Ignitor Schematic (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I cranked over the motor. Ohms jumped around a good bit, but no continuity reading.

That jumping around indicates its working........
Some meters react different than others........
I basically just use the [audio alert] function on my cheap-ass Fluke, it'll sound off with a (beep) every time the rotor protrusion passes the magnet, even at cranking speeds.......

Soooo.......post up a few pics that you were threatening us with earlier.........
 
you seem to have 2 ballast resistors and you only need one. The one on top of the ignitor is the stock one.
That is a 1975 USA ignitor. It has a ballast resitor for the coil, and a ballast resistor for the ignitor. Later points ignitors did away w/ the ignitor ballast, and just ran the ignitor off straight 12V.
 
I think you don't need ( the one on the fender), I can't see any reason for it.
The the resister on top of the coil you need (it will help the coil).

Just one question the 2 wires going from the igniter to the + and - of the coil were they ever disconnected or their original connection is still as is??

Original still as is. I found an old picture, and the po DID have a tachometer mounted on the steering column, which would explain the resistor mounted on the fender thus the cut red wire would go there, which makes good sense.
 
I think you don't need ( the one on the fender), I can't see any reason for it.
The the resister on top of the coil you need (it will help the coil).
You have a semi-electronic so only one wire from the points to the igniter.
So as far as power hook up , I would say just follow Pin-head's advice.
But you can always check to make sure.
1- BLK/yel ( the one from the starter selonoid ) goes to + termina of the coil.
2- blk/yel (from the ignition switch) goes to ballast resistor (the post with the nut)
The other resistor that mounted on the side of the coil. I am not famliar with. I would say you don't need it?
To complete the wiring one wire from igniter to - terminal of the coil and one wire from the from igniter to the points via the lyyle bolt on the side of the dsitributor.
There might be a grounding wire for the igniter. which you can checked (continuety between the wire and igniter body) means it is just a grounding wire.
The wire from igniter to - terminal of the coil will possibly have a round connector in the end of it. While the one from igniter to the points will possibly have a plug in the middle of it ???.

The wire on the - side of the coil (that has the grren plug) is not needed unless you have a tachometer. I believe that is where it is going, because I can see it spliced to a green wire in the pic.
So you should post pics that will show the connection to that (unkown resistor) and what I belive is a little condeser under the assembly.
And you can measure the resistance across those 2 resistors and post them .
Just one question the 2 wires going from the igniter to the + and - of the coil were they ever disconnected or their original connection is still as is??

Here is the proper hook up and a pic of the dizzy.
Thanks again.
new coil hook up.jpg
dizzy shot.jpg
 
FWIW, that is not a Denso dissy. And it is not vacuum advance.:frown:
I know. It is a mallory. And thanks for the vacuum advance. My mechanic buddy is in a tizzy saying we are going to have to run a line...
 
If the distributor wire is the same red wire that goes to the coil, then the ignitor is bypassed and is not working. It is just a regular points type ignition with the ignitor just for show.
 
If the distributor wire is the same red wire that goes to the coil, then the ignitor is bypassed and is not working. It is just a regular points type ignition with the ignitor just for show.

That is great info. And it is the same color.
Thanks again.
 
If the distributor wire is the same red wire that goes to the coil, then the ignitor is bypassed and is not working. It is just a regular points type ignition with the ignitor just for show.

Truck runs great at about 17ish " of vacuum. Wondering if the configuration I have would need the computer, and the vsv box with the 2 green plugs(emissions stuff).

the po had the cannister, and the box, and the computer all hooked up. Seems to be fine w/o the aforementioned components.
 
Truck runs great at about 17ish " of vacuum. Wondering if the configuration I have would need the computer, and the vsv box with the 2 green plugs(emissions stuff).

the po had the cannister, and the box, and the computer all hooked up. Seems to be fine w/o the aforementioned components.

Start a new thread w/ pics of the current vac hose, canister routing.
 
To all that helped me: I found my problem. There are some dumb people in this world, but I rank at the top. Worked for 3 weeks trying to get her to run and nothing. Finally, I waited a day or so and said that I would go out and look her over one more time. In looking, I found that I had the plug going from the ignitor to the distributor hooked up wrong. Switched it around and she purrs like a kitten. Now I am ready to move on to another project on my cruiser. Thanks to all. IH8Mud is great.
 
Glad you got her going!
cruiserforcecopy.jpg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom