Working with Molex connectors

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

tech_dog

GOLD Star
Joined
Jan 12, 2006
Threads
65
Messages
1,335
Location
San Diego
I'm gearing up to add some stock toyota buttons to control new devices, including my dimmable offroad lighting and some relays that control various new power points in the vehicle.

I've got new stock toyota switches and buttons, but I do not know the best way to wire them up. I'll be using an extra antenna up/down switch, and a rear heater high/low switch.

Do I need to buy proprietary Toyota molex connectors that fit into the back of the buttons, or are there generic connectors I can get somewhere? Either way, how are they specified? I just went to the electronics store and found generic connectors that will work, but they don't lock in properly and I'd prefer that they did.

Also, is wiring the molex connectors as simple as crimping on the pins and shoving them in the holes? Are there any other tricks?

Thanks in advance,

T.
 
Contact Dan @ Am Toy. You would actually need the part number off the plug portion that goes into those switches. He has them written down or memorized for the antenna and rear heater and fog light switches (and others I'm sure). I believe you get the connector and individual wire leads that are about 6-10" IIRC.
 
Contact Dan @ Am Toy. You would actually need the part number off the plug portion that goes into those switches. He has them written down or memorized for the antenna and rear heater and fog light switches (and others I'm sure). I believe you get the connector and individual wire leads that are about 6-10" IIRC.

Thanks. It seems like I'm always bugging CDan for tiny little odds and ends, but it's so much easier than trying to explain things to the local shop.

Dan, if you read this, is this likely to be stocked at my local Toyota dealership? I'll save you the PITA for the $10 sale if I can. Got part numbers handy?

I sometimes think Dan should have his own decals for our rigs, as he's touched most of them in one way or another.
 
...it's so much easier than trying to explain things to the local shop.

Yeah, I gave up long ago, once they refused to accept I didn't have a V6 and that TRD didn't make a supercharger for it, etc., etc. Coolant is just about the ONLY thing I need them for.


...I sometimes think Dan should have his own decals for our rigs, as he's touched most of them in one way or another.

It had better have a big "VISA & MasterCard" logo on it...:rolleyes:
 
If you don't want to bother Dan there is a cross reference in the back of the Wiring Harness Repair Manual that you can download from toyota techdoc for 10.00.

If you find the 5 digit number on the switch I'll be happy to look up the mated plug for you also. Just PM or send me an email with the number.

You'll also want the repair splices as well. The plugs come empty, the splices will have the pins to populate the housing. The WHRM also has this information, I can provide you with this also.

Then you will need to mate the splices either with a molex like connector or a crip type splice. Molex connectors are kind of a pain and you'll need to by a 15.00 crip tool to do it right. The ones Radio Shack sells work ok but you really need to have the right crip tool I can't stress that enough. Yes molex connectors are as simple a crimp and insert but you have to use the right size pin for the wire you're using to get a good crip.
 
Last edited:
I just went to Toyota, and they told me that the only way to get the plugs is to buy an entire wiring harness. The guy at the desk was very nice, but I really wish they got a bit more training.
 
I just went to Toyota, and they told me that the only way to get the plugs is to buy an entire wiring harness. The guy at the desk was very nice, but I really wish they got a bit more training.



Im not sure if its training or trying.
Some guys are afraid or dont want to bother digging in the parts books.
Thats why I will be calling dan for this same thing.
If you happen to get the p/n 's for the plug and pins for the rear fan switch post up.



Thanks,

ken
 
I don't know about the switches you've chosen but I know that the diff lock switch which is supposedly the same as the rear def. switch uses the identical plug to older model Toyota radios. You can get the male as well as the female version of these for installing aftermaket radios/components. Metra, Scosche, etc are the manufacurers of these plugs. Even if they don't fit because of the layout, the pins are probably the same which could be extracted, connected and heat shrinked. This portion wouldn't be easily removable but you could use any molex type connector you choose within about 6" of the switch. That's how I'd do it.

You may find that .110" male and female spade connectors work as well.
 
So is there anyone able to provide part numbers for the molex connectors that fit into the back of these?

84760-60010 - Antenna Switch Assembly
84730-60030 - Heater Switch Assembly

I've still got no joy....

Thanks,

T.
 
T

I just PM'ed ya.

Hey, this is a little different that looking for matching plugs for a harness, but only a little. You'll need to look at your existing hazard and heater plugs on the harness side. They will have a 5 digit number printed in raised plastic. They can be hard to see but they are there. Once you find these you'll have the second half of you part number. The first half will be 90980-XXXXX. Also, this will enable the look up of the factory splice part number.

I think the splices will be female and are PN 82990-12340 but you really need to check out the plugs.


82998-12340
 
OK...

This took a lot longer than it should have, but I finally got there with some help from CDan, Cruiser804, and a few others. The local parts guys didn't seem to have a clue on how to look up the electrical harness parts.

Here's a pix to help the next poor sucker:

switches3.jpg


Note that I'm not sure on the part number for the heater molex. My original was a bit scratched and I was reading the wrong part number to cDan. I ended up getting a used one from cruiserparts, complete with the splices, for a cool $7. This one wasn't scratched and I could read the part number. I know the splice part number shown fits, as I tried them, but I never re-ordered the correct molex by the part number.


The molex connecters are in the range of $6 each, the splices about $5 each, and the swtiches go for about $60 each. The pile of stuff you're looking at cost me somewhere around $200 all said and done. Ouch...

I opted to put the new switches in the stock positions , and I'm using the old switches to control my Lightforces. The heater switch will set the lights to on, off, or on with the brights only. The antenna switch will control bright/dim on the digital dimmer I installed.

This was a bit painfull, but I'm really looking forward to finishing this project tonight.
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom