I wasn’t planning on doing a write up, but following Coolerman’s suggestion to do so and with posts that a person has to mix and match info together to get an overall idea, I’ll try to order the operation for installing this type of ignition on a vacuum retarded 1973 FJ40 with the standard F engine.
To Install a 60 series ignition into a late model points ignition you will need the following:
A: FJ60 (60 series) distributor
B: igniter
C: coil
D: “dented” side cover
E: Modified Carburetor Base from Mark’s Off-Road (www.marksoffroad.net)
F: Side Cover Gasket
G: Misc. vacuum caps
H: 4’ Vacuum Line
I: Random wire, soldier, heat shrink etc.
J: Timing Light
H: An FSM helps (but do not follow directions for setting timing, use mine)
Now Here We Go:
1. Take out your old ignition
2. TAKE OFF YOUR VALVE COVER. It is impossible to know if you are on the intake or exhaust TDC.
3. Disconnect the ignition power wire from the starter and get a 2 foot jumper of thickish wire and attach one end to the now removed ignition wire on the starter.
4. In neutral AND BATTERY DISCONNECTED FROM THE RIG, tap the wire on the positive of the battery and bump the engine until you get near the TC on the fly wheel. NOT the timing dot.
Suggestion by Degnol (Ed):I would add is that if you remove the #1 spark plug and stick your finger in the hole, then bump the starter with a remote switch(handy little thing) you will know when you are on TDC on the compression cycle as the compression will push yer pinkie out. It took a great leap of faith for me to do that the first time
5. Once close, put the rig in 3rd or 4th and push the passenger wheel forward. This will bump the motor and turn the flywheel. Once the arrow is lined up with the TC; go to your number one rocker arms. IF you can get the slighted wiggle left and right with the two rods, your are at the correct TDC. (thanks D'animal)
6. If you cannot get wiggle out of the rods, do number 5 again.
7. Put the rig in neutral and use the parking brake.
8. Install the new dented side cover. (some clearanceing may be needed towards the inner rear oil shield)
9. Now take your distributor and point the distributor rotor to the number one spark plug position.
10. Look down into the distributor opening. Grab a long flat head screwdriver. Hold the distributor next to the hole in the position it will physically sit in the hole lined up with the lock nut. Turn the oil pump to match the angle of the bottom of the distributor.
11. Now turn the rotor 10 to 15 degrees clockwise: NOT THE ENTIRE DISTRIBUTOR. (This is because as the distributor enters the hole, the teeth will grab and turn in counter clockwise. It goes down the shaft turning counterclockwise and you want it to point back to the number one plug once it sits flat.
12. This may take a few tries to line up the bottom of the distributor, the oil pump, and get it to the number one plug.
13. IT MUST SIT FLAT AGAINST THE MOUNTING AREA. There should be no space between the bottom ledge of the distributor and the luck nut once it is tight. If space, the oil pump will not be engaged.
Now a Brake and a look at the Carburetor . . .
Since my carburetor on my 73 has the opposite vacuum pressure that is needed for the 60 series distributor, Mark, from Mark's Off Road (www.marksoffroad.net), has a great cure. He modifies the stock carburetor base to accept the vacuum from the distributor.
The stock vacuum line on the carburetor base gets capped off and the new port goes to both of the ports on the distributor.
If you do not do this and leave both ports on the distributor plugged, your engine will run rich. Keep them plugged to set initial timing. If you do not have the modified carburetor base from Mark, cap the inner port on the distributor and run your stock vacuum line to the outer port. This will work for lower elevations and you might need to adjust the idle speed for higher if you don't modify your base or swap the outside distributor port to the inner and vise versa.
When you can, MODIFY your carburetor base. Contact Mark at Mark’s Offroad, send him your carburetor base and he will port it. When you get it back. Plug the base's stock vacuum port (faces fender) and run new vacuum hose from the new port to the distributor. Get yourself a "T" splitter for vacuum lines and connect both ports on the distributor to the single carburetor’s vacuum hose that is now on your carburetor base (remember to cap the old port on the carburetor base).
Back to Electrical . . .
14. Take off your factory coil and mount the new igniter/coil combo in its location. You will need to cut out the ends of one of the mounting holes to make it attach.
15. Pull out your soldier and crimpers and cut the wires to the new distributor in half. Grab wire the same gage as the igniter wires. Since the wire between the coil and distributor is not long enough, you will need to splice in new wire to make it long enough to fit.
16. Take your existing coil wire and install it into the brown wire coming off the igniter. Read from Coolerman’s: Installing a FJ60 Distributor http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/5F.htm if you need more help.
17. If you have a tach, you can install it on the negative of the coil or use the yellow wire off of the igniter.
18. It is also a good idea to make a good ground on the igniter and distributor by using existing or make new ground wires and attach to both mounting surfaces.
25. Now it is time to put back on the valve cover.
Time to hear a new engine . . .
19. Start it up. It should turn over right away (although not running perfectly)
20. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE OIL PRESSURE. If not, you do not have the distributor engaged to the oil pump and start 5-9 again.
21. Grab a timing gun. Connect it per directions for timing gun.
22. Point it at the inspection opening on the flywheel. You want to set the timing with the ball about dead in the middle of the lower edge of the timing window. (follow normal rules for setting timing: disconnect the vacuum lines at the distributor and plug them with a golf T or a pen) It brought my RPMs from 470 to about 700ish, just where I like it. Good power and no lug starting off the line with 35s and the stock 3 speed. Good times.
WORD ON 22: If you have not modified your carburetor base from Mark’s Off-Road, you need to set the timing with the timing ball dead on the timing marker. You can run like this, but you are missing out on another 50% more go power
I don’t think pictures are necessary. Many people have them. Start at Coolerman’s Web Site and go from there.
To Install a 60 series ignition into a late model points ignition you will need the following:
A: FJ60 (60 series) distributor
B: igniter
C: coil
D: “dented” side cover
E: Modified Carburetor Base from Mark’s Off-Road (www.marksoffroad.net)
F: Side Cover Gasket
G: Misc. vacuum caps
H: 4’ Vacuum Line
I: Random wire, soldier, heat shrink etc.
J: Timing Light
H: An FSM helps (but do not follow directions for setting timing, use mine)
Now Here We Go:
1. Take out your old ignition
2. TAKE OFF YOUR VALVE COVER. It is impossible to know if you are on the intake or exhaust TDC.
3. Disconnect the ignition power wire from the starter and get a 2 foot jumper of thickish wire and attach one end to the now removed ignition wire on the starter.
4. In neutral AND BATTERY DISCONNECTED FROM THE RIG, tap the wire on the positive of the battery and bump the engine until you get near the TC on the fly wheel. NOT the timing dot.
Suggestion by Degnol (Ed):I would add is that if you remove the #1 spark plug and stick your finger in the hole, then bump the starter with a remote switch(handy little thing) you will know when you are on TDC on the compression cycle as the compression will push yer pinkie out. It took a great leap of faith for me to do that the first time
5. Once close, put the rig in 3rd or 4th and push the passenger wheel forward. This will bump the motor and turn the flywheel. Once the arrow is lined up with the TC; go to your number one rocker arms. IF you can get the slighted wiggle left and right with the two rods, your are at the correct TDC. (thanks D'animal)
6. If you cannot get wiggle out of the rods, do number 5 again.
7. Put the rig in neutral and use the parking brake.
8. Install the new dented side cover. (some clearanceing may be needed towards the inner rear oil shield)
9. Now take your distributor and point the distributor rotor to the number one spark plug position.
10. Look down into the distributor opening. Grab a long flat head screwdriver. Hold the distributor next to the hole in the position it will physically sit in the hole lined up with the lock nut. Turn the oil pump to match the angle of the bottom of the distributor.
11. Now turn the rotor 10 to 15 degrees clockwise: NOT THE ENTIRE DISTRIBUTOR. (This is because as the distributor enters the hole, the teeth will grab and turn in counter clockwise. It goes down the shaft turning counterclockwise and you want it to point back to the number one plug once it sits flat.
12. This may take a few tries to line up the bottom of the distributor, the oil pump, and get it to the number one plug.
13. IT MUST SIT FLAT AGAINST THE MOUNTING AREA. There should be no space between the bottom ledge of the distributor and the luck nut once it is tight. If space, the oil pump will not be engaged.
Now a Brake and a look at the Carburetor . . .
Since my carburetor on my 73 has the opposite vacuum pressure that is needed for the 60 series distributor, Mark, from Mark's Off Road (www.marksoffroad.net), has a great cure. He modifies the stock carburetor base to accept the vacuum from the distributor.
The stock vacuum line on the carburetor base gets capped off and the new port goes to both of the ports on the distributor.
If you do not do this and leave both ports on the distributor plugged, your engine will run rich. Keep them plugged to set initial timing. If you do not have the modified carburetor base from Mark, cap the inner port on the distributor and run your stock vacuum line to the outer port. This will work for lower elevations and you might need to adjust the idle speed for higher if you don't modify your base or swap the outside distributor port to the inner and vise versa.
When you can, MODIFY your carburetor base. Contact Mark at Mark’s Offroad, send him your carburetor base and he will port it. When you get it back. Plug the base's stock vacuum port (faces fender) and run new vacuum hose from the new port to the distributor. Get yourself a "T" splitter for vacuum lines and connect both ports on the distributor to the single carburetor’s vacuum hose that is now on your carburetor base (remember to cap the old port on the carburetor base).
Back to Electrical . . .
14. Take off your factory coil and mount the new igniter/coil combo in its location. You will need to cut out the ends of one of the mounting holes to make it attach.
15. Pull out your soldier and crimpers and cut the wires to the new distributor in half. Grab wire the same gage as the igniter wires. Since the wire between the coil and distributor is not long enough, you will need to splice in new wire to make it long enough to fit.
16. Take your existing coil wire and install it into the brown wire coming off the igniter. Read from Coolerman’s: Installing a FJ60 Distributor http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/5F.htm if you need more help.
17. If you have a tach, you can install it on the negative of the coil or use the yellow wire off of the igniter.
18. It is also a good idea to make a good ground on the igniter and distributor by using existing or make new ground wires and attach to both mounting surfaces.
25. Now it is time to put back on the valve cover.
Time to hear a new engine . . .
19. Start it up. It should turn over right away (although not running perfectly)
20. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE OIL PRESSURE. If not, you do not have the distributor engaged to the oil pump and start 5-9 again.
21. Grab a timing gun. Connect it per directions for timing gun.
22. Point it at the inspection opening on the flywheel. You want to set the timing with the ball about dead in the middle of the lower edge of the timing window. (follow normal rules for setting timing: disconnect the vacuum lines at the distributor and plug them with a golf T or a pen) It brought my RPMs from 470 to about 700ish, just where I like it. Good power and no lug starting off the line with 35s and the stock 3 speed. Good times.
WORD ON 22: If you have not modified your carburetor base from Mark’s Off-Road, you need to set the timing with the timing ball dead on the timing marker. You can run like this, but you are missing out on another 50% more go power
I don’t think pictures are necessary. Many people have them. Start at Coolerman’s Web Site and go from there.
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) you will know when you are on TDC on the compression cycle as the compression will push yer pinkie out. It took a great leap of faith for me to do that the first time
