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LilJohn, Ron. The reason they left it like that was to minimize road noise and add deflextion. If its not attached it wont buckle. I wouldnt weld them to the roof. I would add more support in between and aft. Instead of rod I would have plated the existing supports and add more. I know Ron likes Lizard skin and I cant say YEA OR NAH I never used it but any acoustical barrier would work. I can look at mine tommorow and see how they are attached. I just cant take pics. If you guys are willing I can make additional supports. I know there was an earlier request but not a High demand but I am willing. Let me know.

Thanks Bob.
 
Third picture shows my support welded to the body... for some reason, they look butchered up. Is this what they are supposed to look like stock?

yes, until the late models when they were bolted in, that's how they looked. there's a lot of crappy workmanship when you really tear into them:frown:
 
Does the penny behind a hole for welding really work? My one hole blossomed into about 6:rolleyes: I'd like to weld it up rather than do some BS fix for it.

Do I leave the center support floating as it is now? Or should I glue/weld it to the rear support?

What do I need to use between the supports and the roof? I don't think my temporary folded paper towels are going to work:o

don't know about the penny trick, let me know..i've use a brass hammerhead. anything that won't stick to steel, so ideally a good old penny should work.

i would put some high density foam or something between the roof and bracket...toyota didn't weld them for a reason, so i don't plan on it either...hopefully i'll be correct.

no clue on what to glue up...i've had very poor results gluing anything "up".
 
It was sideways on the rotisserie. That's how I scraped the jute and glue, off too. Just stand through the door window. :) The stuff really is amasing. Totally quites the ringing down, when you thump the roof.
 
It was sideways on the rotisserie. That's how I scraped the jute and glue, off too. Just stand through the door window. :) The stuff really is amasing. Totally quites the ringing down, when you thump the roof.

cheater
;)
 
If you guys are willing I can make additional supports. I know there was an earlier request but not a High demand but I am willing. Let me know.

Thanks Bob.


IIRC, there are several unused captive nuts along the roofline in my '74...I'd be interested in a roof support that I could bolt in to those. 2 or 3 of those actually. As light in weight as possible. Elongated bolt holes so they could be adjusted up or down.
 
I have a rear roof support that you can have and if you are interested. It's still attached to the upper side rails so you would need to grind or cut it off. I also have the front dome light bracket if you wanted to put one in the cargo area. but you'll need to remove the bracket from the front (unusable) front support.

The parts are in the south bay (Campbell) and are yours for the taking. I would prefer not to ship but we could work something out. :cheers:

Paul
 
During my restomod, I bought two factory supports from a parts pig. We added a full one side to side between the two existing supports. The second we cut and placed running front to back between the two rear supports and a point just above the tailgate glass. My roof had a couple of caves that had to be repaired and we wanted to add support and strength.
Another good result was adding a second oem dome light in the rear, a mod others have done.
12-21-2010.webp
 
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Jim,

Did any of the add-on pieces, interfere with the headliner, as far as being put up. If that made any sense at all.

Thanks, Ron
 
No interference at all with the SOR replacement headliner. But you do have to make certain the rear dome light is mounted facing forward so as not to interfere with the headliner rod directly behind the roof support. That's how it's shown in the picture.
 
Lil' John,

On the glue removal, I bought a cheapo Multi Tool, from HF. It moves back and forth, with a sharp scraper blade, on it. Got most of the big stuff off. Used some heat and a putty knife, too. Then went with the heavy duty twisted wire wheel, mounted in a die grinder. High RPM's and it took the rest off. No sliver bullet.
 
I scraped all the glue off I could with a putty knife and the used an orbital sander to remove the rest. It only took a few hours to do the top but over several day as working overhaed is tough on the old arms.
 
Check with Mcmaster-carr, I bet they have it in sheets. They used alot of it at the beer factory, that I worked at.
 

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