first time. I had quite a bit of trouble getting the oil filter off because some idiot at the last place where the oil was changed (previous owner, filter was "firestone" brand) decided it would be a good idea to put it on with about 1000 ft-lb of torque. So I was left with the task of figuring out a way to get it off. I tried all the usual tactics; rubber band wrench, poke a screw driver through, twist by hand. All failed mainly because I did not have enough access to get them to work properly except my hands which apparently weren't strong enough. In the end I used part of a ratchet strap with a metal hook on the end. I inserted the hook into one of the holes I'd made in the side of the filter and then wrapped the strap around a couple of times. Then I stood on the bumper and pulled on the strap until the filter started turning. The main reason this is a good method is you get to apply the force to the strap from outside the engine compartment leaving you plenty of room to really get your weight into it. By the time I thought of this idea I had almost completely destroyed the filter from my other methods. Be careful not to get debris into the engine if you are destroying the filter as you try to take it off. I saw no evidence of debris in the inlet or outlet ports so I think I'm good. Hope this helps somebody sometime in the future.
Trick for removing stubborn oil filter (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter mathamattox
- Start date
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wow dude.... thats actually genius... lol
i like it
i like it
If you have a welder, you can tach a nut on the filter. Then you can use a socket. If you don't have a welder,you can try this. Sand the end of the filter to end the paint off , and use jb weld for the nut. You could probably use a two part epoxy but i use jb weld personally. Just make sure there is no oil where you put jb weld or epoxy. The welded nut would be my first method.
mathamattox: That was a good idea 
. I had a similar situation yesterday; I could not get the oil filter off from above no matter what I tried, so I put the rig high up on a lift and while standing underneath reached up with the metal band type filter wrench got it on the filter and with my body weight hanging on the wrench was able to get it to break loose. Then I lowered the rig and removed the filter from up top. Probably not a new idea, just I had never thought of it before. If working in the driveway without a lift this could still work, just haven't tried it yet. It would really be nice if every manufacturer put a nut on top (like bignasty suggested) or maybe even a square slot on the top of every filter that something like a 1/2inch ratchet extension would fit into
??
. I had a similar situation yesterday; I could not get the oil filter off from above no matter what I tried, so I put the rig high up on a lift and while standing underneath reached up with the metal band type filter wrench got it on the filter and with my body weight hanging on the wrench was able to get it to break loose. Then I lowered the rig and removed the filter from up top. Probably not a new idea, just I had never thought of it before. If working in the driveway without a lift this could still work, just haven't tried it yet. It would really be nice if every manufacturer put a nut on top (like bignasty suggested) or maybe even a square slot on the top of every filter that something like a 1/2inch ratchet extension would fit into ??
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That's the main reason I buy K&N oil filters, they come with a nut welded on. An oil filter wrench that fits on the end of the filter works well on other filters. Don't even bother with the plastic ones though.
My metal socket style filter wrench works well on the hex end of my toyota filter.
There was a similar thread on here a while back...one of the members had a similar idea to yours, Mathamattox but avoided destroying the filter first. Take a sturdy rope, and wind it three or four or five times around the filter. Leave enough on the slack end to keep a little tension on to keep the rope from slipping, and then haul like made on the long end. It works like a windlass on a boat, and you can get some huge gripping force on it. It helps, too, to make sure the filter is really clean before you start, and dry, so the rope grips better.
460 Channellocks
I've had these pliers forever, and when nothin' else works, these sure come in handy for a variety of uses, like torqueing head bolts...
Nothing beats a good filter wrench, and I've always been able to get my FZJ filters off with one, but plenty of other rigs have needed my channellocks to remove their filters. Best $15 I ever spent. Your method was clever. Just adding my method to this "stubborn filter removal" thread.
I've had these pliers forever, and when nothin' else works, these sure come in handy for a variety of uses, like torqueing head bolts...
Nothing beats a good filter wrench, and I've always been able to get my FZJ filters off with one, but plenty of other rigs have needed my channellocks to remove their filters. Best $15 I ever spent. Your method was clever. Just adding my method to this "stubborn filter removal" thread.
Remote mount filter assy
Good solution, mathamattox. Lest we forget, most of us install our oil filters by hand and tighten them - by hand. Why then, do we need a filter wrench or other assistance to remove it? 'Cause the rubber gasket swells from heat and exposure to the oil? Prolly - but the point is - it usually ends up tighter than it was when we put it on - or at least it seems that way!
No matter how tight that filter is, the next challenge is getting to the damn thing and having the clearance for a tool with some leverage, right? Well, I've had similar problems on other rigs, especially Ford vans. My solution on my '94 is a (dual)remote filter casting, that is connected to the engine with hoses and an adapter.
Some pics follow, but let me briefly describe it. First is the adapter that screws on the engine in place of the original oil filter. Then you find a protected place to mount the casting and connect the two together with hoses. There's quite a bit of detail that I'm omitting so as not to steal the thread. Anyway, the filters are quite accessible as you can see. The reason there are two filters is that one is a bypass, in addition to the full flow that is normally used. The neat thing is that the filters are really easy to change - almost as easy as the oil pan drain plug. I might have to slightly relocate the filter casting for the slider installation that I'm anticipating, but I welcome the challenge.
The first pic shows the adapter on the stock filter mount on side of engine. No more trying to reach that nightmare!
The second pic shows the remote casting and filters with the shielding I made from old mud flaps. The bottom piece to the shield is held on with tie wraps and is only intended to protect from flying debris, it's not a skid plate.
The third pic shows the shield swung out of the way like I do for changing the filters.
Good solution, mathamattox. Lest we forget, most of us install our oil filters by hand and tighten them - by hand. Why then, do we need a filter wrench or other assistance to remove it? 'Cause the rubber gasket swells from heat and exposure to the oil? Prolly - but the point is - it usually ends up tighter than it was when we put it on - or at least it seems that way!
No matter how tight that filter is, the next challenge is getting to the damn thing and having the clearance for a tool with some leverage, right? Well, I've had similar problems on other rigs, especially Ford vans. My solution on my '94 is a (dual)remote filter casting, that is connected to the engine with hoses and an adapter.
Some pics follow, but let me briefly describe it. First is the adapter that screws on the engine in place of the original oil filter. Then you find a protected place to mount the casting and connect the two together with hoses. There's quite a bit of detail that I'm omitting so as not to steal the thread. Anyway, the filters are quite accessible as you can see. The reason there are two filters is that one is a bypass, in addition to the full flow that is normally used. The neat thing is that the filters are really easy to change - almost as easy as the oil pan drain plug. I might have to slightly relocate the filter casting for the slider installation that I'm anticipating, but I welcome the challenge.
The first pic shows the adapter on the stock filter mount on side of engine. No more trying to reach that nightmare!
The second pic shows the remote casting and filters with the shielding I made from old mud flaps. The bottom piece to the shield is held on with tie wraps and is only intended to protect from flying debris, it's not a skid plate.
The third pic shows the shield swung out of the way like I do for changing the filters.
Try this website:
https://www.amsoil.com/a/By-Pass-Filters-Mounts
If you have any problems or questions while on this site contact an Amsoil dealer closest to you. Clicking on the yellow hyperlink at the upper right will prompt you for your zip code (Canadian Zip Codes work, too), plug it in and it will usually give you several choices.
This works wonders on those freakin' 1000 ft/lb filters...
Old thread, but yeah, this tool was the only thing that got the oil filter off of my 40 series this past weekend. Local shop installed it, apparently with Loc-tite!
inkpot
SILVER Star
This is one of the reasons that I prefer the smaller later year filter. It does leave a little more room for working on a stuck filter. Sucks any way you look at it.
I do mine by hand and they're always stuck for some damn reason.
^^^^ what he said...after many attempts failed on removing I grabbed a long screwdriver got underneath the rig on my back aimed for the lip of the oil filter @ 3 o"clock position and gave it a slight blow with a hammer and success.
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On the first oil change on my '97, I had to loosen the power steering fluid reservoir and move it out of the way to get better access to the filter. That helped a lot.
I have used an old inner tube from a mountain bike. I cut the tube length to place around the filter and use a slip over oil filter wrench. Gives me just enough grip to get it going...
