Ignitor Schematic

[gibgoaz8]

Does anyone out there in Cruiserland have a schematic of an ignitor for a 78 FJ40. Mine is bad and I have a multimeter and am pretty good at electronics and would like to repair it for a few pennies rather than buy a new one for a couple of hundred or so.
An electronic schematic of the ignitor would help me to be able to do this. Thanks much from a rookie

 

[Pin_Head]

AFAIK, niether Toyota or anyone else has ever published the detailed schematics. They only show them as a box. They aren't that complicated, so you could readily discern the schematic from reading the PC board. There will be a power transistor or SCR that switches the current and must also be capable of withstanding high voltage and a driver section that will amplify the signals from the pickup to levels needed to drive the ouput switch section. I have never opened one up, but one of the most common problems is discerning the types of transistors or ICs used. They often don't have any label and if they do, it is a OEM proprietary number that does not interchange to something standard. You have to end up guessing about which components might interchange based on the power and speed requirements.

They go to some lenght to make it difficult to make board level repairs.

 

[grant5127]

Ignitor eliminator

I've installed several GM modules ('76~'82) to elimate that "punk-ass" ignitor....

Very easy really......the module teminals are labeled, just follow the diagram below.......



W = positive lead (+) from the pickup
G = negative lead (-) from the pickup
C = negative side (-) of the coil
B = positive side (+) of the coil
Grd = Dizzy ground terminal, and it is one of the holes that the screw runs through to attach the module.

 

[Poser]

Very helpful Grant man!

Great tip!

 

[FJ40Jim]

Do any streetrod/race catalogs sell a mount of some sort, maybe a finned aluminum block, for mounting the GM module? It's been used as a replacement for expensive 'furrin car' modules, but I've always seen it just screwed to a fender or firewall. It would be nice to have a heat sink and something to get it off the rusty fender.

 

[gibgoaz8]

Grant: Hey, man, thanks, but I am new to this thread and need a little more advice. When you say module, what are you referring to. If I go to NAPA store, exactly what do I ask for? Also, you mention two leads come from the "pick up". Exactly what do you mean by "pick up". What is it? Sorry to be so dumb, but like I say, I am new, but I really do love this thread. Thanks a lot from a new rookie...

 

[grant5127]

"MODULE" GM/Chevy style, inside the HEI distributor......

Here are a few part #s and ask for a HEI module for '80 Camaro 3.8L...........
Advance Auto Parts GP Sorensen #EL102
AC Delco #D1906
Autozone Wells #DR100
Accel #35361
Napa Milage Plus #MPETP45SB
PepBoys Accel #35367

"pick up" is the signal coil inside the distributor.........

IIRC the '78 only has 2 wires leading up to the ignitor so you will need to add a 3rd for a direct ground to the module........

The module gets really hot so it needs to be mounted on some sort of insulated block (heat sink) otherwise it will be short lived.........

No matter what coil you use you will not need a ballast resistor. The purpose of a ballast resistor is to add series resistance to limit current through the coil. The HEI actually measure the current and when it reaches a certain point resistance is added using the switching transistor to prevent excessive current draw. So basically it has a built-in self adjusting ballast resistor.

I must stress the point of a good solid ground between the module and distributor.......

Hope this helps......












Man, I gotta stop doing this .............. my Grandfather told me long ago "Son don't tell everyone what you know, because they will know what you know and then you will know nothing".....................

 

[gibgoaz8]

Wow, Grant: Great information and a life saver. Thank you so much. Since the distributor has only two wires, and no ground wire, does the ground to the module have to come from the distributor body, or where do I hook it. Can I run a wire from the - battery terminal or from a good frame ground to the module or does is have to come from distributor body? I know I am asking a lot, but I am learning a lot also. Thanks so much.

 

[Fuzzy Logic]

Man, I gotta stop doing this .............. my Grandfather told me long ago "Son don't tell everyone what you know, because they will know what you know and then you will know nothing".....................

Theres still a great number of people that don't use the Internet or read this forum.

 

[CruisinGA]

This is the kind of info that really makes this forum worth what it is!

The ignitor does seem to be the weak leak in the fully electronic ignition. I already carry a spare, but if it dies I'm buying one of these!

 

[Coolerman]

This is the only one I have ever seen. If you can get a 1975 schematic it has the igniter internals. This is a low res scan that was sent to me. It does not appear to have the values of the components but if you open the case you can fill those in...

 

[FJ40Jim]

This is the only one I have ever seen. If you can get a 1975 schematic it has the igniter internals. This is a low res scan that was sent to me. It does not appear to have the values of the components but if you open the case you can fill those in...

That is the 1975-77 points triggered ignitor. Though similar in theory, it is very different from the 81-newer ignitor, at the actual component level.

 

[John Smith]

This has been a very popular swap for 22R powered trucks for years. This Pirate thread goes into great detail about this swap. complete bypass of toy ignitor and coil for 30$ - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board

 

[Coolerman]

That is the 1975-77 points triggered ignitor. Though similar in theory, it is very different from the 81-newer ignitor, at the actual component level.

Ooops! Missed the 78 part....

I have a 1978 Ignitor. I guess I need to take it apart and draw up a schematic some day. Maybe in the spring after I clean up the yard from the ice storm...

Edit: Here is a new thread I started with the 1978 Igniter schematic: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/267275-1978-igniter-exposed.html

 

[Vicm]

Ooops! Missed the 78 part....

I have a 1978 Ignitor. I guess I need to take it apart and draw up a schematic some day. Maybe in the spring after I clean up the yard from the ice storm...

You are tempting me to show some pics of my yard.
This winter, the 60 got stuck in my yard 3 times so far..


To keep this thread in focus,
I am thinking that a coil pack from some other Toyotas will work with the LC FE ignition distributor (2F). I want to try one from an 84 Toy truck that was hooked to the 22r distributor. Is there any reason not to do that. They show the same range for the pickup coil resistance. If that works , that would be a great replacement when my igniter dies. They are much easier to find for me.

 

[John Smith]

You are tempting me to show some pics of my yard.
This winter, the 60 got stuck in my yard 3 times so far..


To keep this thread in focus,
I am thinking that a coil pack from some other Toyotas will work with the LC FE ignition distributor (2F). I want to try one from an 84 Toy truck that was hooked to the 22r distributor. Is there any reason not to do that. They show the same range for the pickup coil resistance. If that works , that would be a great replacement when my igniter dies. They are much easier to find for me.

My guess is that the ignitor from any 22R truck would work. I sold my 87 22R truck or I would go out and pull the ignitor and hook it up to my 79 and see if it works for you.

 

[gibgoaz8]

Grant: Got mine hooked up as per your instructions, but, she still will not crank. Starter spins her fine but she will not crank. Coil is good, as I checked it with VICM procedure. I am doing something else wrong or there is some other problem. Getting fuel to carb, but she will not even attempt to crank. What am I doing wrong or do you have any other thing that I could check. Thanks.

 

[Pin_Head]

Do you have a spark?

When the engine turns, it CRANKS.
If the engine cranks, and there is fuel and a spark, it FIRES.
When the engine fires repeatedly, the engine RUNS.

 

[Spike Strip]

In some of the Pirate links, a similar problem turned out to be bad ground and another was bad contacts in dizzy. Assuming you're not getting spark..

Q: This should work for FJ60's also, right ?? Same dizzy as late 2F 40's?

 

[John Smith]

In some of the Pirate links, a similar problem turned out to be bad ground and another was bad contacts in dizzy. Assuming you're not getting spark..

Q: This should work for FJ60's also, right ?? Same dizzy as late 2F 40's?

I can't see any reason why it would not work.