Thought i'd give TBI a try on the ole 2f

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badass

badass

10 Year 15 Year
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Hey guys, i figured why not make a thread on this conversion since not so many people have done it. Anyway, i'm installing everything little by little, hoping to get it done in less than a month, only have weekends to work on it cause of school and work. So its gonna be a little slow.

First things first, got a throttle body, wiring harness, and computer from the yard.
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Also got the airbox stuff.
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Map sensor and the ecu module.
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Wiring harness out of a 90??? s10
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Connection to computer
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One is a fuel pump relay and other is ac relay.
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I think this is the reccomended computer.
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Cut this hole in the firewall with some cutting tool
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Temp sender
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Ooooo this is going to be fun.
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Map sensor
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Well that's all i've done so far, i purchased the downey kit, but am already seeing many things that i am going to return because i already got them from the yard. The vss, igniton module, coil, fuel pump and a few other things didn't come in yet cause Jim didn't have them in stock, no biggy. So i didn't have much to work with. Anyway i'll keep updating as i get s*** done, peace:bounce:.
 
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You only have a few weeks to get this done. It better be ready by the crawl or you will have to come in the half ass FJ.

Later,
 
Bodean said:
You only have a few weeks to get this done. It better be ready by the crawl or you will have to come in the half ass FJ.

Later,
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Ya, even if it is ready before the crawl, i'm still going to come with the carb cause i wont have all that s*** water proofed by then and i just wanna go throught some deeper water just one more time:D
 
i'd be interested to hear how much you're into it $$$ wise.
looks like fun.
 
way to go, i read somewhere that it is good to mount all the sensors above the tbi unit. Not sure if thats true.
 
6 MPG in the city :eek:, are you sure everything else is baslined before you do the TBI swap? That is the worst MPG I have ever heard of out of a 2F, are you at sea level? There was talk in the past of TBI 2F's getting 16+MPG, you may be pleasantly surprised. Good luck.
 
I first saw the title of the thread and who wrote it and said "Jesus!"

But what the heck. It's worth a shot. There are some really good people on here with TBI experience that can probably get you through the process. While this is gonna take a lot of patience for everyone I think it can prove that it's not as hard as it looks.

Questions:

What did the Throttle Body come out of?
The ECU has some Land Cruiser writings on it. Does this mean it was already in a LC prior to you getting it? If so who did the programming?
What are your plans for a distributor?
What are you using for a fuel pump and fuel filter?
Did you go with Downeys TBI adapter?
Is Jim sending you the install manual. That is a big help. There is a sheet in there that lists all the wiring and correct locations for the ecu plugs. Your gonna need that.

Pretty sure those two relays would be for fuel pump and the ecu power.

I would also buy a rebuild kit for the TBI and do it now while it's off the cruiser. They are cheap. like 30 bucks from NAPA.

SOme of the parts you have I don't know about. The one below the MAP sensor is one I don't know. Could be spark control.
 
thanks for the questions

Thanks for the questions.
Trollhole said:
I first saw the title of the thread and who wrote it and said "Jesus!"

But what the heck. It's worth a shot. There are some really good people on here with TBI experience that can probably get you through the process. While this is gonna take a lot of patience for everyone I think it can prove that it's not as hard as it looks.

Questions:

What did the Throttle Body come out of? I think it was like a 89 or 90 astrovan with the 4.3 in it.
The ECU has some Land Cruiser writings on it. Does this mean it was already in a LC prior to you getting it? If so who did the programming? No, lets just say i used that as a way of getting 2 for 1 deal at the junk yard;) Jim assured me that with the correct computer and a bit of driving, the truck will drive good, but from what i'm reading, programming seems like it will be a must, but i hope jim is right in this area.
What are your plans for a distributor? i'm doing what jim told me to do, stock.
What are you using for a fuel pump and fuel filter? using the fuel pump that comes with the downey kit, but has yet to arrive. Just a generic fuel filter, does it really matter??
Did you go with Downeys TBI adapter? yes, do you think this is a wise choice or manafre is better?
Is Jim sending you the install manual. That is a big help. There is a sheet in there that lists all the wiring and correct locations for the ecu plugs. Your gonna need that.
yea i got the manual and it does help alot.
Pretty sure those two relays would be for fuel pump and the ecu power.
the pic in the manual shows that the fuel pump relay is a bit wider and calls those two relays "ECU Fuse Holders".
I would also buy a rebuild kit for the TBI and do it now while it's off the cruiser. They are cheap. like 30 bucks from NAPA.
Is it really necessary? What all does it replace? The tbi looks pretty bulletproof and looks like the only thing that could go bad would be the injectors.

SOme of the parts you have I don't know about. The one below the MAP sensor is one I don't know. Could be spark control.
i think its called the ecu module not sure though
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I'll be interested if an astro programming will work. There are certain flags(on/off switches) in the programming for other things your cruiser doesn't have. BUt I don't know how the stock Astro programming has these. I guess you will find out when you start it up and you get your first engine code.

Fuel filter matters. You need one that is designed for a fuel injection system. They are designed to flow more fuel. I bought one from NAPA. I'll see if I can find the part #.

Dunno about MAF's adapter. I used Downey's. I like it. BUt the mounting holes on the bottom were off center. A little grinding fixed it. I'd also spend a little time with a grinding wheel on the inside and get rid of any casting marks. The smoother the better.

I'd buy a rebuild kit. Injectors are important but the fuel regulator is also important. It's cheap insurance and it's easy.

I'd also buy an inline fuel pressure gauge. It can help a lot.
 
thanks for the response
Trollhole said:
I'll be interested if an astro programming will work. There are certain flags(on/off switches) in the programming for other things your cruiser doesn't have. BUt I don't know how the stock Astro programming has these. I guess you will find out when you start it up and you get your first engine code.
Jim's little manual says that the 7747 is the correct computer, and he said it doesn't matter if the computer is from the s10 truck, blazer, or astrovan.
Fuel filter matters. You need one that is designed for a fuel injection system. They are designed to flow more fuel. I bought one from NAPA. I'll see if I can find the part #.
jim sent me one in the kit, i guess this means i need to get rid of the stock one in the engine compartment
Dunno about MAF's adapter. I used Downey's. I like it. BUt the mounting holes on the bottom were off center. A little grinding fixed it. I'd also spend a little time with a grinding wheel on the inside and get rid of any casting marks. The smoother the better.
ya i was going to get rid of the casting marks

I'd buy a rebuild kit. Injectors are important but the fuel regulator is also important. It's cheap insurance and it's easy.
aight if the budget allows it i will

I'd also buy an inline fuel pressure gauge. It can help a lot.
how will this benefit?
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For mounting the O2 sensor in the exhaust, I've seen somebody drill out a spark-plug-non-fouler and weld that in as an O2 bung. The non-foulers are available in the HELP section at Autozone, Advance, ect.
 
Cast

Cast can be welded but it involves preheating correctly and for Iron a carburizing flame is used IIRC not too much 02
Guidelines for Welding Cast Iron | Lincoln Electric

here's a link that could help

I've seen some temp repairs on cast that craked like a spiderweb afterwards but I believe brazing is good and wont heat it to the point that causes cracking

Otherwise take it to a welder unless you are experience with welding or you could go with a header if that is in the future for you

Great Thread!
 
Well here in this pic, could i mount it in either one of these locations?? Is number 1 better or 2??? The arrow is pointing to where the exhaust leak is and why i can't go past that spot, if i have go past it then i will repair it. Also, i was going to drill it and have my buddy weld the bung on, however he's never welded cast, so i'm thinking about taking it to exhaust shop and having them weld it, but i want to know can i atleast drill the hole myself or does that have to be done some special way too? Doesn't seem that it should be this complicated to just mount a o2 sensor.:rolleyes:


Still waiting for all of the other parts to arrive here from Jim.
 
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