Yet Another Hidden Winch Mount Install (2016 Land Cruiser) (1 Viewer)

[CharlieS]

This has been posted before, but I thought I'd try to add to the collective.

This is a Trail Tailor Hidden Winch Mount (HWM) for '16+ Land Cruiser. Trail Tailor calls this 2nd gen.

I debated about which winch to use, and ended up getting a Warn VR Evo 12-S. Mostly for warranty, reputation and parts availability.

I used a Factor 55 fairlead (1-1/2" thick version), and a Factor 55 Flatlink E with rope guard (I don't like the color but got it used for a good price).

Thanks to Jason from Trail Tailor, Eric Sarjeant, Fishinsea and everyone who took the time to post about their install previously.

I'll try to keep the words to a minimum, with lots of pictures, and mentioning tips that I haven't seen documented.

Open the hood and remove the cover (press in the center of the pushpins).

Disconnect the electrical connector to the bumper. Squeeze the sides of the protruding black portion while lifting the white lever.

Disconnect the electrical plugs to the radar and camera.

Disconnect the washer fluid line and cap. I use a cover that came on a Redarc SBI that fits perfectly.

Pop off the outer grille trim with a sturdy trim tool.

 

[CharlieS]

Remove the grille. Not really much to say that hasn't already been said. Remove the three 10mm screws across the top. Fiddle f-around with the clips and hope that it comes off without breakage. Allegedly the lower outside clips pry down and the center one pries up, but I couldn't get them to do anything rational. I also used a pry tool on the lower side mounts, no idea if it helped.

Note that you need to lift the outer mounts over the nub pictured below.

From there I removed the three plastic pushpin clips holding the center of the bumper skin to the horizontal radiator support, remove the three torx (T30?) screws at the wheel well, and the fasteners along the bottom center of the bumper skin. I had to remove the two outer plastic splash shields that surround the recovery points to get to the outer fasteners. Mostly 10mm, one plastic 12mm. Yours may look different, since I have aftermarket skids.

At this point the bumper skin should be ready to come off. One trick here is to note that the top fastener in the wheel well has a plastic nub that you need to pry the bumper skin over (to avoid damaging the mounting point on the bumper skin). I use a trim pry tool here. Sorry for the crappy picture.

 

[CharlieS]

Next remove the bumper skin. It should be self explanatory.

Remove the foam pad, the aluminum bar (17mm) and the frame "horns" (14mm, need a deep well socket).

At this point you're ready to install the HWM. I had mine staged and ready to go on a hydraulic lift table which made it easy to install solo.

Depending upon which winch you chose, you may need to notch the vertical radiator support bracket. I did not have to do this, there was clearance.

Tighten the 8 - 14mm nuts attaching the winch mount.

On to trimming the bumper for the fairlead. Thanks to @Fishinsea for lots of tips here.

Install short bolts in the fairlead mounting holes, threaded side out. Use something that will transfer a mark - I used a paint pen, grease would work too. Now put the bumper skin back on like you would to reinstall it. The paint transfers the location of the mounting holes.

I did some OCD measuring to make sure the holes were spaced evenly from the centerline and located the same distance vertically. It was completely unnecessary...

 

[CharlieS]

Take a drill (I used a step bit) and drill out the marked holes large enough to fit your fairlead mounting bolts.

Bolt your fairlead to the outside of the bumper skin using these holes.

Now take a sliver sharpie (well, my rig is black, so silver worked best, if you have a light color rig, use a dark sharpie) and trace the outline of the fairlead with a strong line (1-2mm ish).

Note that the bottom horizontal line across the fairlead is beyond the bend/return in the bumper. You need to eyeball this line to ensure that the fairlead will fit through the hole.

Remove the fairlead, and use the sharpie line as your cut line. I used a Dremel with a fiber backed cutting wheel on medium high speed to cut the outline, and a medium grit drum to finalize and clean up burrs.

If you are going to use a trim to finish the hole.

Important tip (thanks @Fishinsea) your finished cut line should be to the outside of your marked line. This will give you the ideal amount of clearance.

 

[CharlieS]

Now with your cut line cleaned up, install the trim.

Install your fairlead. Used a longer bolt than supplied with the winch,but yours will depend on your winch and fairlead choice.

Now put the bumper skin back and test for the opening. Mine fit perfectly, but if yours doesn't, take it off and adjust your opening until it fits.

Reinstall the bumper.

Attach your winch hook.

 

[CharlieS]

This next bit is going to be very winch and personal preference dependent.

I opted to install my control box vertically (I saw this on a video at a vendor called Vivid). I made a simple L shaped mount out of aluminum strap. I attached the control box to it, and reused the horn mounting hole and a nutsert that I installed in the radiator support.

I don't love how the horn is situated, but it should be okay for now.

Wire your winch based on the manufacturer instructions.

Reinstall the grille, trim and cover, and you're finished.

One added thought: some people advise cutting a section out of the horizontal radiator support to ease access to the clutch lever. I found that I have plenty of room to access the clutch lever without cutting anything, but I'll watch it and may someday go back and open things up, if it is challenging to access in real world situations.

 

[CharlieS]

One last one, and this is winch specific.

It takes a 6mm and 4mm Allen (and a torque wrench with a 6mm Allen bit when you reinstall).

Taking the control box off the winch.

 

[TeCKis300]

Awesome. Thanks for the detailed installed info. The fairlead cutout is fit to a T... nice tip. Also enjoyed that hydraulic lift table, I have the same and it's helped on so many occasions with heavy lifts.

The Warn VR12S sure fits like a glove.

Interested in any weight impressions. Static weight and any handling impressions after install?

Thanks again for sharing!

 

[Vestal]

Bookmarked. Hugely informative, thanks.

Assuming you added +/- 150lbs, I would be interested to know your approximate net weight gain, too. Anything besides the aluminum bar and frame horns that don't reattach?

 

[Fishinsea]

Bookmarked. Hugely informative, thanks.

Assuming you added +/- 150lbs, I would be interested to know your approximate net weight gain, too. Anything besides the aluminum bar and frame horns that don't reattach?

I used the Smittybily X@) Comp 12k and HWM, I think total weight added was just under 100 pounds.

 

[Scotch]

Great thread, thx!

What susp mods u running? Notice any difference in handling w/ the extra weight?

 

[CharlieS]

The Warn VR-12S Evo is 73.6 lbs. The HWM is 26 lbs. All told about 100 lbs

The aluminum bumper bar is surprisingly heavy. I'll see if I can find a way to measure it. You remove the aluminum bumper support, foam, two frame horns, and six nuts.

I run King 2.5 suspension with 600 lb fronts and OME 2721 rear springs.

I drove it a bunch today and did not notice any change in handling.

 

[CharlieS]

Awesome. Thanks for the detailed installed info. The fairlead cutout is fit to a T... nice tip. Also enjoyed that hydraulic lift table, I have the same and it's helped on so many occasions with heavy lifts.

The Warn VR12S sure fits like a glove.

Interested in any weight impressions. Static weight and any handling impressions after install?

Thanks again for sharing!

I picked it up for swapping and servicing engines, with this and a two post lift, it makes quick work of dropping and installing boxer engines. Sometimes I get annoyed with how much floor space it takes up, but it is a very useful tool. It was the ideal tool for this job, since I could easily position 100lbs and keep it in position while I aligned things and tightened the bolts. It made it an easy one person operation.

 

[RobW0]

Do the VR series Warns come with the rope already on the winch?

 

[CharlieS]

Do the VR series Warns come with the rope already on the winch?

The rope was installed on the one I received. It has instructions for "before first use", pretensioning or something (that I still need to do).

 

[RobW0]

The rope was installed on the one I received. It has instructions for "before first use", pretensioning or something (that I still need to do).

Ok, The Zeon line comes with the rope un-installed. You need to stretch the winch line before the first use. Important to get the first wrap or two seated properly.

 

[21200]

Thanks for this thread and all the detail in it! I plan to install this same plate and winch combo in mine this year... saving this for reference when everything comes in.

 

[CharlieS]

Changed up my winch line loop termination on the recommendation of a i4wdta instructor. Fewer parts == better.