Builds Yajū 野獣 (aka Beast) (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

TRAIL TAILOR

Enabler
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Jun 21, 2011
Threads
233
Messages
21,813
Location
Redding, California
Website
trail-tailor.com
Meet my new build Yajū 野獣 (aka Beast)

1987 FJ60

Custom boxed chassis
HF2A tcase (keeping it AWD)
4.10 gears with Eaton E-Lockers
4340 and 300M axles
4 corner adjustable coilovers
4 corner 4 link
464 OEM beige paint
Custom interior (TBA)
Scheel-Mann seating
Custom consoles
Trail Tailor bumpers – one offs
Trail Tailor sliders (new design)
Trail Tailor skids (new design)
Trail Tailor storage panels and tailgate lid
Trail Tailor roof rack (modular – new design)
Wheels - TBA
Tires - TBA
Aluminum radiator
Billet aluminum AC bezel, vents and gauge cluster
Restomod Air AC/heat system
Baja Design LEDS
ComeUp Winch
Ceramic tint glass
BLACKED OUT
PXL_20221026_184742066.jpg
FB_IMG_1671911956199.jpg
 
Last edited:
Sub’d. This is gonna be good.

Have you done paddle shifters in a rig yet? I can’t recall.
 
Chassis frame getting finished up. Test frame rail is dimensioned, marked and ready to cut and fit. If all is good I will send files to the laser shop for rotary cutting. I have a few of these chassis assy pre-sold already.

Front axle link brackets are ready to go. Link ends for OEM bonded bushes are ready to go.

Deciding on a coilover MFG now for the test chassis. Probably go with 2.5" Fox or Dobinsons with a 10" stroke and a dual rate set up. Looking like a 250/175# start off.

PXL_20241123_173434973.MP.jpg
PXL_20241120_185318548.jpg
PXL_20241120_190343426.jpg
 
Getting the front 4 link design set up. I couldn't get the Fusion 360 software to work right on the design so I went to my old school design methods. They are a little dated but work just fine.

Approx 71.7% (upper to lower arm ratio) 70-80% is ideal. The shorter upper will reduce that "TIP-OVER" feel offroading and keep the arc radius more controlled (tighter).

Fun to play and design this stuff. I really nerd out on it.

Have a 6" up and 10" down travel at designed ride height. Optimal is 5.50" up and 7.75" down Which is well between the stroke range of the build and keeps the pinion angle within 3 degrees through the motion as well.

 
Suspension sounds gnarly (in a good way). What size tire will you run?
 
Going with the Fox Performance series for the R&D chassis. Have 5 other MFGs within .230" of measure between them. Good option for all other end users.

I'm sure there are more, but these are the ones I'd personally install/use.

I'll be running a 12" primary and a 10" tender coil with a 2" preload. 3" ID - 4.10" OD. Preliminary rates 250/180 or 275/200 need to check some more calcs and actual weights.

Jason

1732819086326.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Chassis jig is set. Body mounts and frame supports are all in.

CURRENT JIG MEASURES -- within .053" on all body mounts and .065 of a degree on rails. That should be good for any frame. I know the OEM frames are more than this. Checked against three others in the shop. I cut the frame pictured and made adjustments according to the OEM dimensioned drawings to set this jig up.

I'll get gussets welded in and positioned cooled and recheck everything Monday.

Notching and bending the test frame rails next week.



PXL_20241214_191417341.jpg
 
What grade of steel are you using for the frame? If one really wanted to go next level, one could fabricate it out of 316L stainless steel, the frame would last forever though distortion management during the welding process would be required.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom