Builds Yajū 野獣 (aka Beast)

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Meet my new build Yajū 野獣 (aka Beast)

1987 FJ60

Custom boxed chassis
HF2A tcase (keeping it AWD)
4.10 gears with Eaton E-Lockers
4340 and 300M axles
4 corner adjustable coilovers
4 corner 4 link
464 OEM beige paint
Custom interior (TBA)
Scheel-Mann seating
Custom consoles
Trail Tailor bumpers – one offs
Trail Tailor sliders (new design)
Trail Tailor skids (new design)
Trail Tailor storage panels and tailgate lid
Trail Tailor roof rack (modular – new design)
Wheels - TBA
Tires - TBA
Aluminum radiator
Billet aluminum AC bezel, vents and gauge cluster
Restomod Air AC/heat system
Baja Design LEDS
ComeUp Winch
Ceramic tint glass
BLACKED OUT

 

[clrussell]

Yup I’m in.

 

[klinetime574]

Sub’d. This is gonna be good.

Have you done paddle shifters in a rig yet? I can’t recall.

 

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Chassis frame getting finished up. Test frame rail is dimensioned, marked and ready to cut and fit. If all is good I will send files to the laser shop for rotary cutting. I have a few of these chassis assy pre-sold already.

Front axle link brackets are ready to go. Link ends for OEM bonded bushes are ready to go.

Deciding on a coilover MFG now for the test chassis. Probably go with 2.5" Fox or Dobinsons with a 10" stroke and a dual rate set up. Looking like a 250/175# start off.

 

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Getting the front 4 link design set up. I couldn't get the Fusion 360 software to work right on the design so I went to my old school design methods. They are a little dated but work just fine.

Approx 71.7% (upper to lower arm ratio) 70-80% is ideal. The shorter upper will reduce that "TIP-OVER" feel offroading and keep the arc radius more controlled (tighter).

Fun to play and design this stuff. I really nerd out on it.

Have a 6" up and 10" down travel at designed ride height. Optimal is 5.50" up and 7.75" down Which is well between the stroke range of the build and keeps the pinion angle within 3 degrees through the motion as well.

 

[klinetime574]

Suspension sounds gnarly (in a good way). What size tire will you run?

 

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Suspension sounds gnarly (in a good way). What size tire will you run?

32-34" pending the final height. But plan to keep this one a little lower with all the power.

 

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Going with the Fox Performance series for the R&D chassis. Have 5 other MFGs within .230" of measure between them. Good option for all other end users.

I'm sure there are more, but these are the ones I'd personally install/use.

I'll be running a 12" primary and a 10" tender coil with a 2" preload. 3" ID - 4.10" OD. Preliminary rates 250/180 or 275/200 need to check some more calcs and actual weights.

Jason

 

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Getting the front test axle set up.

 

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Body mount kit is ordered.

 

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Body mount holders for the new chassis are designed and in production.

 

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Got it moved into my personal shop and will start stripping it to the bone and pull the body.

J

 

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Chassis table is welded out, zero'd out and the donor 60 chassis is on.

I'll zero out the donor chassis and start making all the new chassis fixtures starting tomorrow.

 

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60 chassis jig getting closer. Waiting on some M24 bolts and nuts to make the body mount fixtures.

Frame guide supports/stanchions and body mount supports are welded in.

 

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New tank arrived and got the new rear bumper shell cut and bent.

 

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Chassis jig is set. Body mounts and frame supports are all in.

CURRENT JIG MEASURES -- within .053" on all body mounts and .065 of a degree on rails. That should be good for any frame. I know the OEM frames are more than this. Checked against three others in the shop. I cut the frame pictured and made adjustments according to the OEM dimensioned drawings to set this jig up.

I'll get gussets welded in and positioned cooled and recheck everything Monday.

Notching and bending the test frame rails next week.

 

[mongoose2231]

 

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First test frame rail is notched and pre-bent. Will get it dimensioned and tacked up. Then miter back the rise in the front section.

 

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Body mounts are cut, bent and checked.

The test/setup Fox coilovers arrived. Springs should be here in a few days.

 

[DrRock]

What grade of steel are you using for the frame? If one really wanted to go next level, one could fabricate it out of 316L stainless steel, the frame would last forever though distortion management during the welding process would be required.