Toyo open country AT for 18's

[CrusrDug]

Toyo open country AT for 18's - pics posted

OK, Americas Tire said the Terra Grappler in a 325/60/18 would not fit well on my stock rim. I'm really just trying to fill the fender well more with a more agressive tire AND a larger sidewall. So I found a TOYO in a 275/70/18 E load rating.

What do you think and does anyone out there run these tires or size?

 

[hoser]

The 275/70-18 is a new size for the Toyo AT. They measure 33.2" and are 11" wide. I think it is a great alternative to the 285/65-18 (33") BFG AT. I say go for it.

 

[CrusrDug]

Here they are

Thought I would post some before and after pics Filled up my fender well and took some bling out of the wheels.

 

[hoser]

Nice improvement! How about a tread shot for those interested.

 

[CrusrDug]

Went on a trip this weekend and the ride is nice.

 

[r3run33]

hey crusrdug how much did the cost and how was the balancing etc no issues? i have not replaced my tires on this one but i had a hard time with my 99 when i put on the bfg ( i think it was just a bad service guy utting them on)

 

[CrusrDug]

$1300 at Les Schwab. No problems that I can tell as they roll really nice.

 

[CrusrDug]

I'm noticing this is a stiff tire. It is E rated and spec is 3640 lbs. Compared to the Toyo 325/60/18 which is D rated and 2995 lbs max.

Does the extra strength increase stiffness that much? I only have 35psi in each one and they are rated at 80psi max. The 325's are 50psi max.

I'm thinking of stuffing the 325's in. Any comments?

 

[subspd]

Try a lower pressure but typically D rides better, from what I understand.

 

[hoser]

Try running 40psi first and then go from there.

 

[CrusrDug]

I want to bring my tires out some from under the fender well. I was considering 1" adapters, but then thought 1.5". Any thoughts on excessive wear going with the 1.5"?

 

[wngrog]

1" should put very little stress on the front.

performancewheels.com (or wheel.com) got me mine in a week for around $130 for 2 of them.

 

[hoser]

I went with 1" wheel adapters in the rear and 1.25" in the front to compensate for the small track width loss when lifting the IFS. If you plan on ever using snow chains, I would go no larger than 1" adapters with your 33's.

 

[CrusrDug]

I went with 1" wheel adapters in the rear and 1.25" in the front to compensate for the small track width loss when lifting the IFS. If you plan on ever using snow chains, I would go no larger than 1" adapters with your 33's.

Hoser- why do you say not to go larger than 1" if I might use snow chains? I was actually thinking about 1.5" to push my wheels out. I don't think the tucked under looks does this rig justice.

 

[Drinkin40s]

All this talk of adapters in the last couple days....is the handling improved significantly?

If I lower my AHC all the way - I might be hitting the fenders with the 1" spacers?

 

[hoser]

How wide of a spacer you can fit depends on the tire size, chain size and how much existing clearance you have around the tire, especially when the suspension is compressed. Putting on spacers not only reduces the clearance at the face of the tire/wheel but the larger the spacer, the more the wheel will rotate in a arc. This reduces the clearance at the firewall and the opposite side (where the washer bottle is). I don't know whether the 1.5" spacers and tire chains will fit or not w/o interference but I suspect they won't. You tell us.

See illustration below (1st pic is like our 100's). Though this is positive vs negative offset wheels, (it would take a 2.5" spacer for our wheels to be negatively offset) you can see the progression.

 

[hoser]

2) The problem with using really wide spacers on IFS has to do with "scrub radius" and "steering axis inclination." The engineers designed the steering with a particular wheel offset in mind. Changing the offset to more negative (wheels sticking out more), can create dodgy steering upon breaking and acceleration, more steering effort and wandering. There is benefit to a wider track but like any mod, it has it's compromises.

I'm not saying 1.5" spacers (increasing the track width by 3") is "really" wide but it is 1.5" off from what the engineers designed the suspension. Stock wheels have a +60mm offset. Using 1.5" spacers put you at a +22mm offset which is still a positive offset.

I will quote this article as they can explain it better than me:

"Steering Axis is an imaginary line through the upper and lower ball joints (pivot joints) on short & long arm suspensions. On strut suspensions, the steering axis passes through the lower ball joint and the upper end of the strut. Steering Axis Inclination is the angle of the inward tilt of the steering axis and is measured in degrees from true vertical. SAI provides good driving and handling characteristics through directional stability and weight projection. Directional Stability is the tendency of a wheel to straighten from a turned position and remain straight. As the wheel is turned, the spindle swings on a downward arc and the weight of the vehicle forces the spindle to return to the highest point in the arc, returning the wheel to a straight ahead position. Weight projection is the projection of the vehicle's weight to a point within the road contact area of the tire. The weight projection point at the road surface is the point where the wheel pivots for turning. SAI is determined by a true plumb line, placed at the center of the wheel at the point of road contact, and the projected line created by the strut or the upper and lower ball joints. The two lines will intersect at a point just below the road surface on most vehicles, but on some front wheel drive vehicles the point of intersection will be just above the road surface. The distance between the projected line and the vertical line at the road surface is called scrub radius. Scrub radius is positive when the projected line is inward of the true vertical line at the road surface and the point of intersection is below the road surface. Positive scrub radius forces the front wheels to toe out when the vehicle is in motion. This is usually found on rear wheel drive vehicles. Negative scrub radius places the projected line outward of the true vertical line and the point of intersection is above the road surface. This forces the front wheels to toe in to provide stability when braking on front wheel drive vehicles. SAI is a directional control angle. The point of intersection is designed by manufacturers to provide a pivot point for the front wheels when cornering. SAI is not adjustable on most vehicles. SAI can be affected by loose, worn or damaged suspension parts or by frame damage. "

 

[SWUtah]

WOW, E rated tires that big must be like driving with solid rubber tires (no give) plus they must weigh a ton. Now if you off set them the stress on the front end will really increase. I know that our 100 series LC's are over built but I wonder what this will do to the service life of the front end. I know that I ran "E" rated tires that were not this big on my Dodge 3500 4x4 Cummins turbo diesel and with that super heavy diesel engine in the front I ran around 45lbs psi of pressure and it still road like a truck

PS- those "E" rated over sized tires should last 150K miles on your LC

 

[CrusrDug]

SWUtah, The E's are harder, but i've gotten used to them. They weigh 52 pounds compared to 41 on the stock Grandtreks.

Hoser, Thanks for the response. Good information.

Drinkin40's, I looked at that before and it is close in low mode. I think the 1.5in adapter would definitely cause the tire to hit if your in low and moving over something that would cause the front end to dip.

I think for now I will go with the 1 in just to be a little cautious.

 

[SALEH]

hoser

i add 1'' in front cuase my tires is deffrent from the rear when i adding the spacer the control is much better and i do a new allinment