Xfer Case Rear Output Shaft Stud

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Apr 21, 2003
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Location
Carrollton, TX
My mechanic is looking for a leak on the transfer case and says that a stud is turning freely on the rear output shaft. He says my choices are to replace the rear output shaft and thus the stud or to just drive it with 3 bolts tightened on the driveshaft. I have searched and could not find anything related. This is a Lexus dealership that my brother works at and one of their top mechanics. Anyone with similar experience or advice?
 
Anyone?
 
The studs are not serviced, you will need to replace the output shaft. I would not run around on three bolts.
 
It sounds like your talking about a stud on the transfer flange. If so your tech is correct, they are pressed into the flange and there isn't room it replace them without removing the shaft/rear housing. If studs aren't available a new shaft will be needed.

If the threads are good on the stud, the :hillbilly: fix would be; Put a nut on and snug it up, tack weld the flange on the back of the stud to the output flange then torque the nut and drive.

With the flange design, unfortunately there aren't many options. It makes stud care critical, if the nuts come loose you need a new shaft. I always use anti-seize on the threads and a torque wrench when installing the drive shafts.
 
They were able to fix the threads on the stud and tighten it up so $$$ avoided.

Thanks for the advice.
 
To the top:

I am in the process of rebuilding my xfer case and wanted to replace the output studs. Unfortunately, as Dan stated above, these are non-serviceable parts for the 80 series xfer. So Dan and I started doing some research and were about to find that the FJ60 xfer case studs were serviceable. So we ordered a set of 4.

Perfect match!

Pressed the old ones out and pressed the new ones in. They are the correct length and are 11mm studs which is what the rear ones are. Fronts are 10mm and we have not been able to find an application for those. We are searching though.

Anyway, part number you need for the rear output studs: 90114-11124 (x4) These are from FJ60 xfer cases.

best.
-onur
 
To the top:

I am in the process of rebuilding my xfer case and wanted to replace the output studs. Unfortunately, as Dan stated above, these are non-serviceable parts for the 80 series xfer. So Dan and I started doing some research and were about to find that the FJ60 xfer case studs were serviceable. So we ordered a set of 4.

Perfect match!

Pressed the old ones out and pressed the new ones in. They are the correct length and are 11mm studs which is what the rear ones are. Fronts are 10mm and we have not been able to find an application for those. We are searching though.

Anyway, part number you need for the rear output studs: 90114-11124 (x4) These are from FJ60 xfer cases.

best.
-onur
Hey @Onur - I’m in the same spot - I’ve got a buggered stud that’s spinning and needs to be replaced. I’m installing a part time kit right now so it’s a good time to address is as the rear section of the t-case is off the truck.
That said, I can’t for the life of me see how to get the flange off so I can press out the old and in the new. Any guidance is greatly appreciated!
 
It's more work than you want it to be.

The rear housing / rear nose cone or whatever it's called has to be removed from the xfer case to get the flange off to replace the studs.
Look at instructions for removing the viscous coupler for a how to.

p.s How's the Turbo treating you?
 
Thanks @Tedward - We are way past that point and I'm ready to go deeper... Viscous coupler went the way of the Dodo earlier today! Just need to know what to go after from here.

Untitled by jeff elliott, on Flickr

Turbo is good so far. Now need to be able to chirp 2nd and 3rd gear with that part time kit!
 
My memory is like the Dodo.
Next is to remove more stuff. The oil splash shield thing and then that cover piece behind it and so on.

There is gonna be oil seal you can replace as well. The dirt/rock guard thing I re-used.
 
Last edited:
Peep this @Jeff Elliott

ps any relation to Bill?

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Thank you @Tedward - The SST references scare me a bit - are they required to get the shaft out? How'd you do it without them (if you did)?
 
SST Specialty Service Tool.

In this case the special tool can be anything you want to beat on the shaft.
It's tough to keep it super clean here but I am trying.
I likely used a piece of wood or a dead blow or whatever was handy. Maybe even had a brass drift, proly not though

I do like to refer to any wrench or doo dad I modify, hammer flat or whatever as a
Specialty Service Tool. So much fun
 
Roger @Tedward - I get it... use anything softer than the shaft to pound the $h@t out of it until it comes out.

Looks like I need to get a couple of non-reusable snap rings, dust shields and a seal. Last question - I don't need to pull / replace the bearing - just drive the shaft out, press the studs out, press new ones in and then reinstall the shaft with the new parts above?

Thanks again!
 
I reused the snap rings, dust shields and bearing.
Snap rings can bend/spread too far if one isn't careful with em or pries on them all crazy with 2 screwdrivers.
I think the one dust shield I would've replaced if I had a new one, but it cleaned up nicely.
The bearing is more than likely just fine and dandy and I don't remember if I even removed it.
Onur suggested to me on the phone that the bearing was not likely going to need replacing.
He was right.
This is the thread I found the part number and info about the replacing studs.
So thanks to Tools, CruiserDan and Onur!
 
So Jeff if you get new parts it would be cool to post the name/numbers here.
 
So @Tedward you just pulled the snap rings and drove the shaft out (gently) reusing the bearing, dust shield and seal? If that's the case, all I need are the studs and patience?

Thanks again!!! Owe you a beverage next time I'm in Cleveland and we're sans COVID
 
Thanks to @Tedward I was able to get the shaft out, old studs pressed out and new ones pressed in (and tack welded for extra insurance)! Time will tell if I got the t-case back together successfully. Part number 90105-11H01 worked like a charm!

Untitled by jeff elliott, on Flickr

Untitled by jeff elliott, on Flickr
 
For those using search function:

100 series studs = 80 Seres front t-case studs: 90114-10061
60 series studs = 80 series rear t-case studs: 90114-11124
 

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