advice needed on how to remove a screw on the carb.

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NLXTACY

Wits' End
Joined
Dec 7, 2007
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Location
Medford, OR
I just had my carb re-built but instead of using mine to rebuild, I used a core I had. Problem is I am missing this brass screw. I "think" its to regulate vacuum but not sure.

Now I've tried using a flat screw driver that is small enough to get in but it seems to be too narrow because it seems to be messing up the screw.

Here are the pics of what I need and where it's going. Any ideas on how I should remove it AND what about that aluminum piece thats around it?

Did I mention this is all I need to get the truck working so I can pick up my son from school? :P
carb-old.webp
carb-new.webp
 
I am 99% sure that that screw is the idle mixture screw. From the factory, it has a plug over it which needed to be drilled out and removed to access the screw. Is there part of the plug still in the hole preventing you from threading it out?
 
Idle adj screw. Thought there was an SST to remove it ? I think I've read where people have ground down a slotted screwdriver ... ?? Lemme look in the FSM
adjscrew0001.webp
 
No, sorry, FSM says SST or screwdriver... Looks like it should just unscrew... May be corroded in there or some of the plug may be remaining... Can't quite tell from your pic.
 
I solved it. I am taking pictures and will do an FAQ on this repair AND the carb R&R in just a bit!

BTW, both of you are correct
 
No, sorry, FSM says SST or screwdriver... Looks like it should just unscrew... May be corroded in there or some of the plug may be remaining... Can't quite tell from your pic.

there are two possible OEM screws in there, just depends on which one you have. one is sst and one is flathead screwdriver
 
That is actually the idle mixture screw. You drill out the aluminum cap when you are rebuilding the carb so you can adjust the mixture once you put it back on the truck. It comes sealed from the factory.
 
That is actually the idle mixture screw. You drill out the aluminum cap when you are rebuilding the carb so you can adjust the mixture once you put it back on the truck. It comes sealed from the factory.

ding ding ding, we have a winner!
 
So here is the deal for those that don't know.

Of course this really only matters if you are rebuilding your carb but just in case.

Yes you need to drill out the plug that is there. Most already are for one reason or another. Mine was drilled so it was easy. I tried backing down the screw but it wouldn't budge. So I figured it was time to remove it. Besides, I needed it for the rebuilt carb. I just stuck in a screw driver and......


Broke the tip. Next screwdriver did the trick and it popped right out. Once gone I could see why the screw wouldn't budge. The head of the set screw was broken off on one side. Ugh. Took a little bit of effort but I got it out.

Now I dont have a spare so, I talked to Mark of Mark's Off Road and he has the suggestion to fix the problem.

All I had to do was take a hacksaw and carefully cut in a new slot for the screwdriver. Bam, it was done. easy peasy. Its not a permanent solution I think but it works.
carb13.webp
carb14.webp
carb15.webp
 
Nice fix --

Did Mark to the rebuild ? I've gotta take mine over there.
 
Can you identify where the idle speed screw is? I have a pdf from another posting on this forum that depicts it to the left
of the idle mixture screw, but shows it on the same side (valve cover) of the carb. The only possible one I can find on mine
(1984 fj60) is reachable from the driver's fender side, and even that one doesn't seem to affect idle speed.

I have high HC's on idle, and would like to run it lean at least until it passes smog.
S
 
The Idle Mixture Screw is on the side that is against the valve cover and is under the air cleaner. Pretty much impossible to reach. There is an adjuster screw on the front of the carb facing the radiator. That is to adjust for the A/C kick on. The other two adjusters are on the back side of the carb facing the firewall. The one that is easily seen is the choke adjustment. The one that is tucked back next to the body of the carb is the idle set screw.

Sounds like what you need is the screw that is next to the valve cover, the Idle Mixture Screw.
 
Just wanted to post another great Mark A. rebuild! :)
carb0001.webp
 
Yeah, well, I'd rather have your two-car garage to store the whole-bloody thing in... ;)


Actually, it was supposed to be a NEW carb, purchased from Toyota a couple of years ago, that the mechanic couldn't get to run right (I got it as a core) ... Mark took it apart and found out monkeys had been let loose on the inside.

Can't wait to fire the beast up. :D
 
hahahah, well a few days after installing the carb my smog pump went out. When I finally got it running the carb was sucking ass and spewing black smoke everywhere. Took it off after a conversation with Mark and after he spent 30 minutes taking it apart and putting it back together he found that the flow valve was completely blocked by what looked like slimy rubber. It turned out I had a bad fuel line going from the filter to the fuel pump. The whole inside of it was slimy and peeling. So I replaced ALL the rubber fuel lines and blew out all the hard lines with CO2.

Now my garage smells like a freaking gas station. Pretty bad.
 
Can you identify where the idle speed screw is? I have a pdf from another posting on this forum that depicts it to the left
of the idle mixture screw, but shows it on the same side (valve cover) of the carb. The only possible one I can find on mine
(1984 fj60) is reachable from the driver's fender side, and even that one doesn't seem to affect idle speed.

I have high HC's on idle, and would like to run it lean at least until it passes smog.
S
Hey STKreit this confused me as well when trying to pass smog.
I could not find the screw, like others have said mine was sealed with a brass plug from the factory that you will have to drill out before performing the "lean drop test". Search this term for good pics.
The factory emissions manual helped me alot on this procedure
Sorry for the hijack:beer:
 

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