Tech: Replacing 22RE PS Idler Pulley Bearing (1 Viewer)

[pappy]

This will only work on the older pulleys with a replaceable bearing (see next post). The early idler pulleys had a replaceable bearing, part number 6204 with double seals. This includes KOYO 6204-2RS, NSK 6204VV,and NTN (Natchi) 6204-LLU. The NTN is the bearing you will probably find when you remove the bearing. Just about any 6204 with double seals will work, as long as the center is 20mm. I've seen a bearing out of China that was smaller and didn't work.

OK, what needs to happen. This is extremely easy boys.

First remove the pulley from the engine. Note the bits and what order they come off and in what direction. The pulley should look like this when you have it on the bench:

Next remove the spring clip. BE CAREFUL. It will launch across the garage and you will never find it. This spring is NOT available from Toyota as a separate item.

Now, time to press out the bearing. You have several choices here. It can be pounded out with a socket and BFH:

Or, it can be pressed out using what ever method you wish. Here I'm using a socket to push the bearing out, and backing the bearing up in the vice with a large pitman arm puller.

Use what ever method you wish.

Time to reinstall the new bearing. I use a seal driver and a vice to press the bearing in. I coat the inside of the pulley with a light coat of grease to help the bearing slip in smooth.

Install the clip and you are finished.

 

[pappy]

As I said in the first post there were two styles of pulley used. The early pulley was cast steel and allowed for the bearing to be replaced. The newer flavor is a stamped steel pulley and there is a welded ring retaining the bearing. Here are pics of the differences. If today you went to Toyota to order a replacement pulley, Toyota would send you the newer stamped pulley. It's best to just replace the bearing and call it a day.

This picture shows the front side of each pulley. The lower pulley shows the bearing with the spring clip. The top pulley is the newer pulley with the welded ring removed.

Here is a picture of the back side of both pulleys. Again, new pulley on top, and older cast pulley on bottom.

This picture shows the difference in the various bits used to attach the pulley. Top pic is the old style, bottom pic is the newer style.

OK, last pic shows the difference between the two bearings used. Sorry, I don't remember what the part number is for the newer bearing.

 

[Devilmans Hand]

Be careful with the hammer and socket method. I cracked mine trying that.

 

[pappy]

Be careful with the hammer and socket method. I cracked mine trying that.

Which is why I showed the other way. I've never had a problem, but then I try to keep the vice just wide enough to push the bearing out. As I said, the pulley is cast so it can be easy to crack or chip.

 

[KLF]

Are you sure that "ring" on the newer pulley is welded in? I thought it was staked in. I seem to remember having to unstake one at some time. Maybe it was the AC idler.

 

[pappy]

Actually, no. It could just be staked. Either way, that ring does come off easy. I seem to recall pushing it off with the bearing from the other side. Regardless, there is no way to retain the bearing on those pulleys. I'm not sure if the bearing would walk out or not.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Also, it's better to press that bearing out before it grenades and you only have the outer bearing ring stuck in your pulley... Speaking from experience....

Nice thread Pappy! I'll FAQ it.