IPOR FJ60 Power Steering Question

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oldmuddog

oldmuddog

10 Year
Joined
May 14, 2011
Threads
15
Messages
242
Location
coastal ct.
I removed my stock steering box today and am getting ready to template my FJ60 Power Steering Box to the frame . When I hold the P.S. Box tight to the frame there is a 3/16" gap on the top bolt holes that is caused by the side of the pump hitting the radiator support housing.So I unbolted the radiator support and reamed the holes toward the passenger side . I guess my question is has anyone encountered this ? Any problems with what I've done? Thanks in advance ,the Dog.
 
I did the same thing. No issues at all.
 
Stump,

I'll get some pics of mine tomorrow (IPOR did mine).
 
I was surprised to see this thread this morning. Took a couple pics when I got to the shop. I did ''oblong'' the holes in the cross member a little bit. Took the radiator support on and off till I thought I had the proper clearance. Then I took two large rubber grommets and inserted them into the holes to use as a cushion. After the radiator support was in place (pushed to the passenger side), I took some 3/16'' flat stock and made ''washers out of them to keep the radiator from sliding back to the other side(even though the PS pump would stop it. Doesn't look like much room ,but it's about an eighth of an inch. Hope this helps.
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If you don't want to clearance your shock towers and the radiator support, you can always use the ford towers or add a piece of 3/4" flat stock on the outboard side with drilled/tapped holes. This pushes the box outboard. Mark W has a article in the 2003 TT on this.
 
These kinds of threads pop back up all the time. I have been pouring over every thread I can find for thae past few months and this was the first time this one popped up. Thanks for the great pictures! That helps a ton. The washer idea is super trick. I will probably use a combination of sliding the radiator to the passenger side and a 1/4" spacer plate. I have a bunch of 1/4" plate lying around and I have about 1/2" of clearance between the radiator fan and shroud to work with.
These two adjustments should allow me to maintain my original placement of the Ford shock towers, or at least only have to mod them slightly.

I thought of the 3/4" plate idea, but I am limited with my welder power. I may stack two 1/4" plates if I still have a clearance issue, that way I can make one slightly smaller than the other (stepped on the vertical), weld them together then still have a 1/4" plate to weld to the frame.

If I am seeing this right and since I am using the IPOR sleeved plate, it seems that welding the plate to the frame is for some strengthening but it doesn't seem like it requires a continuous weld around the entire plate. Am I wrong in thinking this?
 
We grind the bolts off of the radiator mount frame, drill/move them and use washers/plates, then tack it all in place. This is an '80 box, but same concept. Also, have to take a little nip off of the corner of the radiator and shroud (this one took a bit more than a "nip").:hillbilly:
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Stumpalama, that plate can be welded pretty much on three full sides. I drilled the holes for my sleeves through the plate from the outside of the frame. The holes on the outside of the frame were drilled with the steering box in place after I had it aligned the way I wanted it with a bit that was the same diameter as the holes in the PS box. I then took the box off , welded the plate and then drilled through the outside holes (making them the size for the sleeve) and on through the plate on the backside. BTW , I didn't have to trim the radiator support, but I did trim the stock shock tower.
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oldmuddog, is that shock tower cracked above the cutout, or is it just an optical illusion?

I had a good bit of the bottom corner of the radiator frame cut out and rewelded kinda like:

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Where the 'bite' is the ds.
 
All great inputs. I am a visual learner and these pics are exactly what I need. I like the idea of drilling and bolting the radiator support as well since it provides positive placement in the original holes vice elongating the holes

Tools: Do you plate the outside of the frame as well? I'm trying to confirm or deny that plating the outside is recommended to prevent frame fatigue? I am using an inner plate and sleeves. Any tire rubbing issues when truning to passenger and flexing the suspension?
 
Blue77FJ40, That's just a shadow from the camera flash. Stumpalama, I didn't plate the outside, figured the frame on the outside was solid (no factory holes like the inside of the frame) that and the plate along with the sleeves there should be no issues. I am also a visual learner. I tried to match what I saw in the FAQS .IPOR has some pretty good pics in there as well. Tools R Us also has a great idea about moving the bolts on the radiator frame (why didn't I think of that:doh:). But I think my setup will work just fine. As far as tire rub, don't really know yet because I'm still in the ever so slow build phase. My tires are SS pizza cutters (34x9.5) so I don't foresee issues there either.
 
Stumpalama said:
Tools: Do you plate the outside of the frame as well?
Click to expand...

Nope.

Stumpalama said:
I'm trying to confirm or deny that plating the outside is recommended to prevent frame fatigue? I am using an inner plate and sleeves.
Click to expand...

IMHO, the '40 frame flexes, so if one area is made too solid, it would tend to crack at the ends of the plating? The metal we use is the about the same thickness as the frame and not fully welded.

Stumpalama said:
Any tire rubbing issues when truning to passenger and flexing the suspension?
Click to expand...

Nope.

Pix of the plate. We have done several, on this one we used stock '60 bolts, so the tubes were short, even with the plate. Now we use new/longer bolts, making the tubes longer, this makes the welding/cleanup easier.

 
Blue77FJ40 said:
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I had a good bit of the bottom corner of the radiator frame cut out and rewelded kinda like:

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Where the 'bite' is the ds.
Click to expand...

Have done the same, more work, but it really depends on what is needed? In this case, it was getting a 2FE, didn't have the latitude to move it, had plans for that space, so chomp!:hillbilly:

 
Tools, that's exactly what I had done, but without the side plating. Just a square cut out, then thin plate reverse curved. Suggest you remove the positive battery lead prior to weldidng. I didn't and a great length of ground wire going from radiator to almost the alternator was burned up. Rewiring was in order.
 
Tools: Great pics, again. This totally frames what work is required for me over the next week or so. I've followed alot of your builds and work here on mud and love the work you guys do. I especially liked your electrical connection insulation "how to"; it was clever and very clean.

I have some 1/8" flat stock I can use to beef up the side supports of the rad support.

You mentioned 2FE... I am also planning that as well (still pulling the parts of the donor) so what was the space issue you were allowing for? I still have my smog pump on my 81 FJ40 and will keep that for the 2FE build. Is there something else I should be considering?
 
So, with the 80 series box, I also have the 80 series pitman arm which looks like it will work well with my SOA on 60 front springs since the drop it is pretty low; about 1" less than the 60 series pitman arm.

I'll get some pics to post my progress for future searchers. So far, this is the best thread I've found on steering box placement and fitment issues.
 
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