wrap/ trac bar (1 Viewer)

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It will probably closely match the arc of the springs, so its possible the shackle won't be necessary. But if it uses only bushings, it will likely twist off the front tabs during articulation...
 
I know this is an old thread, but Im getting ready to start the rear end of my SOA, and have been LOSING SLEEP over the issue of the trac-bar, considering what the BEST option is to do this...
This thread helped so much!


Props to you all!:beer: :beer: :beer:


Chicago
 
see post #4
 
Please tell me what you think of this set-up. Over here in Australia I have had most people tell me that you don't need a shackle, but you guys run one on just about every set-up. will my set-up limit articulation or cause binding?

That setup will not work with flexy springs - I know this for a fact (two pinions). Looking at the number of springs in the pic you post - they might be strong enough to control wrap without a tract bar; however, if they're flexy, the solid mount track bar will act as a pivot point (especially with it so high and not matching spring lines) and the axle wrap will actually bend the springs enough to bind the u-joint at the pinion. Use a ladder or any style that is mounted solid to the axle housing and take the time to run a shackle up front - done deal.

Note: The solid mount bar works great with stronger springs or on a SUA with lift springs - but that's because it's just helping the springs - they're still doing half the work.
 
That setup will not work with flexy springs - I know this for a fact (two pinions). Looking at the number of springs in the pic you post - they might be strong enough to control wrap without a tract bar; however, if they're flexy, the solid mount track bar will act as a pivot point (especially with it so high and not matching spring lines) and the axle wrap will actually bend the springs enough to bind the u-joint at the pinion. Use a ladder or any style that is mounted solid to the axle housing and take the time to run a shackle up front - done deal.

Note: The solid mount bar works great with stronger springs or on a SUA with lift springs - but that's because it's just helping the springs - they're still doing half the work.
That design is still a ladder bar..

But, unless he has designed it to VERY closely match the natural arc of the springs.. It will bind..
 
friend of mine bought one of these, I built one strikingly similar, had busted 2 pinions and numerous u-joints in a few months prior to putting this on, haven't busted either since (close to a year now). You have to mount it exactly where deckers says to... even flexed you can unbolt it and remove or reinstall. No locknut on the heim allows the bar to pivot with flex, the mounting position is engineered to match the leaf springs cycle. As far as the leaf acting as the 3rd piece of triangulation, I believe the diff is fixed (unable to rotate) between the tire contact surface and the top of the trac bar tower and not directly related to or in need of triangulation, but then I did allot of drugs in the 70's and may be having a flashback.
http://www.deckersonline.com/services51832.html
Traction_bar.jpg
 
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Hey,
would you guyz mind taing a look at my "sketch" for traction bar and x member...
Its a ladder bar set up, but my rod end will come off of the BOTTOM tube and attach to the shackle.
My biggest concern is the mounting of the x member...On the 62's. that damn exhaust hangs under the rail and really screws things up as far as ease of mounting tight to bottom of the rig...

Chicago
traction bar0002.jpg
 
I definately want a bolt up x member, for future x fer problems...
For the x member, the idea (in case you cant tell from the diagram which I know is a mess) is to weld 2 in angle iron to the outside of the frame rail as a way to bolt up the x member to it...Ill weld1/4 in plate to the TOP of the x member with holes drilled in it to bolt up to the angel iron...

Hope this makes sense

Please let me know if you all see any major issues with this!

Chicago
 
chicago,

looks good to me, my x-member hangs down 2" under the frame but is pretty much level with the skid plate so i'm not worried about it.

but goin SOA will actually raise it.;) know what i mean?

good drawing, i see you took drafting 101 in school :D
 
having the shackle go up to the cross member might be better than the way you have it drawn. It will depend on the hight of your SOA. You don't want the bar pointed up too much.
 
Damn, you're right - the rear portion is fixed preventing the axle from wrapping - just not as forgiving due to fixed mount to frame. It would work, but would be best to simply add a shackle...

The style I had a problem with is the decker shown in the post above - by being able to pivet at both ends, it allowed the axle to wrap upwards by bending the soft springs....

Glad it worked for others - I'm converting to a solid ladder style with a shackle.

Will post pics in a few weeks - it's a little different and worth discussing.

That design is still a ladder bar..

But, unless he has designed it to VERY closely match the natural arc of the springs.. It will bind..
 
having the shackle go up to the cross member might be better than the way you have it drawn. It will depend on the hight of your SOA. You don't want the bar pointed up too much.

Flyinglow,
Could you expand on this a bit better?
How are you saying that the shackle should go?
I read in this thread, that you want the track bar to be as long and as flat as possible, and for this reason I was concerned about the shackle on the TOP of the x member too, but to be honest, I dont know what else I can do with it...
Could I lay the housing bracket back more, and maybe put the shackle to the back side of the x member to give the track bar some additional lenght and hopefully flatten the track bar out some?

Thanks for the input...

Chicago
 
good drawing, i see you took drafting 101 in school :D[/quote]

Thanks 2 bad,
I have a friend who is a structural engineer that I was talking with on the phone about this issue, who had a hard time vusualizing what I was talking about, so I had to draw a sketch and e mail it to him...

No drafting Hx...
But doing fire sprinklers I have to look at plans a lot and I guess you pick some stuff up.

Kinda funny that I graduated college with a Bachelors of science in NURSING only to get out of it to work in the construction trade....:grinpimp:

Chicago
 
Flyinglow,
Could you expand on this a bit better?
How are you saying that the shackle should go?
I read in this thread, that you want the track bar to be as long and as flat as possible, and for this reason I was concerned about the shackle on the TOP of the x member too, but to be honest, I dont know what else I can do with it...
Could I lay the housing bracket back more, and maybe put the shackle to the back side of the x member to give the track bar some additional lenght and hopefully flatten the track bar out some?

Thanks for the input...

Chicago

Yes, the track bar should be as flat as possible. If it is too steep then you could get wheel hop. You will have to do the SOA first to find out how high you will be. You may have to have the shackle hanging down off the cross member, you have it pictured going up in the top l/h side of your drawing. It will all depend on how much lift and how high the cross member is mounted.

You can do a search on Anti Squat to find out more about handling characteristics that traction bars and link suspensions can create. The subject has been beat to death in many threads, I think it was mentioned in this one too.
 
Yes, the track bar should be as flat as possible. If it is too steep then you could get wheel hop. You will have to do the SOA first to find out how high you will be. You may have to have the shackle hanging down off the cross member, you have it pictured going up in the top l/h side of your drawing. It will all depend on how much lift and how high the cross member is mounted.

You can do a search on Anti Squat to find out more about handling characteristics that traction bars and link suspensions can create. The subject has been beat to death in many threads, I think it was mentioned in this one too.

Yes, this topic was discussed in this thread...
I have not yet started the SOA on the rear yet, but Im trying to think ahead to effectively maximize my time...Im waiting on a wiper seal kit that has halted the reassembley of my front end, so I might at least get my x member built this weekend if that kit doesnt show up today.
The x member is going to hang down below the rig like 2badfj's is...
I have now "feisable" way to get the x member up into the frame rails, at least not without altering the brake lines on the inside of the frame rail...
Thanks for the help.

Chicago
 
here are some pics of my wrap bar. I have only made one trip with it along with a few trips to local spots. It is a night and day difference. The weakest part is the tractor link. It flexes slightly under load.

Specs: 2in x 2in, 1/4in wall on the crossmember and anti-wrap bar
4in x 1/4in thick flat steel brackets
2in x 2in angle iron on the frame
1.5in x 1/4in for the shackles
1 greasable poly bushing


Broken tail light care of "twister" at Barnwell Mountain in Gilmer,Tx.
wrap bar.jpg
wrap bar-cross.jpg
bd.jpg
 

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