Worth the cost? 1/2 tub pre-assembled

[KY Longhunter]

I'm looking at replacing tub from B pillar back.

A new vendor on the scene www.pacolonline.com offers a pre-assembled 1/2 tub for $2850 + $400 shipping = $3250 bones !!! (Holes for hardtop not in rail and rear sill is fabbed to accept amby doors)

Or, I can order pieces separately and tack it together myself for approx. $2100.

If I buy separately I will probably buy rear sill and corner channels from CCOT to fix the ambulance door issue, possibly their quarters as well.

PACOL's quarters come attached to rail but do not have holes for hard top pre-drilled nor side marker lights cut out, plus ugly seam on Qtr Panel that would need to be "worked."

CCOT's quarters have side marker lights, no seam, no fuel neck support but would need to be tacked to my existing rail and new wheel wells.

Any experienced builders out there tell me which is better way to go?

Professional opinions?



I will also add that I'm brand new to welding, but I think a quick learner.

 

[Dieseler]

If you are new at welding I would not recomend piecing a tub together,most of the tub parts are spot welded which is no problem to a novice but seam welding has its challenges.
You don't want to burn holes in a new qaurter panel ,once a hole has opened up unless you know what you are doing it will keepgrowing till you have a mess which you will have to cut out and repatch.
You will save in the long run buying as much assembled as possible,as far as the seam on the tub you mentioned it can be covered up with a filler then painted.

 

[Texx]

I doubt the few hundred dollars you'd save would be worth it....until you come to the fact that there are no holes for the hardtop. Certainly not that big of a deal to make a hole for the marker light, the seam is definitely a downside. I'd probably go with quarters, floor, etc. You're going to need to budget for a nice mig and the time to learn how to use it. Don't think this is going to go fast, it'll take plenty of time to get it right. Additionally, with quarters, you'll need to know body work, as the finished product won't be paint ready. Conundrum, for sure. Neither one of these options is plug and play.

 

[KY Longhunter]

conundrum

I can get the quarters with wheel wells already attached from PASCOL and save me the task of attaching and risking burn thru as DIESELER suggested.

The seam in the quarter panel should be easy to hide, no?

The holes in the rail for hardtop, time consuming but doable.

The holes for side marker lights....how to cut a square hole in the middle of a panel ?

Will the amby doors work with un-worked quarters?

Or better to buy the CCOT corner channels and rear sill to assure they work?

Attaching the quarters to the rear sill should be relatively easy, then comes the bed, still not too hard.

Tell me if I'm wrong....

 

[Dieseler]

Seam easy to cover up Yes
Holes for HT some guys just drillholes through the rail then nut and bolt the side panels down Easy
Side Markers... measure where you want them outline the cut required (use the rubber seal for template)drill a hole in each corner and cut out Easy
With the Pascal they have the rail and post I can't tell from picture if it is a rail cap or the full sqaure channel,this will fit onto your existing sill may have to work the corner if you want the ambies to look right Not Difficult
Are you repalcing the sill ,bed and also the bed supports

 

[KY Longhunter]

Replacing Quarters, Wheel Wells, Rear Sill & Bed.

Dieseler...

I'm replacing both Qtr Panels, wheel wells, rear sill and bed.

I think I might end up buying the following:

PASCOL ~ Quarter Panels / Wheel Wells $730
PASCOL ~ Rear Bed $395

CCOT ~ Rear Sill Complete $380
CCOT ~ Corner Channels $216
CCOT ~ Wheel Well Supports $95

I will attempt at plug welding all together, no butt welds.

This saves me about $1400 compared to buying the 1/2 tub pre-assembled.

I think I can handle it if I put the hardtop on suspended from beam, etc.

Any other ideas, let me have them.

 

[Dieseler]

Keep the tire carrier backing plate from the inside of your old tub you will need this,weld it back in after you have insatlled all your body parts.
Bolt the bottom of the carrier on line up the top bracket and mark the holes and drill them out,line up the inside backing plate install the bolts then just tack weld the plate in place.
You do not need alot of weld just a couple of 1/4" tacks on each side the bolts when tight do all the work to support it.

 

[Gusb]

Dieseler...

I'm replacing both Qtr Panels, wheel wells, rear sill and bed.

I think I might end up buying the following:

PASCOL ~ Quarter Panels / Wheel Wells $730
PASCOL ~ Rear Bed $395

CCOT ~ Rear Sill Complete $380
CCOT ~ Corner Channels $216
CCOT ~ Wheel Well Supports $95

I'm more or less in the same boat but moving much slower. It would be nice to have a few experts here lay out the exact process when it comes to a major assembly like this - the order one should use to disassemble and then get everything back together in a reasonable way. There is some real general sort of info at CCOT but it's real vague - I doubt you get anything better as far as instructions when the panels are purchased.

I'm leaning towards the CCOT complete sill, but I'm still worried about it (trying to get measurements, gauge info, etc.). Still have'nt found a floor for my 78 that matches stock (the 4 rear screws - matching pressed pattern and heat shield brackets, etc.).

I've invested in a Miller 180 and I'm making a few patches and getting into the welding but taking my time evaluating some of these major panel decisions.

Have'nt seen the PASCOL bed but I don't like that vertical seam in the quarter panel. Are your rails toast or could they be saved?

 

[KY Longhunter]

I'm more or less in the same boat but moving much slower. It would be nice to have a few experts here lay out the exact process when it comes to a major assembly like this - the order one should use to disassemble and then get everything back together in a reasonable way. There is some real general sort of info at CCOT but it's real vague - I doubt you get anything better as far as instructions when the panels are purchased.

I'm leaning towards the CCOT complete sill, but I'm still worried about it (trying to get measurements, gauge info, etc.). Still have'nt found a floor for my 78 that matches stock (the 4 rear screws - matching pressed pattern and heat shield brackets, etc.).

I've invested in a Miller 180 and I'm making a few patches and getting into the welding but taking my time evaluating some of these major panel decisions.

Have'nt seen the PASCOL bed but I don't like that vertical seam in the quarter panel. Are your rails toast or could they be saved?

Rails are actually in pretty good shape, but welding all new wheel wells on CCOT quarters sounds pretty daunting to me and would create more welding & body work for me.

That is why I'm opting for the PASCOL quarter panels with wheel wells already attached.

Going this route, I will have to drill holes in the rail and install Rivnuts for the hardtop. Then cut holes in the quarters for the side marker lights.

Dunno but will let you know how I progress....

 

[Dieseler]

Less body work if you get the qaurters with the rails attached.
Gusb did you try Exreme Bends Industries in Canada for that floor bed,probably cheaper with the exchange rate.

 

[Gusb]

Gusb did you try Exreme Bends Industries in Canada for that floor bed,probably cheaper with the exchange rate.

I'm going to give them a call (along with CCOT) and try to get more detailed info on the their floor bed. Thanks Dieseler.

 

[antFJ]

at this point why don't you just get an aluminum tub? prices are almost the same and you get MORE metal and a lot lot less work. If you are gonna say because steel is worth more.. i think ORIGINAL steel is but not this type of replacements. A steel body from CCOT that has all the factory bells and whistles would probably keep value up but it sounds like your just trying to get something that will solve your problems.. be cheap and look good.

go aluminum