FJ40 Stock Steering shafts revisited (1 Viewer)

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Dec 10, 2003
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Thought this would be the best time to chronicle the 73-83 steering shafts for the 40 series. I am building a truck and one of these is about to be mounted into a steering tube. The first pic is the full range of shafts. From the top to the bottom:
~Shaft for 40 series with factory power steering 1/79-8/80
~Shaft for manual steering 40 series 9/72-8/80
~"Short" steering stub for a factory power steering unit 8/80-9/83
~"Long" steering stub for a manual steering 8/80-9/83
~Collapsible steering shaft for either power steering truck or manual steering truck

More to come.....
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Steering shaft lengths...

The next post is my attempt to show the difference in length between the shafts. Note that the difference in length is consistent between the manual and PS shafts for both the 73-80 and the 81-83(or so) vintages. This difference is 30MM. The second pic shows the measurement. This was achieved by squaring the shafts with a framing square, marking the the ends and measuring the difference. The two sets of shafts are different by the same amount.

It has been thrown about that the shafts are different by 1.25". Although this is close to 30MM, it is not 30MM. 30MM is 1.1811"...just want to be clear. Steering is serious business and this is a serious forum.
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Shaft diameter

This post takes a look at the shaft diameter. First off, the diameters are the same for the 73-80 shafts, regardless if manual or PS. This diameter changes with the late model shafts. The late model main shaft is actually two pieces (please see first post). The shafts are designed to collapse within one another and the profile is sort of rectangular with rounded sides. More on this later...

The stubs, however are round stock and diameters can be compared to the earlier shafts

First pic is the early shaft example. Second pic is the stub (PS and manual stubs are same diameter). As indicated the difference is 3MM.
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Late model steering shaft

The late model steering shaft was designed to collapse-a safety feature no doubt. The main shaft will compress within itself and is held in place (prior to a collapse-inducing event) by plastic tabs that are designed to create tension between the two tubes. The pic shows one of the tabs in place and one missing. This particular shaft was mangled when it was disassembled, it looks like the bottom end was slammed against the ground to "pop" the bearing at the key cylinder area. I would guess that the plastic gave way in the process. These plastic tabs are also present at the assembly that joins the steering column tube to the body in the late model trucks. I will post a pic later.....that's all for tonight.

We examine the stubs next time.
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Coolerman-Excellent shot and thanks for the early one piece view.

To answer your question, I will be using a 73-80 tube with the 79-80 PS shaft. To be sure, all tubes from 73-80 are the same length. This makes sense, as the length difference between the PS and manual set-up is incurred at the steering box and not from the firewall to the steering wheel. Great question. I will dive into the tubes next round.
 
Can you post a picture of the last 5 or so inches of the 40 series with factory power steering 1/79-8/80 on the steering box end. Look at the picture of this shaft. I was told this poor machining was just the way the PS shafts are. Is the one you have new?
 
Here's the picture
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what year is the collapsable shaft from?? never seen one in a 40. I've had 79's both PS and nonPS, also an 82 manual and a 80 with PS
 
what year is the collapsable shaft from?? never seen one in a 40. I've had 79's both PS and nonPS, also an 82 manual and a 80 with PS

That shaft is from 1981 FJ40. As mentioned the PS or Manual shafts are the same for 8/80-9/83.
 
Can you post a picture of the last 5 or so inches of the 40 series with factory power steering 1/79-8/80 on the steering box end. Look at the picture of this shaft. I was told this poor machining was just the way the PS shafts are. Is the one you have new?

Take a look at Post#2. Shaft is not new, just replated. I am not sure about poor machining, they all look like that. The shaft just has to be straight (versus "balanced"). Does not spin fast enough to make a difference...
 
Late model shaft end and stub

Here is the interior view of the late model shaft end coupling. It is grooved to accept the "pivot blocks"(pic #2) that are inserted into the coupling. These will rotate on the pin (see picture #2) and I imagine they are designed to create a bending point at the coupling during a worthy impact, though can't say for sure. The stub will, however, compress in the coupling(most likely to absorb energy), as it is not pressed all the way to the top of the coupling during normal operation and should not move in and out during normal operation.

Cant really say that this late model design tightens-up the steering over the one piece shaft.
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H-T disassemble?

Here is the interior view of the late model shaft end coupling. It is grooved to accept the "pivot blocks"(pic #2) that are inserted into the coupling. These will rotate on the pin (see picture #2) and I imagine they are designed to create a bending point at the coupling during a worthy impact, though can't say for sure. The stub will, however, compress in the coupling(most likely to absorb energy), as it is not pressed all the way to the top of the coupling during normal operation and should not move in and out during normal operation.

Cant really say that this late model design tightens-up the steering over the one piece shaft.

OK, pulled my steering column out, popped off the snap ring, and can't separate the stub shaft from the coupler. Even eyeballed the FSM, and the exploded diagram isn't much help. Do you pry the rubber boot out that surrounds the stub shaft and which appears to seal grease into the coupler? Is there some other retainer under the rubber boot? I'm afraid I'll destroy some unobtainium part trying to get that stub shaft out. Thanks for any help!
 
Does the stub slide within the coupler? If not, it could be jammed. You should be able to get some in and out movement from this.

Pry off the boot, most of these parts should still be available. Better yet, check their availability prior to disassembling. The parts that you want are:
COVER, STEERING GEAR DUST 45222‑30030
RING, HOLE SNAP (FOR DUST COVER) 90521‑52003
RING, O (FOR DUST COVER) 90301‑23054

Like $20 or so in total.
 
Thanks, cruiserloser, you're absolutely right, check parts availability first. Yes, the stub slides just fine in the coupler, and I could probably pry the boot out of the coupler too (without destroying it), but I didn't want to chance it. It feels like the boot sits inside a groove in the coupler or has something like a nylon ring that expands into the groove, almost like a snap ring. Anyway, I'll give it a shot. Thanks again, I really appreciate your help!
 
That shaft is from 1981 FJ40. As mentioned the PS or Manual shafts are the same for 8/80-9/83.

:confused:You are saying the long shaft is the same correct? The bottom shorter one is still 30MM shorter with power steering.

I plan on putting power steering on a couple of cruisers. One with stock FJ40 power steering the other with mini truck power steering. Does anyone know if the 30MM holds true for mini truck power steering with the Dorry bracket Georg sells?
 
This should be in the FAQ- I searched for this and somehow did not find it. Good info!
 
Living in the Past -

Yes - the long shaft for the post 8/80 is the same length (power or manual). The real difference between the Power Steering set-up and the Manual steering set-up is realized at the steering box itself. The powersteering box is "longer", thus creating a need for a shaft (either the one piece of the 79-80 trucks or the stub of the post 8/80) that is shorter when compared to the manual set-up. The pedestal to which the box is mounted is exactly in the same place, of the same type and of the same part number for both the power and manual factory set-up.

Without seeing this set-up, my guess is that the bracket that Georg makes accommodates for the differences (primarily the length and mounting angle of the casting) between the mini-truck PS box and the FJ40 Manual set-up.

One last thing- the principal difference between the mini-truck powersteering box and FJ40 powersteering box is in the casting. The guts are interchangeable.

Good luck and keep us posted.
 
Does the stub slide within the coupler? If not, it could be jammed. You should be able to get some in and out movement from this.

Pry off the boot, most of these parts should still be available. Better yet, check their availability prior to disassembling. The parts that you want are:
COVER, STEERING GEAR DUST 45222‑30030
RING, HOLE SNAP (FOR DUST COVER) 90521‑52003
RING, O (FOR DUST COVER) 90301‑23054

Like $20 or so in total.

cruiserloser, you are DA MAN! Not too many of these left, placed order, thanks again!
 

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