Would you save up for a BJ70 or BJ73

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Thanks coldtaco and roscoFJ73. That makes sense, the open air feel and the ability to shoot targets ahead of you.

Hey Beno, did you swap in an auto tranny yourself or did you have someone else do it?
Was it hard? Would you be able to give an estimate on how much that cost if you paid someone?


89GASHOG, thanks for the thoughts, I'll send you the link


FJ73Texas - I'd also love to see Crushers removable top on the BJ70!

1978HJ45, yep the mid wheel base looks pretty nice. Crushers said the BJ74 only came in RHD.
I've read on the forums that you can put in a turbo in a BJ70/BJ73 but you really need to add a transmission cooler if you wan an automatic transmission.
Is all this true?
 
If you are after a auto, think about a JDM BJ74. It will be RHD, but you will at least get the 13bt with a turbo to push the auto. Then you'll wonder why you couldn't have been a bit more patient and held out for a 5spd.:doh:

Unless you need an auto I would grab a 5spd, just to help a bit with power and efficiency with the diesel.

But to get to your original question I would go mid wheel base 73/74 it is nice to have the extra cargo space. I would only go 70 if it was a soft top.
 
I seem to remember Crushers hard top for a 70. I think he cut and rejoined a MWB FRP.
Someone was making them in Australia for the Bundeera but they were not spectacular as far as quality went.
 
To each their own but I've now owned three 70 Series with automatic transmissions, including my current Cruiser, and I wouldn't hesitate to buy another one.
 
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The 73/4 is actually 11.5 inches longer and it is all between the back edge of the door and the rear wheel opening. In my view it is visually better proportioned and you have an additional 20% + in interior cargo space. We have them side-by-side in the museum and the interior in a 70/1 looks tiny compared to a 73/4.
 
I've read on the forums that you can put in a turbo in a BJ70/BJ73 but you really need to add a transmission cooler if you wan an automatic transmission.
Is all this true?

Not entirely. You can turbo the 3B, but do not necessarily need to add transmission cooler for the auto. Maybe less important for us northern folks? If you'll be dong a lot of mountainous driving, it would probably be a good idea. You can also downshift to keep RPMs up and tranny temp lower. I had the temp light illuminate a couple times on me, before I realized that leaving the auto in "D" on steep grades was not a good thing to do.
 
I've added an aux transmission cooler to all of my Cruisers with an automatic transmission. While it may not be entirely necessary it's cheap insurance in my opinion.
 
Thanks NM Frontier. I would drive the vehicle in a city and to my uncles cottage which requires driving on fire roads are just little hills up and down.
I kind of don't might sacrificing power or top speed. My first and only car is a 2013 Dodge Caravan and it's fast enough for me :) lol

Thanks roscoFJ73 for sharing how Crushers did that top.

Hey 1978HJ45, your BJ71 (I know from your personal signature) was the tranny a A440F? How did she drive? Was it hard to do the swap?


cruiserdan, I agree that the proportions look better on a 73/73. I guess I'm just impatient and want a land cruiser now rather than in 15 months when I saved enough.
I'm looking at some nice ones on jdmlandcruisers.com

Thanks 89GASHOG and 1978HJ45 and Beno for the tips!


hmm, good point on the rarity of parts.
Do you or anyone else know of Global Star Limited importers?

They have a lot of those HZJ 73's.
Example:
http://www.gs-limited.com/machineries/used-cars-toyota-land-cruiser-hzj-73-pick-up-lhd--3

The thing is, I have limited funds right now. I know I can save up for a bj73 or hzj73, but it will take minimum a year.
But that BJ70 right now I can afford.

Thanks for the thoughts guys, I'm delighted from all the responses.

Cheers!
 
kevinh,

Save your money and get the best/newest you can afford, trust me you will be glad you did. Saving a few grand more now will be worth way more then buying now and trying to make up for it later.

Diving in to the 7x world should not be taken lightly, do your research, decide what model will best suit your needs before you even start looking at prices. When you find "the one" plan on needing to put in $2k to it right away. There are some nice ones out there but they all need some work, since we talking about rigs that, for you are a minimum of 15 years old for a HZ7x, and even older for those in the USA. Just be ready for the extra cost.

I love my 74, it has been a great learning experience and fun project. I get a big smile every time I fire it up. When I bought it, deep down I knew I should hold out for a 5spd because that was what I really wanted, but I got impatient and pulled the trigger a bit to soon. I scored a killer deal on a great truck but I always have that in the back of my mind that it is just not quite right. I can see now the value in holding out for just the right one and spending a little bit more for it.
 
Great advice NM Frontier. While I like my FJ73...I always had wished I did more research before pulling the trigger. I am slowly getting mine to where I want it to be and may even add a second cruiser to my stable in the future.
 
@kevinh .... "Hey 1978HJ45, your BJ71 (I know from your personal signature) was the tranny a A440F? How did she drive? Was it hard to do the swap?"
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I only owned the BJ71 (13B-T / 5 speed gearbox) for a short period of time. For me it was simply too small.
@NM Frontier (post #33) is giving you some excellent advice. I wish someone like him had given me the same advice when I bought my first 70 Series.
 
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The 73/4 is actually 11.5 inches longer and it is all between the back edge of the door and the rear wheel opening. In my view it is visually better proportioned and you have an additional 20% + in interior cargo space. We have them side-by-side in the museum and the interior in a 70/1 looks tiny compared to a 73/4.

@cruiserdan for clarification, does this mean the actual wheelbase between the front and rear axle is the same between the 70/71 and the 73/74? Hence, the actual drive handling on road should be the same? Then the 11.5 inches is actually the rear cargo space?
 
I see. It is the actual wheelbase between two axles. Thank you for clarification
 
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