Ready to go....
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- Thread starter Lil'John
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Lil' John,
Do you think you'll need one for measurements. I can send one out to you, also. I'd be interested in the alum. ones, just for back up.
Do you think you'll need one for measurements. I can send one out to you, also. I'd be interested in the alum. ones, just for back up.
I'll take some in metal if someone finds it feasible. I've had one break on me. No fun.
Can a 3D printed one survive the abuse? It sees a lot of strain.
Can a 3D printed one survive the abuse? It sees a lot of strain.
Yea, quite a few complex bends and cutouts on those things.
Maybe Jay Leno could make some up for us and do a show for his weekly YouTube broadcast? He loves talking about his 3D printing capabilities for NLA parts.
The doors on a Pig will take the fun right out of it. With the funky strikers, weatherstrip, random obsolete parts, and the rusting from the inside issues...always something.
Maybe Jay Leno could make some up for us and do a show for his weekly YouTube broadcast? He loves talking about his 3D printing capabilities for NLA parts.
The doors on a Pig will take the fun right out of it. With the funky strikers, weatherstrip, random obsolete parts, and the rusting from the inside issues...always something.
Got the plastic piece from Ron. I'll try to scan it using my son's Kinect 3D scanner setup.
I can save it as an STL format which can be imported into Solidworks or any other CAD package. My plan was to scan it and then do some cleaning up in SW.
Damn, I just wish I understood what you two are saying! 
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
If I knew a good "bench" mill with CNC, I would probably buy one out right. My garage doesn't have room for a full size Bridgeport
The biggest issue I've read with the small bench mills is they often are under powered
yeah, no HF mills...and yeah, small= weak.
that ABS filament might hold up for a few years of use- couldn't hurt to try printing a couple to see how durable they might be...
Not much luck with the plastic piece this weekend. I guess it's too small for the Kinect scanner to resolve see all of the features.
Lil' John,
Is this the hump in question, if so please explain your thoughts on sanding it down. How would you mount the handle cover? With the counter sink, not much material there.
Is this the hump in question, if so please explain your thoughts on sanding it down. How would you mount the handle cover? With the counter sink, not much material there.
Fair enough and I really like the idea of the threaded rod or screw, instead of the pressed in pin, that's how I broke one of mine. Which leads to another thought...beefing up that area where the pin goes. It's a very weak area. I'd to know where other's are breaking.
On sanding down the hump, I'll do mine too for fun. Are you thinking all the way flat or leave a little.
On sanding down the hump, I'll do mine too for fun. Are you thinking all the way flat or leave a little.
Looking at another handle, I can't see where you can add any material to the pin area. It's restricted by the handle and the spring, to the size it is.
Here's the other side. The handle hugs the plastic all the way around.
Lil' John,
I'm enjoying the time with this. That spring is tight from side to side. The first picture with the spring shows how tight it is. That would be one hard spring to find, seems to be special made. Might not be an issue as far as strength in that area.
What's the process called, that hardens alum.? maybe we could have that done, if worried.
Edit... Annealing, that's the term.
I'm enjoying the time with this. That spring is tight from side to side. The first picture with the spring shows how tight it is. That would be one hard spring to find, seems to be special made. Might not be an issue as far as strength in that area.
What's the process called, that hardens alum.? maybe we could have that done, if worried.
Edit... Annealing, that's the term.
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Ron,
We typically buy aluminum in the hard state (or temper), that is the t-6 at the end of 6061-T6. Most parts like this would be spec’ed in 6061 T-6 because it’s affordable and suitable for this application, if an upgrade was desired you could use 7075 T-6 and gain some strength. 6262-T9 is also a good material and would work well for these parts but it’s not as common as 6061 or 7075 and cost could be higher depending on availability.
IMHO this part would not require post hardening or normalizing.
Term / Description
T1 / Cooled from an elevated temperature shaping process and naturally aged.
T2 / Cooled from an elevated temperature shaping process cold worked and naturally aged.
T3 / Solution heat-treated cold worked and naturally aged to a substantially.
T4 / Solution heat-treated and naturally aged to a substantially stable condition.
T5 / Cooled from an elevated temperature shaping process and then artificially aged.
T6 / Solution heat-treated and then artificially aged.
T7 / Solution heat-treated and overaged/stabilised.
So, all of these are easy to mill?
Yes, hard aluminum is easier to machine than soft aluminum. Aluminum tends to “gum up” the tooling and this typically is less of an issue with the harder material.
Yes, 6061-T6 machines easily and 5052-H32 bends easily (for sheet metal work).
even if the plastic doesn't last, it will most likely last for most of your pigs life, plus, we will have cad files of it and more can be remade later.
My Opinion... if we can get these made to work like the OEM piece and be done with it, it's worth the cost. Goes along with building heavyduty drive train parts. Will a broken door handle strand you in the wilds..no, but my panties would be in a wad the whole trip.