Looking at rebuilding my 78 rear wheel cyliners versus replacing them. Have front disks and rear drums. CCOT has a set of rear wheel cylinders for $109 - anyone have any experience with them? Are the cup kits the same for the two rear wheel cylinders?
rear wheel brake cylinders
- Thread starter starman
- Start date
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best if you inspect your wheel cylinders for rust and wear related issues first before ordering rebuild parts. Your wheel cylinders might be beyond repair.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/229294-74-drum-brake-system-tech.html
Hit this puppy, might help.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/229294-74-drum-brake-system-tech.html
Hit this puppy, might help.
I put CCOT wheel cylinders on my 40. Fit perfect, work great. Ned
I purchased a set od CCOT rear wheel cyclinders and had a major problem trying to get a hard brake pedal. I know many others have used these cylinder with no problems, but have also heard of many that ended up with a pedal that took 2 pumps to get a hard pedal. After about a week of bleeding and adjusting, I ended up having to disassemble the wheel cylinders in place on the rig and burp the air out of the seal. O.E.M. cylinders have a metal cap that sits on top of the spring and then the seal. CCOT's only have a spring and a domed rubber cap that ended up traping the air. Thanks to mark @ Marks Offroad, I ended up solving my problem. I purchased these economy cyclinders knowing that I was eventually going to restore the rig. I would have purchased o.e.m. if I knew that I was going to waste a week of my time trouble shooting removing the air from the rear brake cylinders.
Dave
Dave
I bought a couple CCOT cylinders for my 68. The adjusters wouldn't turn too well. Took a LOT of force. Also they weren't as close to the adjuster hole as the stocks were. I went back to OEM and adjustments have been a breeze. Oh, they also sent me brake shoes that didn't fit in the cylinders. The fat side was too fat for the wide opening in the cylinders. Think I'll avoid CCOT for serious components like brakes...just my opinion. 
Hi, This is my first post on here. Glad to be here and I already enjoy the site to get good info.
I've got a 78 fj40 and I just replaced the master cylinder, front calipers, rear wheel cylinders from CCOT and brake pads and shoes as well. I bled the maser cylinder first, then the rest like the manual said and I'm having trouble bleeding the brakes. the front seems to be doing fine, but the rear still has problems. The brake pedal will go to the floor the first time then come up about a 1/4 for the second, third, forth and fifth pump of the pedal. It will hold when I do this, as long as I don't let off the brake pedal, when I let off the pedal, after a while I go to push the pedal down again and back to the same old thing. What could be wrong?
Thanks alot,
Mike
Do a thread search for FJROSS wheel cylinder problems and you will have your answer.
Best
Mark A.
If you exhausted all of your adjustment techniques, you may have air trapped in the top of the ccot wheel cylinders. The ccot are constructed different that oem and only use a rubber domed seal instead of a metal cap and seal. As Mark mentioned, look up a post under my name and I describe how I bled them in place and got a hard pedal. Give me a shout if you need.
Dave
Dave
Hi Dave, I've exhausted my options as far as the adjustment technique goes. What do I need to do the get the air out of the wheel cylinders? I wish I hadn't gone this route now. I'm just tring to fix this FJ up and try to save a little money right now. I'm like you, I plan on doing a good restoration on the truck when I get my own shop to work in.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Mike
Mike, go to the search section and look for the posts by FJROSS (brake problem finally solved) It explains in detail how I disassembled the wheel cylinders in place and burped the air out of the domed part of the wheel cylinder. I'm not sure how to link the post to this thread or I would have. I have to step out to take the little one to swim lessons right know, let me know if you find the post.
Dave
Dave
Well I got my brakes fixed, I'm happy now. FJROSS, I tried something a little differant and it worked. First I adjusted the rear brakes, then I put a little teflon tape around the bleeders to stop any air from bleeding passed the treads, then I got one of those self bleeding tools that you pump up, and got my brother to pump the brakes, I used the pump at the same time, and it worked.
Now that is behind me I am going to start on the lights. I will need to get new light housings for the back and start there. Any suggestions on the light housing. Good place to get them? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Mike
Now that is behind me I am going to start on the lights. I will need to get new light housings for the back and start there. Any suggestions on the light housing. Good place to get them? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Mike
I doubt that the design of CCOT cylinders makes them unusually hard to bleed because this is the way most wheel cylinders are made. If you bleed them with gusto, there is so much turbulence from the fluid swirling inside the cylinder that the bubbles come out no matter what the volume inside the cylinder is. It just isn't a problem if you really bear down on the pedal when you are bleeding. Properly done the fluid will shoot about 3-5 feet before it hits the ground. Self bleeders can allow air to leak back into the cylinder and vacuum and some pressure bleeders do not have the gusto to get the bubbles out. I worked in a shop that averaged about 8-10 brake jobs a day and we only used the 2 person manual bleeding method because it worked 100% of the time and it was faster. Time is money and cars that come back a second time to fix cost money.
One of the problems many people describe, the pedal going to the floor and rising when the pedal is pumped, is not due to air in the cylinders but rather improper adjustment. Bubbles just make the pedal spongy. Some people never adjust them tight enough because they worry about them dragging. Dragging is normal on a properly adjusted drum brake.
One of the problems many people describe, the pedal going to the floor and rising when the pedal is pumped, is not due to air in the cylinders but rather improper adjustment. Bubbles just make the pedal spongy. Some people never adjust them tight enough because they worry about them dragging. Dragging is normal on a properly adjusted drum brake.