Working on my Prado 90 Series (1 Viewer)

[BarnacleBOY007]

Hey guys,
So I introduced myself in the beginning of the month after buying a 2000 Prado 90 series. I had made some mistakes in the purchase, and bought something that has a lot more work than I was budgeting to do. But I'm in it now, so gotta go the distance.
When we purchased the unit, we were told the following:
Brakes pull to the right
Aircon isn't working
Minor TLC needed

After driving it 400km (250miles) home, it became apparent it was more than just that.

I'll start with the brakes. We bled the brakes. Fluid was old and very discolored. Sadly this hasn't fixed anything. It still pulls to the right when I brake. All the lines look good, but I'll need to thoroughly inspect them with someone pumping the brakes. The handbrake (E-brake) isn't great either, would need to adjust/replace the cable.

Aircon: Turns out the aircon clutch is completely gone. The compressor would need to be replaced too. I don't suppose anyone here has tried a new compressor + clutch from AliExpress and had success?

Minor TLC we have done:
I took the rear propshaft in for a service. Wasn't too expensive and refitted. That was just for piece of mind.

"Minor TLC" we were not expecting:
I've replaced the power steering rack. That was a tough job. Fortunately I've got a friend who is helping me. I then had to replace the upper control arms and ball joints left and right (I bought the spares then sent it into a suspension company to fit). After having the alignment redone, it still pulls to the right when braking.
The rear main seal is leaking. It's a small leak, and I'm hoping I can just ignore it for the time being. I would like to leave it until I have no choice but to replace it. However, something I wasn't budgeting to do at all!
Major vibration while driving: I don't think it's a suspension anymore, but I have a feeling the engine mountings need to be replaced. No idea how to do this or how long, but I think it's gonna need to be done soon.

All in, I'm happy to be learning as I go. The only sad thing is, what was supposed to be a good deal is costing me a lot more time and money than expected (money is a slight issue). I guess I should have been aware of this when purchasing a 24 year old car.

There has also been some big mistakes while working on the vehicle myself (turns out I'm great at braking things, giving myself more work to do, then repairing it).

 

[little_joe]

Quite the list you have there, but it seems you've adopted a good mindset to work through it all!

As for the brakes pulling, guessing it may be a stuck caliper piston. If it's pulling right, I'd check the left front caliper first - take the wheel off, have someone step on the brake pedal, observe whether the pads are pushed up against the rotor.

Don't forget about the lower ball joints, they are a known weak spot and if one breaks, you're gonna have a helluva repair. Get some new Toyota LBJ's.

Interested in following along, so keep us updated! Especially interested in the air con as I believe my compressor may be on the way out...

 

[BarnacleBOY007]

Don't forget about the lower ball joints, they are a known weak spot and if one breaks, you're gonna have a helluva repair. Get some new Toyota LBJ's.

Interested in following along, so keep us updated! Especially interested in the air con as I believe my compressor may be on the way out...

Thanks for the advice. I'll definitely give that a try this weekend.

As for the lower ball joints, they were done about 2 years ago, so I should still be ok. I hope.

Will definitely keep everyone updated. Unfortunately, I'm not too sure what to do about the aircon. Feels like it's very low on the priority list, too much to do just to get it through roadworthy.

 

[smkymntn]

You have got quite a list for sure. I have a 98 that needed some love. For driveline vibration, is it lifted? if so check rear pinion angle. Remember that 3r gen 4runner parts cross over. Which engine do you have?

 

[BarnacleBOY007]

You have got quite a list for sure. I have a 98 that needed some love. For driveline vibration, is it lifted? if so check rear pinion angle. Remember that 3r gen 4runner parts cross over. Which engine do you have?

I have the 3.0lt KZTE engine.
From what I can tell, the vehicle hasn't been lifted at all.
I'll have to look at the rear pinion and see what is happening. First time I've heard of pinion, so will need to do research on it.
Could there be a problem with the diffs not being centered correctly?

 

[BarnacleBOY007]

So today I received the pipes back from the engineering shop.
This weekend I'll hopefully get the power steering sorted and with no leaks!

Then onto fixing the brakes. I've been given some good on how to inspect them a bit better.

 

[BarnacleBOY007]

Some good news, finally!
I managed to fit the high pressure hose after having it repaired at the engineering shop. I also I also replaced a few washers as well as an o-ring near the power steering pump. I bled the system, and no leaks!!

This weekend I need to go through the brakes again and adjust the handbrake and I'll be ready for roadworthy I think.

There is quite a list of things I want to do, but the highest on it is the roadworthy.

On another note, I've been building my tool stock up.
I got myself a set of spanners that goes up to a 24mm spanner, and I also bought myself a power bar. It makes life so much easier having those few things.

Will update when the brakes are done.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Thanks for the advice. I'll definitely give that a try this weekend.

As for the lower ball joints, they were done about 2 years ago, so I should still be ok. I hope.

Will definitely keep everyone updated. Unfortunately, I'm not too sure what to do about the aircon. Feels like it's very low on the priority list, too much to do just to get it through roadworthy.

Fixing aircon systems is not fun. If your compressor has seized it's likely to have put metal particles into the condenser, meaning that you risk having metal in the system if you don't change the condenser. If it's just the clutch which has failed, it's easy to replace the bearing in the clutch. If the compressor turns over by hand it may well be fine.

If the system has been open or depressurised for any length of time, you will need a new receiver dryer - these are effectively single use items.

People will tell you the AC system 'just needs a top up' but nobody drains their AC deliberately - so they mean the system has failed and leaked.

 

[BarnacleBOY007]

Fixing aircon systems is not fun. If your compressor has seized it's likely to have put metal particles into the condenser, meaning that you risk having metal in the system if you don't change the condenser. If it's just the clutch which has failed, it's easy to replace the bearing in the clutch. If the compressor turns over by hand it may well be fine.

If the system has been open or depressurised for any length of time, you will need a new receiver dryer - these are effectively single use items.

People will tell you the AC system 'just needs a top up' but nobody drains their AC deliberately - so they mean the system has failed and leaked.

Thanks for the advice

The compressor does turn by hand, and for the most part, it seems like there is still gas in the system (according to an AC company). However, there is no clutch plate at all, and even the idler pulley is completely gone

So I could risk it, and try and replace the idler pulley and clutch plate only, or just replace the entire compressor and idler pulley. I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place actually. It really isn't cheap.

 

[BarnacleBOY007]

Alright, so I took the vehicle to a testing station. I asked them if they could take a look at it to see what would fail it in the roadworthy, and then to see if they could assist with the brakes. On paper, the brakes are great! But on the road it is still pulling right. So I've opted to replace the front discs and pads. The quote wasn't the worst. I'll fetch the parts tomorrow and get that done.
I'm also going to do the seal kit on the left caliper and I hope that solves the issue.

I do need some advice though. The steering rack, tie rods, upper control arms and upper ball joints have been replaced. I have noticed though, that when turning, the steering wheel doesn't return to the center position on its own. What could be the cause of that? The lower ball joints were replaced 2 years ago, so I don't think it's that, or may I need to replace them as well? Could there be something I'm missing?

 

[BarnacleBOY007]

Another update!
So yesterday we removed the calipers. The front right disc was warped. So I've replaced the the front discs and pads. We went for a test drive and all seemed great! The vehicle wasn't pulling while we were setting in the pads and discs.

Later on though, I went out with the Prado, and sadly, it started pulling right again, when braking. The last thing I can do now is a repair kit on the calipers. Strip them, and replace the o-rings and seals by the pistons, and maybe lubricate them up to see if that will help. Maybe there's a chance one of the pistons have ceased.

I also noticed that after fixing the leak by the power steering pump, it has moved to the back of the power steering pump

. I honestly feel like there's no winning.

Need to carry on and see how we go. Maybe it won't be a very expensive fix.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Another update!
So yesterday we removed the calipers. The front right disc was warped. So I've replaced the the front discs and pads. We went for a test drive and all seemed great! The vehicle wasn't pulling while we were setting in the pads and discs.

Later on though, I went out with the Prado, and sadly, it started pulling right again, when braking. The last thing I can do now is a repair kit on the calipers. Strip them, and replace the o-rings and seals by the pistons, and maybe lubricate them up to see if that will help. Maybe there's a chance one of the pistons have ceased.

I also noticed that after fixing the leak by the power steering pump, it has moved to the back of the power steering pump

. I honestly feel like there's no winning.

Need to carry on and see how we go. Maybe it won't be a very expensive fix.

If the pistons in the caliper are showing signs of rust, there's a good chance that they have corroded and seized into the bores. You can free them up and see if that helps, but once they rust the problem will recur. It's not the rubber seals that go in the calipers, but the fnish on the pistons. You can replace the pistons and seals/dust shields, but most people just buy replacemet calipers.

The power steering pump is easy to rebuild, you can do it on a kitchen table with a few tools. You just need to be careful and clean. OEN Toyota seal kits are cheap.

 

[BarnacleBOY007]

If the pistons in the caliper are showing signs of rust, there's a good chance that they have corroded and seized into the bores. You can free them up and see if that helps, but once they rust the problem will recur. It's not the rubber seals that go in the calipers, but the fnish on the pistons. You can replace the pistons and seals/dust shields, but most people just buy replacemet calipers.

The power steering pump is easy to rebuild, you can do it on a kitchen table with a few tools. You just need to be careful and clean. OEN Toyota seal kits are cheap.

Thank you for the advice. I don't think I have the money for new calipers, but I agree with you. I was working the pistons on the left caliper to remove the brake pads, and I think it got them moving. So when we went for the first drive it was great! But after sitting for about 2 hours and then going for another drive, the pistons must have seized.

I'm going to get a seal kit, drain the brake fluid, and then look at trying to use 2000grit water paper to clean everything up, and see how that goes. Maybe it will buy me some time to save for new/serviced calipers.

I'm going to get the seal kit for the power steering pump. After I fixed the leak by the banjo bolt, I think it "created" another leak by having pressure in the pump, showing that the seals are deteriorating and need to be replaced.

 

[javelinadave]

This read like every post on a LR Defender forum. Hopefully you turn the corner and get your truck running like it should.

 

[BarnacleBOY007]

This read like every post on a LR Defender forum. Hopefully you turn the corner and get your truck running like it should.

And I was doing my best to avoid the LR stigma by not buying one

 

[javelinadave]

And I was doing my best to avoid the LR stigma by not buying one

I have owned several Defenders, a Disco, a few RR Sports and currently a RR HSE and run NAS-ROW.com . Ironically every time I do something on my Prado I anticipate a leak or something else to fail. So far it has treated me very well.

 

[BarnacleBOY007]

I have owned several Defenders, a Disco, a few RR Sports and currently a RR HSE and run NAS-ROW.com . Ironically every time I do something on my Prado I anticipate a leak or something else to fail. So far it has treated me very well.

My wife's cousin says a LR is one of the best to own. They have their problems (like every car) but you can always find the advice you need to fix it. Indicator turns on the cabin light, google it, you'll find someone found a faulty wire and that sorts the issue out.

Thanks for running your forum. I'm almost certain my wife's cousins have been on that before. They have so many LR on their farm.

 

[BarnacleBOY007]

Another quick update:
I removed the front calipers today. The dust caps basically tore off they are so old. I'm struggling to get the pistons out, so will see if there is an engineering shop with a compressor that doesn't mind pushing them out for me tomorrow. I also need to get the seal kit. I moved the left calipers pistons a bit, and they didn't seem seized, which is weird. But some very dirty brake fluid came out of the caliper, so maybe something is happening behind the pistons.

 

[BarnacleBOY007]

Another update coming!
On Tuesday, I managed to get the pistons out, thanks to a local company who kindly assisted me. They split the calipers and then got the pistons out. I was hoping to avoid splitting the calipers, but it's ok.

I then cleaned everything. The pistons were very dirty, so I used 2000grit water paper and gave them a light sanding. I then reassembled the calipers with all the new seals (including the 2 small seals by the split), and tightened it altogether. I did all of this, then realized that I had put them back together incorrectly. I fitted the backing plate of the left caliper onto the right caliper, so that meant the bleeder was at the bottom, not the top. I had to split the calipers and reassemble again. Fortunately that didn't take long.

Now, everything on the front is back together!

Last night I removed the rear caliper, and today I'm taking off the disc. Going to replace the disc and pads on the rear and service the calipers too. On Saturday I'm hoping to complete everything and bleed the brake line. If I've done everything correctly, we should have a car that doesn't pull right when braking!

I've attached some pictures of the progress.

 

[little_joe]

Great progress! Hopefully this solves the pulling problem, and now you should be confident with the brake system.