IPOR FJ60 Power Steering Question

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I got the rad and support out tonight. It looks as if I can cut the studs off the rad support and drill locating holes almost right next to the originals and maintain safe spacing between the fan and shroud. Took some pictures...

Looks a bit tight near the air pump, but not too bad. I have to secure the fan shroud to the support and double check the fit.
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You mentioned 2FE... I am also planning that as well (still pulling the parts of the donor) so what was the space issue you were allowing for? I still have my smog pump on my 81 FJ40 and will keep that for the 2FE build. Is there something else I should be considering?

Don't remember exactly what we were concerned about, but it's kinda busy under there.:hillbilly: This isn't done, there are now a pair of horns, the air intake piece that was on the driver side, etc, mounted between the rad support and the tanks. Space is a premium on that one.

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So, with the 80 series box, I also have the 80 series pitman arm which looks like it will work well with my SOA on 60 front springs since the drop it is pretty low; about 1" less than the 60 series pitman arm.

I'll get some pics to post my progress for future searchers. So far, this is the best thread I've found on steering box placement and fitment issues.

Humm, '80 series box makes it even tighter.

Yep the pitman arm is flatter, but is it flat enough for SOA? Would depend on springs and how they are mounted? We used a flat arm from Trail Gear, put the box where the nut end of the drag end is very close to the frame. It doesn't rub paint off of the frame, but does scare it pretty good.:hillbilly: Still had to add some bump stop to keep the spring off of the drag link.

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I don't think the 80 pitman is going to work. It measures about 3" from spring to bottom of the tre and I have about 4.25" of up travel that I want to keep.

Flat pitman arm it is.
 
I don't think the 80 pitman is going to work. It measures about 3" from spring to bottom of the tre and I have about 4.25" of up travel that I want to keep.

Flat pitman arm it is.

That was also our conclusion for SOA setups. Talked about making a notch in the frame for more clearance, but the cross member,,, was deemed to be more work than we wanted.:hillbilly: We did cut/grind the the excess off of the drag link end, made it even with the nut.

I would concentrate on getting the box in the best place possible, then worry about fitting the rad.

This pic shows why we started moving the stud in the rad mount. If the frame mount were drilled where it needs to be, couldn't get a nut on it.

 
Got the box located and the holes drilled.

There isn't a lot of inner frame Steel up front, which seems good and bad. Good because I only need a die grinder and a carbide bit to clear the IPOR sleeved plate and bad because there isn't alot of metal to weld the plate on.

I have just enough room between the front of the steering box and the smog pump to get a fan belt through and didn't have to relocate the shock tower. Win!
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Got it done. Thanks for the tips and pictures, they helped immeasurably.

I think it came out clean and straightforward. I plan to do a write up for the FJ40FAQ section in hopes it can be a definitive guide (read all step by step and in one place) on how to accomplish an FJ60 PS install. I read through a lot of threads while trying to answer some of my more basic questions. It was frustrating and confusing.

Anyway, some pics:
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I think it came out clean and straightforward. I plan to do a write up for the FJ40FAQ section in hopes it can be a definitive guide (read all step by step and in one place) on how to accomplish an FJ60 PS install. I read through a lot of threads while trying to answer some of my more basic questions. It was frustrating and confusing.

This would be great if you ever get around to it.
 
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