Worn hood hinges?

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And here is where the shims sit on the toolpost:

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Nuvver fing - The "centre" can also be used to "centre-bop" the work prior to drilling. (But back in my old "engineering workshop days" the old hands would burst into verbal abuse if they ever caught me doing this.)

Here is a photo of a piece of teflon in the chuck being "centre-bopped". Ya just turn the lathe on and "slam" the "tailstock" into the work (with the "centre" in place in the "tailstock" of course).:

lathe20.webp

Note: - The tailstock is slid along the bed to "slam" it into the work for "centre-bopping" but you can "lock it to the bed" (via a clamping nut) for drilling (where you move the drill forward via the wheel on the tailstock).

Actually, I think even those "old hands" would've allowed me to do it with "plastic" in the chuck.

As far as cutting speeds go, it's a bit like setting gas pressures on an oxy-acetylene set. Some people really "go to town" on being specific on what's required whereas I just say - "Go with what works".

Just remember that softer things like plastics need more speed.

If the metal is smoking and going blue - You're doing something wrong (or perhaps the metal you're trying to drill/turn is hardened or your cutting edge is blunt/chipped?).

Yet another fing:------- Constantly keep alert to methods of eliminating inaccuracy.

For instance - When I made those bushes I made them just 2 at a time. I cut 2 lengths of bronze rod - each a few millimetres longer than the combined-finished-length of 2 bushes. Then I drilled the pilot hole from BOTH sides in each of these lengths (so the holes met roughly in the middle to give a straight-thru pilot hole).

If I had drilled the pilot hole for all 4 bushes from the same end of the same length of rod - the pilot hole would have wandered off-centre by an intolerable amount by the time the drill was forming the hole for the last bush. (If you see what I mean?)

If you've got a lathe and want to try making something - I say "Go for it" (with or without night-classes) but keep all these points in mind.
:hhmm::hhmm:
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lathe20.webp
 
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Just changed the title of this thread to include "& lathe work". This is because I think most cruiser owners who work on their own vehicles would benefit greatly from owning a lathe. And perhaps this thread may be all the encouragement they need to go out and get one. (Those that haven't already done so.)

Don't be put off by fear of mutilating your extremities (like pinning your ring-finger into the lathe bed). I actually think all "trade training" should involve such "life experiences".

I mean - using today's education jargon: You could have a "Unit of Learning" called "Understanding the dangers associated with metalworking". Then the "learning facilitator" (the word "teacher" is obsolete now) could assess each candidate for the desired "learning outcome" by asking him/her to show them their very own "mutilated extremity". If the candidate hasn't got one of those - then they're awarded "NYA". . (For those of you who've never been involved in modern education - "NYA" is abit like a "DNF" (did not finish). NYA means "not yet achieved". The modern education system has no such thing as "failures". In fact, if someone can't achieve a "learning outcome" after repeated attempts then the "learning facilitator" is deemed to be at fault.

Stands to reason that a person who's hacksawed their finger down to the bone will respect a hacksaw. I just think that should be incorporated into "formal training", that's all. Very sensible if you ask me.

Now where was I.............


Oh yeah: These days lathes are much easier to obtain at reasonable prices because asian countries are exporting them in vast quantities.

Think about it -- If you have a lathe - making the tool to align the clutch plate correctly within the pressure-plate (prior to mating an engine to a gearbox or vice versa) is really quick and easy!

Probably the next cruiser job I'll do on my lathe will be to modify my side-mirror arms (I need a larger diameter to suit my new mirrors) or perhaps I'll fix/replace the selector lever pivot on my winch PTO gearbox. One side of that pivot was broken off when I bought it more than 20 years ago and I've always meant to get around to fixing it one day. (But it still works as-is so it has never been high priority.)



:cheers:
 
Thank you for the detailed explanations and pics! You really answered some questions I've always had about lathes. Plus now I know why I can never get a hole drilled straight, Ive been using the wrong tool!
 
So, you wanna make some for everyone else that has noisy hood hinges? I chased a bumping noise coming from the front of my 40 for years until I figured out that it was the hinges.

Later,
 
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Hood hinge

Hi Lostmarbles,

Used to live in NZ back in the 70's. Had a 1970 FJ40. light green was about the only color. If I remember correctly they use to assemble TLC's in Christchurch. I went around the plant on a tour on holidays in the main land circ. 1972?
Put a small block 350 into the NZ cruiser in 1973. I used a TH400 automatic with an Advanced Adapters connection #AA7. Used to run it at Meremere the odd time would do 15.5 for the quarter with the full hardtop on and doors. Never ran it without the top to see if it would be quicker.
I think it is still mobile in NZ and lives somewhere near Taupo.
I just repaired the hinges on my 1980 FJ40 here in Alberta. Just drilled them out to 3/8 and used SS rod for then pins and retained then with 1/8 roll pins. Took less than 30 mins tops.
I relate to your passion for the lathe. I have one, and did serve an apprenticeship as a Fitter/Turner. However I feel you pins are overkill.( grin)
I also agree with your comment about Kiwi's being a very do it yourself people. Has served me well growing up in NZ
Enjoyed your pictures and comments.

Thanks jb

PS.
Just had to pull the 40 out of a snowbank. Was cleaning the yard and went a foot too far and was stuck. We got about 8 inches of snow last night. Had to wait for the son to come home and pull me out with his BJ60. oh the embarrassment.
 
Hi Lostmarbles,

Used to live in NZ back in the 70's. Had a 1970 FJ40. light green was about the only color. If I remember correctly they use to assemble TLC's in Christchurch. I went around the plant on a tour on holidays in the main land circ. 1972?
Put a small block 350 into the NZ cruiser in 1973. I used a TH400 automatic with an Advanced Adapters connection #AA7. Used to run it at Meremere the odd time would do 15.5 for the quarter with the full hardtop on and doors. Never ran it without the top to see if it would be quicker.
I think it is still mobile in NZ and lives somewhere near Taupo.
I just repaired the hinges on my 1980 FJ40 here in Alberta. Just drilled them out to 3/8 and used SS rod for then pins and retained then with 1/8 roll pins. Took less than 30 mins tops.
I relate to your passion for the lathe. I have one, and did serve an apprenticeship as a Fitter/Turner. However I feel you pins are overkill.( grin)
I also agree with your comment about Kiwi's being a very do it yourself people. Has served me well growing up in NZ
Enjoyed your pictures and comments.

Thanks jb

PS.
Just had to pull the 40 out of a snowbank. Was cleaning the yard and went a foot too far and was stuck. We got about 8 inches of snow last night. Had to wait for the son to come home and pull me out with his BJ60. oh the embarrassment.

Howdy jb

I must say I was wondering how you came by your MUD name.

I thought early NZ cruisers were all assembled in Thames rather than Christchurch - but I was obviously wrong there.

I've been to a few drag strips at various times but I can't say I've ever seen a 40 competing. I guess that 350 must have been "a tad" more powerful than my B diesel eh? :D

:cheers:
 
nice work

hinge looks good.

gives me some ideas. like,

Putting the zerk in the end of the pin and drilling passages in the pin
would have been cool.

or use oil-lite bronze bushings. no greasing required.

I was a little luckier than you . The one time I left the chuck key
in the chuck. No physical damage to me but the key got bent pretty good when it hit the lathe bed.

Lucky for me no one saw or heard it.. I bent back into shape with an arbor press. to withing 1 thou. No one has said anything so I must have gotten away with it..
Now when i use the key it never leaves my hand. If i need to free up my hand I turn around and put in its place hanging on the bench..

Lesson learned.. No scars :o
 
Staying on the "key left in the chuck" story, my new drill press chuck key has a spring loaded tip. It cannot be left it the chuck, it pops out as soon as you turn it loose. Very cool invention....
 
Holy hell those things are beautiful....military grade. Are you going to start selling them? If so, put me on the list.
 
Holy hell those things are beautiful....military grade. Are you going to start selling them? If so, put me on the list.

Thanks for the compliment.

But no - I'm not selling them.

I've never got enough time to do what I want just for my own cruiser or around our home - So there's no chance of going into any sort of commercial operation.

I've just finished installing a freestanding oven in our kitchen. Of course I couldn't just remove the old one and replace it with a new one (like a lot of people would). Instead it involved quite a bit of workshop metalwork. I had to fabricate an attractive-looking steel base to hold it in the event of an earthquake (we have big faultlines around here) while at the same time allowing cleaning-access underneath. And I had to create a fireproof area behind it using stainless sheet, alloy flat and stainless screws. Etc.

I tend to turn almost every little job into something that is timeconsuming.

And I've got a rather slow working pace anyway because whenever I concentrate on achieving what I think is a reasonable speed - I make stuff-ups.

:hhmm:And any sort of commercial operation would destroy my enjoyment! "Work" and "pleasure" have always been at opposite ends of the spectrum for me.

:cheers:
 

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